shunter v8

shunter v8

Active Member
I seem to have my gearbox and brake pad warning faults sorted now, it turned out to be the inhibitor switch on the gearbox that was bringing up the failsafe mode. All was going well until today when I got a puncture I got the car lifted but the Jack did not look very stable and as I was gently centering the wheel using the nuts and the jack folded in half luckily I had the spare wheel on. I have a decent trolley Jack at home and need a new one for the car but see no point in buying another one made of toffee, any recommendations of a decent one I can buy to keep in the car. Thanks.
 
A P38 Hydraulic jack is pretty sturdy, not sure if it is suitable for the L322 though. Plenty available from breakers.
 
Or a small trolley jack. Again, if suitable.
BUT. As with all jacks best to take precautions against collapse or failure - even if that's only putting the wheel under the vehicle.
 
Considering what it took to pop mine a P38 bottle should be plenty strong enough and quite small when retracted.
 
They are rated for 2T I believe
3D4A1F9A-8834-4FE9-ABB4-D9DD009F4FC8.jpeg
 
It looks like the one I got with my Disco2. It failed on me due to oil loss from a seal or seals. Fortunately on my drive. Trusted the one on my Disco 1 but that one was stored vertically, the D2 one is stored horizontally, don't know if that made the difference. Since I topped it up with hydraulic oil and stored it vertically in the boot locker...it leaked a bit again. I thus carry a smallish trolley jack around with me at all times. Pain stowing it but at least it means I can change a tyre if nec without worrying about the jack letting go. Maybe an aftermarket bottle jack could be the answer. they take up less room than a trolley. I'd love to rebuild my LR jack but no one seems to know where to get the seal(s) from.
 
freelance said:
Get them from a hydraulic hose factor, the seals should have numbers on them
Click to expand...
Have to admit, since I refilled it and it started working propa, I left it alone.
Then noticed it leaking again.
Will have to pull it apart and see if I can see the numbers on the seals.
anyone pulled one apart and can give me the best way of doing it? Want to avoid any silly mistakes.
:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
So that might not be the answer it may be best to get an aftermarket bottle Jack. The P38 Jack looks to be a good size has anyone else had any problems with the P38 Jack.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
It looks like the one I got with my Disco2. It failed on me due to oil loss from a seal or seals. Fortunately on my drive. Trusted the one on my Disco 1 but that one was stored vertically, the D2 one is stored horizontally, don't know if that made the difference. Since I topped it up with hydraulic oil and stored it vertically in the boot locker...it leaked a bit again. I thus carry a smallish trolley jack around with me at all times. Pain stowing it but at least it means I can change a tyre if nec without worrying about the jack letting go. Maybe an aftermarket bottle jack could be the answer. they take up less room than a trolley. I'd love to rebuild my LR jack but no one seems to know where to get the seal(s) from.
Click to expand...

I thought I had an oil leak on my D2, turned out to be the jack :rolleyes:
 
shunter v8 said:
So that might not be the answer it may be best to get an aftermarket bottle Jack. The P38 Jack looks to be a good size has anyone else had any problems with the P38 Jack.
Click to expand...
When I got mine it wouldn't hold any weight, filled it with oil and seems fine now. But I haven't had to use it in anger yet. I have a 3t trolley jack in the garage.
 
Only issue with the P38 jack, is the top is rounded to go around the beam axle.

On the L322 to change a single wheel/tyre assembly, you can either jack on the sill pads, but you need a long travel jack for that, or using a piece of wood to spread the load, jack under the lower wishbone - but you MUST use something to spread the load. In this place, the travel doesn't need to be as far, as all you are doing is lifting the wheel off the ground instead of the whole body of the car up the suspension travel, and then the wheel.
 
That's good to know thanks, I will have a look to see what height the bottle Jack's lift to see if they will lift on the sill pads.
 
I have/had a screw jack in the back of my P38, far more reliable, and trustworthy ;)
 
shunter v8 said:
That's good to know thanks, I will have a look to see what height the bottle Jack's lift to see if they will lift on the sill pads.
Click to expand...
The P38 jack will not lift the wheel clear on the sill pads unless you put the car to wade height and use a big block of wood under the jack. It is strong and reliable, I have 3 of them, it should work as Saint says with a spreader under the wishbone.
 
Many thanks, I found a good quality (I hope) scissor Jack so I have ordered one only time will tell if it's up to the job but the manufacturer assures me it is.
 
Saint.V8 said:
Only issue with the P38 jack, is the top is rounded to go around the beam axle.

On the L322 to change a single wheel/tyre assembly, you can either jack on the sill pads, but you need a long travel jack for that, or using a piece of wood to spread the load, jack under the lower wishbone - but you MUST use something to spread the load. In this place, the travel doesn't need to be as far, as all you are doing is lifting the wheel off the ground instead of the whole body of the car up the suspension travel, and then the wheel.
Click to expand...
This advice is a fantastic example of why LZ is the best Landy forum on the Internet!
 
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