I believe last time an ABS sensor was not connected?

You connected that and it then appeared to work OK.

However, an ABS Sensor would not throw the handbrake warning light - it would throw the ABS and probably TC and HDC lights - collectively known as the "3 Amigos".

That being the case - are you sure you have the handbrake light coming on?

Do you ABS/TC/HCS on your car? Some early ones didn't, if you have a yellow Hill Descent switch on the gear selector?

When you turn your ignition on do you get 4 brake related lights lit? ABS/TC/HDCx2 ? They should come on for a couple of seconds and then 3 go out to leave just the ABS until you start moving and get to 5mph.

For those that don't know, ABS faults can be expensive and complex to fix - and its a MOT failure - so people have been known to remove the bulbs from the dash to get it through a MOT - or possibly fiddle with things so the hand brake light comes on instead!
 
GrumpyGel said:
I believe last time an ABS sensor was not connected?

You connected that and it then appeared to work OK.

However, an ABS Sensor would not throw the handbrake warning light - it would throw the ABS and probably TC and HDC lights - collectively known as the "3 Amigos".

That being the case - are you sure you have the handbrake light coming on?

Do you ABS/TC/HCS on your car? Some early ones didn't, if you have a yellow Hill Descent switch on the gear selector?

When you turn your ignition on do you get 4 brake related lights lit? ABS/TC/HDCx2 ? They should come on for a couple of seconds and then 3 go out to leave just the ABS until you start moving and get to 5mph.

For those that don't know, ABS faults can be expensive and complex to fix - and its a MOT failure - so people have been known to remove the bulbs from the dash to get it through a MOT - or possibly fiddle with things so the hand brake light comes on instead!
Click to expand...
 
When I start the car all the lights go off apart from the red brake light that goes off when I release the handbrake but comes back on at 10mph and stays on
I changed the wheelbearing at weekend and the abs ring was broken so I've ordered a new one
The other lights never stay on
Yes I do have hill decent on gear stick
Car is a 2002
 
Right - the light you have coming on is the Brake/EBD light. This comes on if the hand brake is on, low fluid level or a serious ABS fault.

As the light goes off with the hand brake, I imagine the hand brake switch is working OK. Similarly, you have the correct fluid level and the fluid level switch is working correctly.

That unfortunately leaves just the serious ABS fault!

You really need to get a diagnostic reader on the car to find out what the fault is. For example, reading the Rave manual, the EBD light will illuminate if 2 or more ABS sensors fail. I have a feeling, someone has been playing silly buggers with the lights on your dash - ie taken 1 or more out. The ABS/TC and 2x HDC lights should light up when you turn the ignition on - and then they go off after a couple of seconds - apart from the ABS one which may only go out once you get to 5mph.

As I say, you'll need to get the codes read to find out what is going on with your system and determine what component(s) the ECU has detected problems with. If you don't have it, the Rave workshop manual is downloadable and there's info on where to get it and install it here...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rave-disk-maintenance-manual.260227/

You'll need the manual for the later MY01 Freelander, not the early one. I've been reading in the Workshop Manual "System Description and Operation" manual in the "Brakes" section. The very first page of text 70-3 (after the layout diagrams) describes some actions leading to the EBD light being illuminated. There's various other discussion in the following pages and on 70-22 there's a table of which faults throw which lights.
 
Incidentally, you're obviously getting to know the Freelander as you've seen the light and moving from a Shogun. Freelander transmission is very different to a most 4x4 - it doesn't have have switchable 2/4wd or a center diff to eliminate windup between axle speeds, it uses a VCU. This means you need 4 exactly matching tyres and unlike a center diff - the VCU goes tight over time and can destroy the car's transmission. If you're not absolutely sure you know your way around the Freelander's transmission, please have a look at this thread...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

It doesn't tell you how it works - but tells you how to test the car to make sure it doesn't all go bang big time.
 
Check the VCU isn't seized before fitting the propshaft. You should be able to turn it (with difficulty) with a couple of large screwdrivers in the knuckles. If you can't make it budge DON'T FIT IT or your drive train could explode. If you can turn it and get it fitted then test it with the one wheel up test. It's not a definitive test but it's the best available. 5kg on a 1.2m bar and any more than 1 minute and it is tight, any more than two minutes and you should remove again immediately. Inbetween and your probably OK but prepare to replace or repair it.
 
Alibro said:
Check the VCU isn't seized before fitting the propshaft. You should be able to turn it (with difficulty) with a couple of large screwdrivers in the knuckles. If you can't make it budge DON'T FIT IT or your drive train could explode. If you can turn it and get it fitted then test it with the one wheel up test. It's not a definitive test but it's the best available. 5kg on a 1.2m bar and any more than 1 minute and it is tight, any more than two minutes and you should remove again immediately. Inbetween and your probably OK but prepare to replace or repair it.
Click to expand...
I've split the propshaft as the bearings were knackered going to replace with genuine ones also got a new boot for the tripod bearing
 
DCUNNINGHAM said:
I dont understand so the Vcu should turn in opposite directions in the middle is that what you mean
Click to expand...

One end of the VCU should turn in relation to the other end. It will be stiff, but you should be able to turn it slowly with a couple of foot long levers. If you can't turn it, then it's probably not worth fitting your expensive bearings.
Do you have access to a bench mounted vise and a long lever?
 
Nodge68 said:
One end of the VCU should turn in relation to the other end. It will be stiff, but you should be able to turn it slowly with a couple of foot long levers. If you can't turn it, then it's probably not worth fitting your expensive bearings.
Do you have access to a bench mounted vise and a long lever?
Click to expand...
Wot he said.
It's designed to allow the front and back ends of the drive shaft to rotate at different speeds so long as the difference is small, like when driving round a tight bend. If the front wheels loose grip on a slippery surface the difference is big and the fluid inside the VCU kinda goes stiff and fights the difference sending drive to the rear wheels.
The problem is they age and become very stiff all the time causing damage to the rear diff and IRD.
 
Nodge68 said:
One end of the VCU should turn in relation to the other end. It will be stiff, but you should be able to turn it slowly with a couple of foot long levers. If you can't turn it, then it's probably not worth fitting your expensive bearings.
Do you have access to a bench mounted vise and a long lever?
Click to expand...
I have a vice and a couple of crowbars I will put it together tomorrow without the bearings and see if it moves
But from looking at it it doesn't look that old no paint fade or rust just the rubber part of bearing was split
 
Bearings on the VCU being knackered are about the only reason a prop shafts can be removed unless there is some other serious trouble. Its possible that's the reason the props were removed from your Freelander - but highly likely it could be some other reason - in which case, you are likely looking at a replacement/recon IRD as well if you want 4WD.

So be very careful when installing the props. As above and in the 3 Test link, once installed, do the 1 wheel up test - if it fails whip it straight off again. If it passes, then take it for a VERY cautious test drive - don't take to many tight turns or turns at speed to start with. If your IRD has been previously damaged, you run a risk of jamming it up and cracking its case. The car will be useless then until you get a replacement IRD. If the car drives and sounds OK. You may be lucky :)

It would be a good idea to replace the oil in the IRD before installing the props. If the old oil comes out black - its probably in good nick. If it comes out grey, that's worn down bearings suspended in the oil and the IRD will definitely need a rebuild before going back to 4WD. Slacken the fill bolt before draining as they are made of cheese.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Bearings on the VCU being knackered are about the only reason a prop shafts can be removed unless there is some other serious trouble. Its possible that's the reason the props were removed from your Freelander - but highly likely it could be some other reason - in which case, you are likely looking at a replacement/recon IRD as well if you want 4WD.

So be very careful when installing the props. As above and in the 3 Test link, once installed, do the 1 wheel up test - if it fails whip it straight off again. If it passes, then take it for a VERY cautious test drive - don't take to many tight turns or turns at speed to start with. If your IRD has been previously damaged, you run a risk of jamming it up and cracking its case. The car will be useless then until you get a replacement IRD. If the car drives and sounds OK. You may be lucky :)

It would be a good idea to replace the oil in the IRD before installing the props. If the old oil comes out black - its probably in good nick. If it comes out grey, that's worn down bearings suspended in the oil and the IRD will definitely need a rebuild before going back to 4WD. Slacken the fill bolt before draining as they are made of cheese.
Click to expand...
I think most cars without prop shafts have had them removed because of the bearings failing. The dealer I bought mine off had removed it for that reason and claimed most Freelanders he sees are the same. Hopefully yours was removed for that reason but as GG says don't assume that is the case and take it easy for a while.
Also he is 100% right about the IRD fill bolt, make sure you have a new one on hand before going near it.
 
Alibro said:
I think most cars without prop shafts have had them removed because of the bearings failing. The dealer I bought mine off had removed it for that reason and claimed most Freelanders he sees are the same. Hopefully yours was removed for that reason but as GG says don't assume that is the case and take it easy for a while.
Also he is 100% right about the IRD fill bolt, make sure you have a new one on hand before going near it.
Click to expand...
The prop situation seems more trouble than it's worth I was under the impression people remove them for fuel saving and centre bearing failed
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Z
P38A Random braking problem-sometimes extremely hard brake pedal
Replies
19
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
andyfreelandy
Freelander 1 Front brakes still hot, new calipers and pins. Intermittent.
Replies
19
Views
1K
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
L
FLICKERING BRAKE PAD WARNING LIGHT WHEN HANDBRAKE APPLIED??
Replies
11
Views
647
lrjohn
L
andyfreelandy
Freelander 1 Front Wheel Banging when braking ABS? SOLVED
Replies
17
Views
2K
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
S
brake spring
Replies
2
Views
565
Bobsticle
Bobsticle