Lej · Nov 11, 2022

Hi guys,

As the title suggests I've pulled a rookie. I tightened the oil pipe nut on to the brass thread and managed to strip 3/4 of the brass thread.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get enough torque behind the bolt to crush the copper washer? I can get it to a certain point before it slips, it's not enough to make a seal.

Also, is there a part I.D for the copper washer, I can't seem to find one and have had to result to a generic copper washer (probably what caused the thread to strip).

Thank you!

Grebby · Nov 11, 2022

Did you anneal the copper washer?

Lej · Nov 11, 2022

Grebby said:
Did you anneal the copper washer?

Hi Grebby,

Yes I did, but I'm worried the washer is too thick.

I've been looking online and can't actually find anything to suggest there's a copper washer at all. The oil cooling hoses only appear to have rubber O rings?

Grebby · Nov 11, 2022

TBH I'm not sure what connection you mean?

I just know that annealing the copper softens it so it can deform to make the seal.

There are loads of far more knowledgeable people on here than me.
What engine do you have?

Disco1BFG · Nov 11, 2022

Need to know which engine, as above, and picture is worth a thousand words..

lynall · Nov 12, 2022

200 and 300 have different cooler pipe set ups at the rad end.
Iirc the threaded adaptors are available on their own.

For 200 item 3, no idea on 300 version!

Dr Strangeglove · Nov 12, 2022

I have a 300tdi and that has rubber "O" rings.

kermit_rr · Nov 12, 2022

Use a different washer and maybe some PTFE tape?

Lej · Nov 12, 2022

Hi guys,

The engine I have is a 200 tdi from a discovery 1.

I have looked online for the cooling pipes to see what should be used but none of them match the ends of mine, I've attached an image below- mine are tapered at the end but all the others online seem to be round and have a washer on the ends? I can't say for definite what was on there before, but being that it's tapered I would have assumed copper?

Lej · Nov 12, 2022

lynall said:
200 and 300 have different cooler pipe set ups at the rad end.
Iirc the threaded adaptors are available on their own.

For 200 item 3, no idea on 300 version!
View attachment 278084

Hi Lynall,

Do the adapters replace the brass section that has threaded for mine or does it act as a sleeve/reducer for different pipe setups?

marjon · Nov 12, 2022

A cone on the end to me means it metal to metal seal.
Is the "seat " tapered too? doesn't look like it.

I know nothing of the engine but just being logical

.

J

Dippypud · Nov 12, 2022

marjon said:
A cone on the end to me means it metal to metal seal.
Is the "seat " tapered too? doesn't look like it.

I know nothing of the engine but just being logical.

J

Might seat to a 'O' ring fitting ?

lynall · Nov 12, 2022

Lej said:
Hi Lynall,

Do the adapters replace the brass section that has threaded for mine or does it act as a sleeve/reducer for different pipe setups?

No the adaptors are purely to join the two female threaded fittings together.
If you have damaged the threaded radiator insert then you might try one of the loctite products, I use the green one on threads, no idea of its name/model number!

marjon · Nov 12, 2022

Dippypud said:
Might seat to a 'O' ring fitting ?

That is possible. the seat dont look like a match to the pipes to me either. But dont look like a copper washer seal face.

J

Dippypud · Nov 12, 2022

marjon said:
That is possible. the seat dont look like a match to the pipes to me either. But don't look like a copper washer seal face.

J

The pipe seat has a 'gentle' step whereas the female fitting is sharper ...

Lej · Nov 12, 2022

lynall said:
No the adaptors are purely to join the two female threaded fittings together.
If you have damaged the threaded radiator insert then you might try one of the loctite products, I use the green one on threads, no idea of its name/model number!

The problem I'm having is that the nut gets to a certain point and slips, so i can't get enough torque behind it to press the seal.

I'm still unsure whether it needs an 'O' ring or a copper washer.

Lej · Nov 12, 2022

Dippypud said:
The pipe seat has a 'gentle' step whereas the female fitting is sharper ...

Correct,

the seat has a very small bevel to it probably 0.5mm. it then has a recess where I assume a washer or 'O' ring sits... the fiotting itself is a steel tapered fitting.

Lej · Nov 12, 2022

fitting* rather

lynall · Nov 13, 2022

Lej said:
Correct,

the seat has a very small bevel to it probably 0.5mm. it then has a recess where I assume a washer or 'O' ring sits... the fiotting itself is a steel tapered fitting.

Maybe a pic would clarify things, but the fact it is stripped means it is most likely dead, your local hydraulic hose place might be able to help, Pirtek etc?

Wimblowdriver · Nov 13, 2022

Looks made for metal to metal mating surfaces, without the need for seals or washers. (Like brake hose fittings). The mating surface in the adaptor looks damaged, so somebody might have tried to use a washer to seal it at some time. Assuming the nut on the pipe is steel, its threads should be ok. A replacement adaptor (Nr 3 in Lynall's diagram) should fix it.

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