GrumpyGel said:
It may not rip your sunroof off, but it'll have a good go at the head lining ;)

My sunroof works. I know cos I never use it in case it breaks :D However, I occasionally hit the wrong button when I open the window and it opens :oops:

No need to open it anyway as I have AC - however, I'm to tight to pay the extra diesel to turn that on! It only goes on when we're in tour mode for visiting friends and family.
Click to expand...

Hahaha!
I thought of that approach - but thought that probably keeping it moving would be better to keep it free
I also know what to do next time too, and have a couple of spare mechanisms now

I glued up the Headlining yesterday AAMOF
Its already starting to come down in places :D as the foam is crumbly - Portuguese summers are a bit aggressive in this respect
My AC has never had any fluid in it - I looked at the state of the rubber tubing and decided it wasnt worth it
But, I am going to finally replace the rear window winder mechanisms next week after 5 years so that's a start
With the sunroof open the exhaust gases dont come in through the open tailgate window either
 
Bife said:
Hahaha!
I thought of that approach - but thought that probably keeping it moving would be better to keep it free
I also know what to do next time too, and have a couple of spare mechanisms now

I glued up the Headlining yesterday AAMOF
Its already starting to come down in places :D as the foam is crumbly - Portuguese summers are a bit aggressive in this respect
My AC has never had any fluid in it - I looked at the state of the rubber tubing and decided it wasnt worth it
But, I am going to finally replace the rear window winder mechanisms next week after 5 years so that's a start
With the sunroof open the exhaust gases dont come in through the open tailgate window either
Click to expand...
The headlining has separated on mine as well, the whole back end is hanging down.

It went on the old D1 I had, the foam turned to dust. I tried fixing that in-situ with spray on Ados glue - but it was a complete fail.

The backing needs removing from the car, cleaning up and a new liner glued on (with help from gravity rather than it trying to pull it back off). There are threads on here showing great results (not sure if there's any in the Freelander section, but definitely are in others)
 
GrumpyGel said:
The headlining has separated on mine as well, the whole back end is hanging down.

It went on the old D1 I had, the foam turned to dust. I tried fixing that in-situ with spray on Ados glue - but it was a complete fail.

The backing needs removing from the car, cleaning up and a new liner glued on (with help from gravity rather than it trying to pull it back off). There are threads on here showing great results (not sure if there's any in the Freelander section, but definitely are in others)
Click to expand...

As of now, thats on my list

at the bottom
 
Working on my son's sunroof today. Managed to remove glass & start cleaning of one of the slide mechanisms. It now moves nicely, but need to replace several plastic parts. Got one of those eBay kits on order.

Question is whether I need to drill out rivets, or if it's possible to disassemble without ? Also how to move the glass slider past the little stop, so I can replace the gear cog ?
 

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There is a special Land Rover team that look at fitting parts back on, 3 lugs the same length would be an easy fit so they cut one off and make a spacer that falls into the headlining space to make it harder and allows it to qualify as a Land Rover !!!
 
"Replacement" plastic parts and motor gear on order (due tomorrow or Monday). Asked various eBay seller if they have instructions for removing the old sliders, but all of them said to refer to YouTube videos. Problem is, I cannot find a single video.

Wondering which rivet I need to drill out first, or all of them ? What did those of you that have done the repair do ?
 
No rivets to drill, all torx screws. Drop motor, 4 or 5 torx on each side mech and pull mech and cable out from sleeve.
 
andyfreelandy said:
No rivets to drill, all torx screws. Drop motor, 4 or 5 torx on each side mech and pull mech and cable out from sleeve.
Click to expand...
Yes I have the mechanism out & the sliding section removed from the base. My question is about disassembly of the two toothed sliders & the central cog. It seems to be riveted together, and there's stops to prevent it sliding apart.

I need to replace the part where the glass mounts.
 
Pop the star washer off the outside and slider comes free to pull out. Hard to explain. Video would be good, not got a spare at present!
 
I can easily replace the pivot piece on the base. That's just a torx screw.

Problem is the part where the cable attaches in second pic. Either have the carefully remove the hinge pin, or separate from the slider ?

I would also like to replace the two tracks with teeth & gear wheel, although these do seem to move ok. There a stopper that prevents them extending too far (pic 3).

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IMG_3229.JPG

1688233069129.png
 
The slider that cable attaches to only comes out the back. Have to slide toothed bar off and take it all to bits.
 
Wish I had videoed it now. Rebuilt a couple a few weeks back. No drilling required. Top toothed bits slide off opposite way to the stop, think there might be a small spring plate to press in to run them off.
 
Now figured out how to extract the sliding rails from the mechanism. Posting answer in case others need this in future.

1) Start with the rails fully retracted.
2) Gently push down on the inner rail, which allows it to slide past the stop.
3) Now the cog disengages, and the glass mount rail can be extracted.
4) Then remove the cog, and extract the inner rail.

As others have said, only do one side at a time, and use the other mechanism as a guide to positioning for re-assembly.

IMG_3232.JPG
 
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