yes
That will need some committed welding to bring that back!!!
A lot of Grinding/Welding to do, to bring that back!! lol
@The Mad Hat Man @Hicap phill @dieseldog69
I've cleaned up shocks and they seem to compress and expand again evenly with no signs of leaking. Springwise, is it worth me buying new? The existing only have surface rust but didn't know if landys snap springs? I had a bm that did and don't want this happening after I've put all back together!!
I've cleaned up shocks and they seem to compress and expand again evenly with no signs of leaking. Springwise, is it worth me buying new? The existing only have surface rust but didn't know if landys snap springs? I had a bm that did and don't want this happening after I've put all back together!!
use the old ones, if only surface rust, Unless you want a different ride height (lift), then you will need to change them.
Thanks and yes no visible damage. They match the +2 shocks. They're baby blueish which I believe is bearmach. I'll give them a brush back and paint too. Thanks
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
it don't take long to change a broke spring if all the nuts lubrucated & easily removed.
Bet it's pleasing now it's going together
Bet it's pleasing now it's going together
wheres the gittar fit?
Goes in the back for when I sit in with a bbq on and a beer on the go in the summer once it's built
I refuse to put dirty parts back on. My clean pile is growing! Need to chop other a frame arm off then I think I have everything to put axle in place. Will wait until I've done remaining chassis repairs first though. Not many rooms without tools or land rover parts in now...
Boing!
I didn't chop the outrigger off the sill. It fell off when I chopped from chassis
Finished the tank cradle bracket. Will test soon but I think it's pretty damn solid. The steel wasn't so uniform on existing cross member so I couldn't go as hot as I liked. I went with what it could take, ground down and then put a hot wide weld over the top
Finished the tank cradle bracket. Will test soon but I think it's pretty damn solid. The steel wasn't so uniform on existing cross member so I couldn't go as hot as I liked. I went with what it could take, ground down and then put a hot wide weld over the top
I had some that looked like that Lolz
You are either unemployed or on holidays?
You are either unemployed
or on holidays?Took 3 days off to work on it but hoping for gardening leave too lol.
I've hit my head so many times today. Had face fulls of crap of the underside in my face and been in a few stupid positions with a grinder.
I got the rear bumper off and began attacking that hole on the mount then realised I can't do it really until I do the crossmember.
The outrigger mount was welded to a piece of overlap floor Steel i.e. 1.2mm
There's overlapping metal the whole way down the inner box section. That's why I kept thinking it was double skin. Looks like I need to place both a froggats and yrm order.
My boot has locked me out also which is annoying.
All underside up to trailing arm brackets has been attacked. It got brushed, deoxed then brushed again prior to primer.
I've hit my head so many times today. Had face fulls of crap of the underside in my face and been in a few stupid positions with a grinder.
I got the rear bumper off and began attacking that hole on the mount then realised I can't do it really until I do the crossmember.
The outrigger mount was welded to a piece of overlap floor Steel i.e. 1.2mm
There's overlapping metal the whole way down the inner box section. That's why I kept thinking it was double skin. Looks like I need to place both a froggats and yrm order.
My boot has locked me out also which is annoying.
All underside up to trailing arm brackets has been attacked. It got brushed, deoxed then brushed again prior to primer.
