Like the genuine Valeo condenser I fitted to the 2cv this summer? Didn't even get to the end of the lane... Fortunately. The 6yo one went back on, and failed a thousand miles later.

TooMany2cvs said:

Like the genuine Valeo condenser I fitted to the 2cv this summer? Didn't even get to the end of the lane... Fortunately. The 6yo one went back on, and failed a thousand miles later.

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Valeo don't make condensors anymore - they just put their name on cheap Chinese cr*p! Remax ones are great... I've just put 30,000 miles on one on my MK2 Jaguar and I have only changed it because it was getting so well used. It still measures near infinity on my old GPO megger tester which I use to measure them. The only other ones which actually work are the reproduction Rolls Royce condensors (quite expensive compared to less than a fiver for the Remax) or new old stock Lucas ones on ebay which *don't* come in a green box!!

I have Lucas ones, Ponts and condenser that came in a green box, but have never fitted these before and gapped points so not overly sure what to do.

I don't own a timing light, and have never timed and engine.

I know that all four leads are working fine, but when I pulled plugs 2 & 3 out of the engine it made no difference in terms of cutting out. Plugs 1 & 4 both cut out straight away, and both plugs are dry.

I only drove it about a 4 miles round trip as my neighbour decided to block me in again while working on his own car and thats wasn't going anywhere fast. Its been running, just very poorly, I don't know if it will start again when its cooled down, I can only check this on Saturday as have no time tomorrow.

Just checked out that Burghfield place for when the time comes, that looks pretty good for when the starter motor needs a refurb one day.

1997 Discovery said:

I have Lucas ones, Ponts and condenser that came in a green box, but have never fitted these before and gapped points so not overly sure what to do.

I don't own a timing light, and have never timed and engine.

I know that all four leads are working fine, but when I pulled plugs 2 & 3 out of the engine it made no difference in terms of cutting out. Plugs 1 & 4 both cut out straight away, and both plugs are dry.

I only drove it about a 4 miles round trip as my neighbour decided to block me in again while working on his own car and thats wasn't going anywhere fast. Its been running, just very poorly, I don't know if it will start again when its cooled down, I can only check this on Saturday as have no time tomorrow.

Just checked out that Burghfield place for when the time comes, that looks pretty good for when the starter motor needs a refurb one day.

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I'm afraid that few of the brand names which you could trust even a decade ago actually carry much weight these days.
Condensors are best sourced from Remax.... search for the Green Spark Plug company
Coils come from Powerspark (yes they do points type too), NGK or Beru
Points, rotor arms and distributor caps come from Distributor Doctor

Failing all this by new (very) old stock on ebay.

When you fit your new points you will need to degrease them to get rid of the anti - corrosive packing lubricant... carb cleaner, brake cleaner or methylated spirits works great. Never clean points with sandpaper or emery cloth because some of the abrasive will get left behind and b*gg^r things up: Only use a clean new 2nd cut file for cleaning points. Find "high cam" by turning the engine until the points are open as wide as they get. Experiment by moving the rotor (cam) in its free play to see whether or not the points are as wide as they will ever get. Then set the points gap with a feeler gauge to the middle of the specified range. The feeler gauge should just pass through the gap without being remotely tight nor slack. Then run the engine and give it a drive for a few miles. Reset the points again after driving and be really thorough about getting exactly the right gap. Lubricate the distributor cam with grease at this stage - unless you have a distributor with a felt pad which presses against the cam in which case lubricate the felt pad with a little oil. Also lubricate the rotor beneath the rotor arm with a little oil on top of the felt pad (which hopefully is still fitted - if not then drop oil straight onto the screw beneath the rotor arm). If you are confident in your work then that's it. You can check the ignition timing afterwards if you want. If in any doubt then connect a dwell meter and re-adjust the points to give the correct dwell angle. If you have six cylinders or less then you don't really need the dwell meter if you have set the points accurately. If you have a V8 then you won't get it running properly without setting the dwell angle with the proper meter. Thoroughness is everything! I generally reckon to get 10,000 miles out of a properly set up points system before replacement... dual points set up can approach double this depending on distributor.

Would the ignition system though make the car cut out while its being driven though?

How was it running before it cut out? Was there a lack power? Or did it run really lumpy n rough? Ditto eliminate spark plugs by simple test described. If its sparking OK n it's running really rough it's something mechanical. Timing could be badly out (worn timing gear n chain). Is the head converted for unleaded? Worn valves n seats?

Running had not changed before cutting out, still lumpy due to only working on two cylinders This was the same before I changed, plugs, leads, cap and rotor arm as I hoped that this would solve the issue but it hadnt.
Plugs are sparking fine, so compression test is next I think.
Head is still the orginal and has never been off before, so still set for leaded petrol, I have been using an addidtive, but over the last 15 years or so, I dont think this has been happening.
Valve seats im hoping, though I think head gasket is a possiable to. If head has to come off and thats all it is, it will be sent off to have a refurb and convereted for unleaded.
If it is more severe like a cracked piston, then I suppose a new refubed engine, and at the same time a bulkhead to.

I did put quarter of tank of fuel in only two days ago, and have not used it much since then. I will check the obvious after work tonight, as didnt have time yesterday. If that is what has caused it, then 10litres for about 10-15 miles is not what I call economical

Interested to see the compression test. A bit of a conundrum you've got there.

As soon as its done I post the results on here, as I am sure I be asking the next question after that

Hi,

I had popping and poor running from a Britpart coil. A misleading eBay seller, 'quality part' fortunately it failed completely after 3 months use; the last week being the popping and poor running. Wondering if your new battery has upset an old coil pack?

You can test the coil by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. A more basic diagnosis with a spark plug and pliers.

http://www.series123.com/UKhomepages/index101/

Lucas if you do fit a new coil, not the black Britpart one shown!

Hello All, thanks for all the replies and support.

Good news is that all the plugs are sparking when held close to the engine block.

Bad News - Did the compressor test, with the pieces that you screw in to the plugs, rather than just hold and push. Cylinders 1 & 4 both gave a reading of 120, which isn't bad for a 44 year old head that have never come off, however, both 2 & 3 gave a reading of about 5.

So I am thinking at the moment the next thing to check would be the head gasket. But while the head is off I was going to send it away to have it referred with new valves, and made so it runs happier on unleaded fuel. I have seen a company locally that will do this for me called Turner Engineering, which is highly recommended, but they are not cheap. Has anyone else used them of suggest any others, ideally in either the Gatwick Airport or Norwich regions would be best for me.

Thanks again

Nigel

Turner usually get the nod for quality. Don't be surprised to find burnt out valves when you pull the head. If the seats are reasonable any local engine rebuilder can re cut the seats ready to lap the valves; then carry on with the additive. Turner could gas flow and skim your head to improve things but it hurts the wallet.

Thanks, I do some research and go from there on this one, this is of course assuming there no further damage to the pistons or engine block etc

Just seeing if anyone has ever heard or used a company called Bensham Engineering Ltd, who are based in Croydon.

They specialise in engine rebuilds, but not sure if they are Land Rover specific like Turners Engineering. Also can not seem to find a website for them just an address and telephone number.