Crosbo

Crosbo

New Member
The '02 Range Rover is failing to turn over. Turn the key on, but only receive 1 beep, not the usual 2 beeps. Attempts to start the vehicle are met with no response.

Check fuse, checked relay…relay appears burnt. Swapped relay with EAS relay that is no longer used. Still nothing. Checked all connections…still no start.

Only thing out of the ordinary is the single beep when turning the ignition on…no messages, no codes.

Thoughts?
 
Try jumping it off another vehicle maybe? I've heard they are notoriously fickle on the amount of charge held in the batteries ...
 
Lights working at all...may not be battery...check all connections to battery, earths, alternator.

P
 
Don't know much about your vehicle but if relay is burnt perhaps the solder on back of the board has melted off also
 
Crosbo said:
The '02 Range Rover is failing to turn over. Turn the key on, but only receive 1 beep, not the usual 2 beeps. Attempts to start the vehicle are met with no response.

Check fuse, checked relay…relay appears burnt. Swapped relay with EAS relay that is no longer used. Still nothing. Checked all connections…still no start.

Only thing out of the ordinary is the single beep when turning the ignition on…no messages, no codes.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
It would help if you introduced yourself and told us eaxactly what vehicle you are talking about, an 02 could be an L322 or a P38, it could be petrol or diesel. I guess it's a P38 because of the comment about the EAS but my crystal ball is a bit fuzzy about the rest.
 
Datatek said:
It would help if you introduced yourself and told us eaxactly what vehicle you are talking about, an 02 could be an L322 or a P38, it could be petrol or diesel. I guess it's a P38 because of the comment about the EAS but my crystal ball is a bit fuzzy about the rest.
Click to expand...

I'd say P38 as he refers to the beeps of doom :)
 
Sorry all, forgot I was on an international forum.

Yes, '02 P38. All connections appear to be good…lights bright etc. New battery in the last 3-4 months. Attempting to start fails to generate any additional responses, clicks nor a dimming of the lights.

I've printed off the troubleshooting lists from RAVE and will be back to where the vehicle is located this weekend…with tools and VOM to check voltages and continuity. Which also will involve taking a look at the underside of the fuel panel.

I guess we'll see what we see.
 
Crosbo said:
"Resynch" as in "hard clear"?
Click to expand...
Resync as in resynchronising the BeCM immobiliser code with the Engine ECU/ECM immobiliser code....

In the P38, the BeCM and the ECM both hold a code, on initiation of the start sequence the ECM asks the BeCM to confirm the code, the BeCM and the ECM compare the codes they have stored and if they match, the BeCM allows the ECM to start the car, if they are different, you will not be allowed to start the car.

On some models and years this inhibition is either to prevent cranking or to prevent fueling and/or spark.

At times this code is lost in one of the ECU's preventing a start - not 100% sure why it happens, but data can get corrupted due to low battery volts, electrical spikes or similar.

A Syncmate tool, Nanocom or Faultmate Extreme when plugged into the diagnostic socket can read the code stored and apply it to the unit that has 'forgotten' the code.

The Diesel unit doesn't suffer sync issues as commonly as the V8's.
 
Thanx for the info Saint.

I certainly hope that is not the problem…because it will result in a 180 mile trailer ride to get it home, if that is the case. Just to find someone with the tool to resynch it.

I guess we'll know something more by tomorrow.

thanx--tom
 
Where's the vehicle located? Someone might be able to check the synch for you avoiding a long trailer drive.
 
Thanx GRRRR…the vehicle is located in Waco, Texas.

The update:

I could hear the BeCM clicking when attempting to start the vehicle, but the starter did not engage. The solenoid was not engaging, or even clicking. Tested battery at 12.47v. Checked voltage at starter, the same. Checked the line to the solenoid for voltage, and the voltage was at 8-9 volts, when attempting to start the vehicle. I tried jumpering the starter contacts, but the starter did not engage…and the odd thing was, creating the contact only produced very week small sparks…very weak.

So, I wound up pulling the battery and ultimately the starter. Had both checked for viability. The battery checked out okay and in the process, was fully charged. The starter failed the testing process…twice.

An hour later, new starter in place and battery reinstalled…the starter still failed to engage. Jumping the starter now caused the starter to engage, but the line to engage the solenoid was still only receiving 8-9 volts…the solenoid was not being activated. Checked all relevant fuses and relays…all okay.

So, the relevant symptom of whatever the problem that I have that remains, appears to be whatever would cause or prevent the system from sending batter voltage to the solenoid to activate the solenoid.

Because the vehicle is 180 miles away, I'm contemplating installing a separate "starter" switch or button, to provide 12v to the solenoid.

Thoughts?
 
Starter relay and/or fuse box probelms. Check the underbonnet fuse box for signs or smells of burning.
 
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