I think thats just the picture from my blackberry, nothing wrong with the pins at all, just opened up the timer and again, clean as a whistle. ( Land Rover Zone - AaronLovell's Album: Inside the timer ) I will try a source another timer tomorrow.

"It is possible to manually jumper the connections on the socket - would you be comfortable doing this??" I'll give it a go, in for a penny, in for a pound, as long as you don't mind running through it for me?

Thanks Wills

Aaron

To jumper the socket you need to have a short piece of cable capable of handling a least 10 amps.

Next put on each end a male spade terminal.

You want to jumper pins 2 & 8 together, this little diagram should help - if you have ANY doubts about doing this, don't. Ive done this on ocassions when playing with the EAS system and it will work but you can't run the vehicle like this, you are quite literally just wanting to know what happens when you bypass the timer.

If the fuse blows again when this jumper cable is in place then you know you have a problem further on down.



You may also not be able to communicate with the EAS ECU diagnostically with this installed incase you have got the diagnostic cable through now. Let me know how it goes.

-Wills

Hi Wills,

I have jumped the rely as discussed ( www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/members/aaronlovell-albums-jumped-timer.html ) and put the fuze in and its blown again, so i assume this is now a problem the other side of the timer???

Aaron

ok, so the fuse blows with the timer out and the connections manually jumpered.

In that case I would say we know the EAS delay timer is most likely ok. Is the EAS ECU connector unplugged as well (that big one that you originally unplugged) under the seat.

Does the fuse still blow with that unplugged as well as the delay timer?? (I appreciate you must have a tonne of destroyed fuses by now but keep going!)

IF it does, leave the delay timer unplugged, leave the EAS ECU unplugged and then pop open the bonnet, remove the EAS box cover and then you will need to unplug connector C0871...



Unplug this and then re-try the replacing the fuse.

So, to recap, EAS timer unplugged, EAS ECU unplugged and then the EAS valve block unplugged. Does the fuise still blow, report back with what you find.

-Wills

Hokey dokey, so i know have the timer unplugged, EAS ECU unplugged and the valve block (C0871 in diagram) unplugged, fuze in with no blow. I have replaced the timer and ECU and no blow, would have normally, but the C0871 is still disconnected! Engine running and i no longer have the 35 mph on dash and only the top and bottom ride height lights are on where as before all 4 stayed on.

Re connected C0871 and fuse blew

All three disconnected, no blow
Re connect EAS ECU, no blow
Re connect EAS ECU and timer, no blow
Re connect EAS ECU, timer and C0871, Fuze blows!

So i assume we have now moved passed the timer and the problem is somewhere within the EAS valve block housing?? Also restarted the engine again and now the CO871 is reconnected the fault is back on the dash??

I feel we are making progress, but are we heading to more expensive parts or cheaper parts lol!

Thanks again and where do i go from here?

Aaron

Hi Aaron,

Getting somewhere now

So, we have traced the fault, its past that connector to the valve block.

I would most likely think that the culprit now is the drive pack on the side of the valve block. This thing...



This is actually a separate part of the valve block but is easy enough to change once the valve block is out of the vehicle.

Depending on what you now want to do will decide on how much it's going to cost you. Personally, this is what I would now do - order a new drive pack to go on the side of the valve block (around £150ish) and then at the same time also order a valve block o-ring rebuild kit (around £35).

This will allow you to rebuild the valve block with all new o-rings meaning you should have no worries about leaks from it for a good few years and while your in there you can replace the valve block drive pack. This would be an afternoons work and isn't too difficult, just takes time and careful following of instructions.

Unfortunately the valve block drive pack is a completely sealed unit so you can't even take it apart to try and spot and damaged traces etc.

Let us know what you decide to do and post back if you need anymore help. As far as getting hold of the bits I would get a quote from the LR dealership on the price of a new drive pack - ANR3900 - ask for the Alligeance discount as well and see what they say. For the o-ring rebuild kit there is rover-renovations.com or p38spares.co.uk.

Keep us updated!

Good luck

-Wills

P.S. Forgot to say - if you wanted you could remove the valve block itself from the vehicle and have a look for any damaged wires going into the drive pack on the valve block but I think you will find its a failure of the pack itself inside somewhere. Lastly - when you do remove the entire valve block assembly itself its actually better to remove the entire EAS box from the wing of the vehicle. This will allow you to then take the whole thing inside and spend time carefully dismantling it. While it is out of the vehicle make sure all the EAS lines left hanging in the vehicle and kept protected and ideally covered so as to prevent moisture and grit form getting into any of the bags/dryer and tank.

Thanks for that i'll give it a try and let you know how i get on, this is on Fleabay, is this the O ring kit you were referring too?
Range Rover P38 EAS Air Suspension Pump Compressor seal on eBay, also, Range Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 13-Feb-09 18:10:00 GMT)
I will let you know how i get on and thank you again for all your time and help!!!

Aaron

No, the kit is this one...

-:: P38 Spares - Land Rover and P38 and Range Rover parts, EAS air suspension airbags and diagnostic kickers and faultmate MSV::-

they also carry the valve block driver assembly as well...

-:: P38 Spares - Land Rover and P38 and Range Rover parts, EAS air suspension airbags and diagnostic kickers and faultmate MSV::-

-Wills

Phew, well done for sticking with this one Wills
cannae wait for the next instalment !
Aaron - if you are interested I have an unopened O ring kit sitting in a drawer here if you want it cheap,
PM me if you do






reading through all this just confirms how right I was to go down the coil spring route last year, eh Wills ?

v8kenny said:

reading through all this just confirms how right I was to go down the coil spring route last year, eh Wills ?

Click to expand...

I think all this just confirms that the EAS system is simple enough to deal with with time and patience

Still can't believe you castrated your P38!

Sure you won't go back to EAS ever??

-Wills

wills said:

Sure you won't go back to EAS ever??

-Wills

Click to expand...

Sorry pal, aint ever going to happen - as you know I spent ages looking for the right conversion and I can't believe how well my rangie handles now
Hows tricks anyway ? - not been on here much lately

v8kenny said:

Sorry pal, aint ever going to happen - as you know I spent ages looking for the right conversion and I can't believe how well my rangie handles now
Hows tricks anyway ? - not been on here much lately

Click to expand...

All ok down here - was up your way recently and didn't see one P38, are you the only person in Scotland with one??

Still have one of your valve blocks I bought from you, was useful as spares the other day when I finally re-built my own valve block and found the diaphragm well and truly shagged which would explain some of the EAS problems I had been having of late. Got it rebuilt just in time before all the snow came along!

-Wills

wills said:

All ok down here - was up your way recently and didn't see one P38, are you the only person in Scotland with one??

Still have one of your valve blocks I bought from you, was useful as spares the other day when I finally re-built my own valve block and found the diaphragm well and truly shagged which would explain some of the EAS problems I had been having of late. Got it rebuilt just in time before all the snow came along!

-Wills

Click to expand...

Are you kidding ? - there's loads of them up here - in fact I would get rid of mine if I didn't like it so much......................common as muck !
You are lucky you have had some snow - we ain't had any (yet)
Glad all the bits you got are going to good use - give me a shout next time you are up this way and I'll give you a shot of one that handles properly

So, i'm just waiting for the drive pack and valve block o-ring rebuild kit (V8Kenny) to arrive, then i'll let you know how i get on, but thanks Wills and V8Kenny for your help so far, really been appreciated.

Aaron

Cool stuff, just so you know in advance, when re-building the valve block, see the instructions here...

Range Rover Air Suspension repair, advice and troubleshooting by Rover Renovations.

You will also need a little bottle of loctite so you can do the bolts which require them and also a small tub of Vaseline from somewhere like Boots to lightly grease the o-rings which need it upon re-assembly.

Lastly, you are in a bit of a sticky situation due to the fact your P38 is stuck at maximum height. You will be unable to use the pigtails in the instructions above to deflate so the system.

You will need to take EXTREME CAUTION when disconnecting the air lines from the valve block as the tank will still probably be full of compressed air and the airbags on each corner will also be full of compressed air too.

When disconnecting the air lines in this state I would push down on the collar and carefully pull the air lines out just a fraction until you hear the sound of air leaking and then let it leak out until you can't hear any more air escaping. The line with the purple label thing on it is the air tank, the 4 lines that are grouped close together are the actual airbags themselves. They should have red green and blue labels on them with one having none at all. These are the lines that will have the pressure in them so you will want to be very careful when removing them from the block.

Good luck and any questions just ask!

-Wills

Kit on its way Aaron, Wills will keep you right !

Good man Kenny, i gotta say, its a shame i don't know more people with Land Rovers, i'm telling everyone about how gooda site this is but it's of no help to any of them!!

Quick update, my diagnostic cable/fault code reader was not communicating with the EAS so took it to an indipendant landy specialist up the road from me and their one does not want to chat with it either, will communicate with the other functions, seats etc but not the suspension.... Taking it back to them tomorrow for them to investigate further.

Any thoughts?

Aaron

The timer needs to be plugged in, the EAS ECU needs to be in and the valve block needs to be plugged in - are all these all in and tight??

The connection to the valve block can be difficult, make sure its fully home and clicked in.

Are all these connections in place and ok??

I take it the EAS fuse is no longer blowing now the new drive pack is in??

-Wills

Hi Wills,

I'm still waiting for the eas pack to arrive so yes the fuze is still blown, i wanted to see if anything else was at fault while i was waiting for it to arrive, everything is fitted back correctly but will the reader not comunicate with the system with the fuze blown then?

Aaron