A

AaronLovell

New Member
Hi there people,

I'm new to the site and Range Rovers but i'm sure you guys can help.

I've got a 2.5 DHSE and it's currently stuck at the max ride hight, all 4 of the lights are on, plus the one on the dashboard to show it's in the highest ride height, the warning is also on telling me not to exceed 35 mph. I have opened up the fuze box in the engine bay and the 10amp fuze had blown but as soon as i try to put a new one in that blows immediately, gone through 3 fuzes just to make sure!

I have read a few threads and most seem to say if the 35mph warning comes on the suspension usually drops to the lowest setting or at least thats how i read it??:confused: Also most of the threads seem to be about them getting stuck in the lowest not the highest!!

Hopefully someone can help me!!

Aaron
 
Ok so i've now read a whole heap of threads and articles on suspension and it still appears to me that whilst this is an extremly common problem, everyone else finds their suspension drop to the lowest setting and as i said mine is stuck in the highest.

Can't find out anything about blowing the 10amp fuze imediatly as its changed tho!?!?

Just ordered the EAS Diagnostic cable and downloaded the software so we'll see what that brings up, otherwise if i don't hear anything other than in the threads on here i'll have to get her to the garage!

Aaron
 
ok - first things first, the 35mph message indicates a hard fault. Without the diagnostic cable and software you get rid of this.

Next, which fuse is it that has blown in the engine bay?? F29 or F35??

Lastly, what year P38 is it??

Give some more info and Im sure you will get some help!

-Wills :)
 
Hi Wills,

Thanks for getting back to me. It's fuze F29 and literaly i could go outside now, try and put a new one in and the second the two male bits on the fuze touch the two female bits on the board it will blow!

It's a V reg 2000 2.5 (BMW engine) DHSE.

Anything more you need just let me know.

Aaron
 
I agree, you must have a short somewhere, however, it may be a bit difficult to trace.

First things first, as it's in fault mode you can play about a bit and not worry too much about putting it into fault.

F29 is a direct feed to the EAS Delay timer under the passenger seat. I would first of all remove the bottom cover thing from round the passenger seat and with the ignition OFF pull out the delay timer.

If you then go and replace F29 what happens then?? If it doesnt blow the wiring is probably ok up until the timer and you will need to go from there.

Post back with what you find :)

-Wills :)
 
Just been out and the SRS light is now staying on and there is an Airbag error message on the dash before the 35mph warning comes on, plus the stereo controlls stopped working, but not the ones on the steering wheel!!!!!! Re the short circuit, I'll get a mate to do that, i'm not a total idiot, but i'm getting there Ha Ha!:mad:
 
Hi there, got to the cover off and can see the EAS Delay timer under the seat but cant see how to disconect it, any hints for me?

Dont worry done it now as i said before a bit of a novice with these things, just flying out to get some more 10 amp's, i'll let yuo know how i get on!
 
Last edited:
Disconnected the EAS Delay timer under the passenger seat and nothing happened, put the fuze back in and it blew again immediatly, tried it with 2 fuzes! does this help you at all guys?

I assume that would mean it a problem after the timer????
 
ok, to be super clear - if you put the fuse in with the EAS delay timer REMOVED (so you just had the empty socket where it sits) then you have a short.

The short could be at the socket where the delay timer plugs in. Look for the purple and red wire which goes to the socket. Trace the wire to the correct pin on the socket, is there any corrosion on that pin of the socket, has the socket become damaged with one pin touching another??

If the plug looks fine then it would be wise to pop off the plastic door sill finisher bit and just check that the channel the wiring runs along isn't full of water from a leak or something. I would of thought you would of had other problems though if this was the case.

Check all around the engine bay at the wiring looms, check there is no damage to any of them, no rubbing or cables against anything sharp causing a short or something.

Lastly, the engine fusebox - open it up and get your nose in there, does it smell burnt in there at all?? I would disconnect the battery and have each and every relay out to check for corrosion or burnt terminals.

Looking at the ETM this is what is shown...

eas-cd1.jpg


The red box is the bit we are interested in - as you can it's one single wire from the fusebox to the delay timer socket, no breaks/plugs etc. My guess would be you have something funny going on within the engine fusebox, especially if you now have other funny electrical symptoms like the SRS fault.

Let us know what you find upon closer inspection of the engine fusebox.

Good luck

-Wills :)
 
Hi Wills,

Yes thats correct, if i put the fuse in with the EAS delay timer REMOVED (so i just have the empty socket where it sits) then i have a short.

Thank you so much for that, i'll have a good check tomorrow and get back to you. Did have quick check of the Fusebox and looked ok, but as you sugest i will disconnect the battery and have a proper and thorough check.

Thanks again.

Aaron
 
Here we go.... So i've checked the delay timer plugs and as much of the wireing as i can trace from the interior to the Fuse box and all looks in perfect order with no signs of wear, had a good sniff and nothing burny or elicrticaly smelling in the fuse box, i Have disconnected the battery and pulled all the fuses and relays, again spotless except for some discolouration of the BIG fuses, sort of a bluey greeny almost coppery colour, see pics.

Couldn't work out how to put the pics in the thread so i made a picture file not the best pics as they were taken on my phone but thought they may be of help re the fuse colour. Land Rover Zone - AaronLovell's Album: Aaron Lovell Fusebox and EAS pictures

Whilst the battery was off i replaced the 10amp fuse again and it blew as soon as i reconnected the battery lol! Oh and now its telling me my windows and sunroof are not set, what on earth does that mean??????

Let me know what you think

Aaron
 
And ignore the bit about my windows not being set, found it and sorted it from another thread, WHAT A FANTASTIC WEB SITE!!:):)
 
AaronLovell said:
Whilst the battery was off i replaced the 10amp fuse again and it blew as soon as i reconnected the battery lol! Oh and now its telling me my windows and sunroof are not set, what on earth does that mean??????
Click to expand...

ok, had a look at your photos and didn't see one of the EAS timer but DID see one of the connector that goes to the EAS ECU.

To confirm, this is the EAS Delay Timer...

xtndtimer.JPG


Can you definitely confirm this is what you have pulled out and removed??

-Wills :)
 
i can definatly confirm that is NOT what i disconnected..... Sorry, i'm an idiot, I thought it was just that plug i pulled under the front of the seat..... I will do the correct one tomorrw morning and let you know.

Glad i put the pics up or i would have just gone on thinking i had pulled out the correct bit!!

Thank you again for your help

Aaron
 
Hi Wills

Just pulled out the timer, ( the correct part this time, Land Rover Zone - AaronLovell's Album: EAS timer ) and put a new fuse in, didn't blow, replaced the timer and imediately the fuse blew again.

Tried it twice and both times the same thing, blew as soon as the timer was replaced!!

All the wireing and connections look in perfect order.

What are your thoughts now?

Again thanks in advance.

Aaron
 
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Well having a look at the timer the pins on it (certainly the one most in view) looks discoloured and burnt almost - do you have access to another P38 that you could borrow another timer off of??

By pulling the timer you have established that your fusebok in the engine is ok and that you don't have a short up to the delay timer socket at least because the fuse doesn't blow when the timer is removed.

Have you tried popping the cover off of the delay timer to have a look at the state of the inside??

Either way whatever happens I would be looking at trying to source another delay timer and go from there. It is possible to manually jumper the connections on the socket - would you be comfortable doing this??

-Wills :)
 
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