seriously ? worried about adding 10kg to a 1.3t car ?

its not gonna affect anything :doh: get them to ship to someone in uk then to you, and paddocks home made ****e is ****e!

10kg here and there and then over there make a big difference in the end. Belive me, I work a lot with truck components and modifications (26t, 36, even 50t trucks) and small weight gains across the vehicle make a big difference.
Specially since I don't do really agressive offroading...

Do the Mantec ones have some sort of internal frame?
 
Unless you have other recovery points (not the tie down points) then go for one with recovery point.
 
10kg here and there and then over there make a big difference in the end. Belive me, I work a lot with truck components and modifications (26t, 36, even 50t trucks) and small weight gains across the vehicle make a big difference.
Specially since I don't do really agressive offroading...

Do the Mantec ones have some sort of internal frame?

you need 10mm ally to compete with 6mm steel, do the maths


and if you're not doing aggressive offroading why do you need a steering guard ?
 
you need 10mm ally to compete with 6mm steel, do the maths


and if you're not doing aggressive offroading why do you need a steering guard ?

actually Doc you need 50% thicker aluminium to match steel......... 6 mm steel you need 12 mm aluminum

2) Since an aluminum structure is designed to a deflection criteria, all scantlings are made somewhere around 50% or so larger than they would be for a steel structure. For the sake of an easy example, what would be one inch of plate thickness on a steel vessel would be approximately one and a half inches of plate thickness on the aluminum vessel in order to achieve the same rigidity of structure.
 
actually Doc you need 50% thicker aluminium to match steel......... 6 mm steel you need 12 mm aluminum

2) Since an aluminum structure is designed to a deflection criteria, all scantlings are made somewhere around 50% or so larger than they would be for a steel structure. For the sake of an easy example, what would be one inch of plate thickness on a steel vessel would be approximately one and a half inches of plate thickness on the aluminum vessel in order to achieve the same rigidity of structure.

yes but he was planning on buying 10mm ally hence its what he's measuring against when ordering steel or ally
 
actually Doc you need 50% thicker aluminium to match steel......... 6 mm steel you need 12 mm aluminum

2) Since an aluminum structure is designed to a deflection criteria, all scantlings are made somewhere around 50% or so larger than they would be for a steel structure. For the sake of an easy example, what would be one inch of plate thickness on a steel vessel would be approximately one and a half inches of plate thickness on the aluminum vessel in order to achieve the same rigidity of structure.

50% thicker than 6mm is 9mm shirley? :confused:
 
Unless you have other recovery points (not the tie down points) then go for one with recovery point.

I was about to point that out;)

Ally is good as long you know what grade it is,and strong enough for recovery mounts otherwise you dont know what your buying ,at least with steel its got to be around 45kg/mm.

Corrosion with ally guards can be a problem with conector tabs turning to dust, Ive seen it
 
and if you're not doing aggressive offroading why do you need a steering guard ?

I do more of what you could call greenlaning, and now and then I touch wich my steering bars in something I don't want. I would call it cheap insurance.

In my search I keep seing pics of completelly bent alloy guards like the one from Paddock. Not a good thing...
Also, just confirmed thaat the one from Mantec has an internal frame
 
I just bought one of these from paddocks. Galv steel, fitted in 30 minutes and then took it out and ended up giving a real world test the next week. Really pleased. Seems very solid and heavy with the advantage of the built in recovery points.

Here

Cheers
 
By the way, what about the tubular steering guards?
Like this one:

Image056.jpg


Any experiences?
Thanks
 
Hello again

In the last few days I had the opportunity to see in person some of the guards. I saw the Paddocks aluminum, the LR tubular guard and the LR aluminum guard (same as the Mantec, but with a ribbed plate).

The Tubular one looks like a smart solution, but is way too expensive for a bar of metal, and the brackets are flimsy.

The Paddocks aluminum was bent all the way and the aluminum plate was more oxidized than the galvanised steel brackets that support it.

The LR aluminum looks nice, but the brackets are really thin and the owner told me that the back frame that reinforces the plate has a tendency to rust (only painted).

Also, turns out the Mantec weights just as much as the HD steel guard from Paddock, with this one being only +-7kg heavier than the aluminum version.

I guess I'll go with the HD steel guard from Paddock and paint it black to better suit the car. A pair of shackles on the recovery points will also be usefull
 

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