Where the solenoid is mounted is irelevant - unless your building a concourse show exhibit. The important bit is that the starter gear meshes correctly with the ring gear, which it would appear to do.
It's quite likely that the starter failed just because they do -:eek:
 
it would be interesting to see a pre-engaged starter have the solenoid mounted on the bulkhead
 
Sounds like the selenoid stuck on and the bendix remained on the starter ring after 3 miles the starter would be well and truley shagged Your photo looks like a series 111 12v starter with selenoid to me Check the number of teeth on the old starter against the number on the new, they should be the same. If not they will probably not mesh correctly with the starting ring and cause serious damage, Chris
 
OK, now sorted..
Turns out that it's got a defender 90 engine fitted - well how was I to know that? - so once I fitted the right starter all was well.
Thanks for all of your advice - I just took it for a spin around the block and the exhaust is blowing and the brakes are crap so I may be calling on you again soon!
Cheers,
Simon
 
I Have The Same Problem. I Took The Starter To The Electric And He Fixed It, But ..... Only Worked Well For 2 Months!! ... Now I Have The Same Problem, But The Engine Doesn´t Turned Off. (fortunately)

When I Start The Engine It Makes A Noise Like: Grrrr !!!, After It Start, I´m Afraid That This Will Be A Sympthom Of Get A Brand New Starter.

Salutes.
 
Seriously, my starter motor sounds like its got whooping cough after I've fired the motor up. Has sounded like it for years.

Regards WP.
 
Hi, may I jump on this thread? I too have just bought a series 3 with a diesel engine. I ran the 'truck' (as I call it) for about four days no probs and then without warning I had a really rattly noise, loud too, when I started the engine. I switched it off and tried to restart but all I could hear was the solenoid of the starter motor plunging, no spinning. I was miles from home so I bump started it and endured a rather loud rattly drive home. I've ordered a s/h starter motor to change on Saturday but somebody did mention about the possibility of damaging the ring gear on the flywheel. So, does the series 3 have a ring gear? (I can't find that term in the haynes manual), do all cars have ring gears? basically, have I messed up mi truck and how big a job have I created. I haven't had it a week and it's broken ! Chuffity Chuff.
 
skismo said:
I haven't had it a week and it's broken !
Click to expand...

I know how you feel!

The rattling noise on your drive home was probably the cog on the end of the starter destroying itself since it was stuck in mesh with the ring gear on the engine. Mine did the same, and although the starter bendix was completely chewed up the ring gear was OK - you'll see it when you take the starter off. If you turn the engine over slowly by hand using the fan belt you can check the ring gear all the way round, but it's probably OK since the starter bendix is made of softer metal.

Not a big job then - disconnect the battery, disconnect the starter electrics, undo the two bolts holding the starter and swap with a new one.

Good luck!
 
No one told me that I'd have to undo the exhaust pipe from the manifold to get the starter motor off !!!! Anyhow, looks like the teeth on the flywheel have had a rough 20 mins but only at the very very edge. Looks like I've got away with it. The starter motor on the other hand is a tad shagged.
Where's the best place to get a starting handle? I've tried four scrappers and none of them have one.

Cheers,

Skismo.
 
I had to disconnect the down pipe from the manifold on my S3, but then it's got a Defender 90 engine and a pre-engaged starter - I would have thought that your starter would have come off OK but clearly not!

The next problem you're likely to have is when you connect the down pipe back on and two of the nuts will strip their threads. You'll have to remove the manifolds and try to get the downpipe studs out, two of which will snap. You'll then order another exhaust manifold and a bolt kit and try to put it all back together. You'll find that the bolt kit doesn't contain the studs joining the inlet to the exhaust manifold and so you'll try to remove them from the old manifold. Three will come out OK but the last one will snap off. You'll order some new ones, but they won't arrive before the weekend and so you'll be Land Rover less for another week.... (guess how I know).

Good luck anyway...!
 
There ya go ya see, knowing people like you is truly wondeful. I am now fully aware of all the things that can go wrong - and avoid them !! I'll just have to nip the nuts onto the bolts and make do with a bit more noise from the S3, which I've now decided I'm going to call 'Chunky'.
 
Hi Skismo Starting handles cost 7 49 from Buckley Bros Darwin Lancs Good for all series parts and very helpful They also have a cheap postal service I know because I live in N.Ireland and use them quote often their website is http://www.landroverspares.co.uk Go to Series 1 ...Engine sect. punch in starting handle. good luck
 
Me again !

Just a quicky Q.

Having visited a few spares places now, I'm thinking that either Quentin Wilson lied a bit when he said "you'll be paying for spare parts using 50pence pieces" in last month's LRO magazine, or, starter motors are one of the most expensive items you can not hope to be needing to buy !

Am I looking in the wrong places?
 
Hi Skismo

You should have removed the dip stick tube. Then you pull the starter motor towards the radiator and angle it up up and lift up. It helps to have an assistant to support the motor with a rope or sling round it.

try that next time !
 
Hi guys and gals,

A slight technical hitch here, my new (new to me but 24yrs old) Series III won't turn over anymore.

Picked her up from where I bought her yesterday afternoon, drove her 3 miles to the local petrol station, put 32L of Diesel in her and then tried to turn her over. Nothing, not even a click from the solenoid.

Any suggestions?

It's coming upto the weekend and I'd like to get Maddy (nicknamed the S3 Matilda and shortened it to Maddy already) out on a green lane event this Sunday. Any help would be muchly appreciated.

Cheers,
wetnwild.
 
SimonM said:
I had to disconnect the down pipe from the manifold on my S3, but then it's got a Defender 90 engine and a pre-engaged starter - I would have thought that your starter would have come off OK but clearly not!

The next problem you're likely to have is when you connect the down pipe back on and two of the nuts will strip their threads. You'll have to remove the manifolds and try to get the downpipe studs out, two of which will snap. You'll then order another exhaust manifold and a bolt kit and try to put it all back together. You'll find that the bolt kit doesn't contain the studs joining the inlet to the exhaust manifold and so you'll try to remove them from the old manifold. Three will come out OK but the last one will snap off. You'll order some new ones, but they won't arrive before the weekend and so you'll be Land Rover less for another week.... (guess how I know).

Good luck anyway...!
Click to expand...

lol @ SimonM
youve been working on my series III 21/4 diesel then:)
didnt have to take then downpipe off in then end found this out after i broke the first stud i tried:)
but wetnwild i now have the same trouble as you
starter been tested works fine motor wont spin over
tried turning by the crank handle but will not turn even an inch so me suspects hydrlic faliure in the block somewhere:(
and mine was of to a military show this weekend so now i have to take the staff car (vauxall astra est )
 
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