Sukiemaxie · Mar 28, 2021

Hello all,
Just some advice if possible please .
I’ve just had my front swivel ball joints changed and it’s much better now regarding no squeaking and feels a lot more positive.
However when driving along it doesn’t feel quite right , it feels like you have to steer it in a straight line all the time (if I’ve described that correctly) if you are turning for example even on a long slow curve when the road straightens back up the steering won’t go back to the centre by itself it wants to hold the turn it is on like it’s on auto pilot and is very different to how I’ve remembered it for the last 7 years ( actually feels like a completely different vehicle that is nowhere near as nice to drive anymore).
My questions are ;

1, is this normal when they have been changed & will it loosen up with use?
2, are they adjustable ( could they have been over tightened) ?
3, could they be faulty or inferior quality parts ?

As always you comments will be very much appreciated and many thanks in advance

cheers

blue beasty · Mar 28, 2021

Too much swivel pin pre-load and yes it's adjustable.

Pawl · Mar 28, 2021

Thats not normal for a D2,something has been installed incorrectly or they weren't good quality parts. I'm not aware of any adjustment on a D2 (there is on a D1 & Defender)

discool · Mar 28, 2021

Pawl said:
Thats not normal for a D2,something has been installed incorrectly or they weren't good quality parts. I'm not aware of any adjustment on a D2 (there is on a D1 & Defender)

Your correct

only Defenders RRc and D1 have the pre-load done adjustment by shims.
D2s have a tension collet, number 12 in the attachment, which accommodates manufacturing tolerances when tightening.

To answer the OPs question for 2 & 3 who knows, but possibly, and 1, very doubtful if a LR genuine part.

Sukiemaxie · Mar 28, 2021

Many thanks for your replies.
Is there a torque figure for the nuts on the upper and lower joints ?

blue beasty · Mar 28, 2021

discool said:
Your correct only Defenders RRc and D1 have the pre-load done adjustment by shims.
D2s have a tension collet, number 12 in the attachment, which accommodates manufacturing tolerances when tightening.

To answer the OPs question for 2 & 3 who knows, but possibly, and 1, very doubtful if a LR genuine part.

Ah....another of those modern 'improvements'

discool · Mar 28, 2021

blue beasty said:
Ah....another of those modern 'improvements'

Yup it appears so, if any issues in that area just replace the ball joints, and now no rusty balls, oil or grease leaks, worn seals, iffy needle bearings etc etc.

discool · Mar 28, 2021

Sukiemaxie said:
Many thanks for your replies.
Is there a torque figure for the nuts on the upper and lower joints ?

I would think so...

Sukiemaxie · Mar 28, 2021

Can i ask where that diagram comes from looks like a handy thing to have if its a manual or download ?

discool · Mar 28, 2021

Sukiemaxie said:
Can i ask where that diagram comes from looks like a handy thing to have if its a manual or download ?

Hi, there’s more than a few links posted in the forums for Discovery II Workshop Manual or just Google

EeEk · Mar 28, 2021

Sukiemaxie said:
Many thanks for your replies.
Is there a torque figure for the nuts on the upper and lower joints ?

There will be but that wont cause the problem as that only attaches the pin of the ball joint it doesnt adjust the tension of the ball joint.
Id assume a ball joint is not fitted correctly or has been damaged during fitting.

Ive driven stuff with the problem you describe and new ball joints usually fix it not cause it.

discool · Mar 28, 2021

Sukiemaxie said:
Many thanks for your replies.
Is there a torque figure for the nuts on the upper and lower joints ?

Ok the torque wrench setting fo Steering knuckle to axle yoke upper ball joint is 119 Nm
Tension collet to steering knuckle is just 5 Nm.

P38-DFX · Mar 28, 2021

Have the tracking checked. If it’s toeing out too much it’ll have somewhat unpredictable handling.

Stanleysteamer · Mar 29, 2021

D2206 said:
Have the tracking checked. If it’s toeing out too much it’ll have somewhat unpredictable handling.

+1^
Provided they were fitted correctly, and it would be difficult to fit them incorrectly it is far more likely to be a tracking problem than anything else.
Don't forget all the steering ball-joints had to be separated and reconnected during this process.
Don't overthink this, take it one step at a time and get the tracking checked first. It is relatively cheap and straight forward, to coin a phrase!

Sukiemaxie · Mar 29, 2021

Many thanks for your replies, I will try to get the tracking check done today if their not too busy.

Sukiemaxie · Mar 29, 2021

I forgot to ask could that tension collet mentioned in an earlier reply have any effect on this at all ?

P38-DFX · Mar 29, 2021

Sukiemaxie said:
I forgot to ask could that tension collet mentioned in an earlier reply have any effect on this at all ?

No, this only sets the height of the hub carrier to centralise the halfshaft within the axle housing. If this hasn't been set correctly the axle will leak oil.

Sukiemaxie · Mar 29, 2021

Nice one thanks very much i wondered what it was for

Hellastony · Mar 29, 2021

Did you by any chance have any other work done, like replacing the steering damper? Because as a rule of thumb anything other than a genuine LR version won't or doesn't self-centre correctly IIRC.
Balljoint replacement alone won't and can't affect the self-centrering aspect of the steering.

Stanleysteamer · Mar 29, 2021

What gives a car self-centering is the caster angle, but sure, a dodgy steering damper could jam up a bit and make this more difficult.

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