dearot said:
There might be a small leak on the expansion tank cap that release more pressure than it should be. So the cooling system doesnt flow properly. KV6 thermostat is different to normal thermostat (look for thread where MHM posted pictures of it) I think I posted all relevant links above and no one understand how it actually works ( I am still waiting reply from powertrain for explanation). Common problem with Hippo. Try to replace the cap first.

As far as I know but I could be wrong there is no remote thermostat for KV6. Correct - although I am led to believe that the 1.8 one would work - its removing the KV6 one that is the problem.

I was thinking of bypass to make the engine even more cooler plus EWP would be great addition as well. Look for thread about HGF. You dont want to cool the engine too much otherwise acid condensation forms within the lower block - just try and keep it a uniform temperature.

I also put Redline Water Wetter (blue) and somehow it uses less petrol but maybe just my imagination. Its only been there for two weeks. I will wait and see. Water wetter is supposed to reduce the water/air barrier and reduce cavitation - a known problem.

Some people cut the under tray to allow more cool air go inside the engine bay. Might worth a try too like you said you not worry about water. I am not convinced more air inside the engine bay is the answer - how about a "reverse air scoop" ie - a vent at the rear of the bonnet to allow hot air to escape and draw cooling air past the engine to cool the rear bank more?
Click to expand...

A new expansion tank cap is a good idea - so is replacement with the later type which has a low water level sensor.
Sorry guys - i am still convinced an EWP is the way to go - to keep the coolant at a uniform temperature with the ability to continue to pump after engine switch off - I know its not exactly a cheap option - but neither is a new engine!:eek:
 
OK, so I got out in the heat today for a bit, at 6:30am - Temp was about 75 degrees. No trouble, as always. Cooler weather agrees with the little beastie.

My second run was about tem iles in traffic at around 9:30 - Temp was about 85 degrees. A little warmer, but still no troubles.

My last run was at 12:30, and its 93 degrees and 50% humidity. Hot and sticky outside, but no troubles. Sat at stoplights and in crosstown traffic. It did, however get a little sluggish on the hills ( Tulsa is Very hilly ) in the low gears, making me wonder if the heat isn't catching up with me.

I will leave work between 3:30 and 4pm today, when it should be around 97 to 100 degrees outside. That will be a real test.

So far, though, I have seen a bit of an improvement.

I do wonder if a vent on the topside of the engine would do good, though... I would like to get more air circulating in that compartment. I also have the opinion that the huge, metal clad engine shroud have a vent in the top side as well - whaddya think, too agressive?

I have also been checking into different coolant... check out this link, let me know what you think: Evans Cooling Systems, Inc. High Performance Engine Cooling and Power Production.

I have been emailing the rep back and forth for the last two days... I am darn near sold on this stuff.

Anyway, back to work. I will post my findings as I go.

JR
 
I was thinking to remove that foam thingy under the bonnet so the heat at least can dissipate thru...Maybe just leave some on top of the battery...
 
I will have to send you a picture of the giant lead-lined bomb proof shroud on the top of me manifold.... It doesn't sound like we have the same thing going on.
 
I had a similar prob with an Isuzu Trooper AUTOMATIC transmition, If the gearbox oil is due to be changed, change it and the filter, could be some kind of overheat cut out, thermal re-setting.
 
Jrdinger said:
I will have to send you a picture of the giant lead-lined bomb proof shroud on the top of me manifold.... It doesn't sound like we have the same thing going on.
Click to expand...

I think have we exactly the same...thats why I havent taken it off mine till now...:D
 
Well, If I were you I would let me be the test pilot on this one. I have had a better week than most with the Freebie, but whether the change is permanent or not remains to be seen.

If I gets to cuttin' on mah injun, and it do me sum good.... I will let yer know.

Good Lord, now I'M doing it...
 
Eyup Jrdinger
If its any help my(or my wifes at least)car a Renault Megane hadthe same problem turned oot to be oneof the coils.Soon as i replace this everythingwas fine(fingers crossed still)
 
Thanks for the tip. I will test the coils.

Dearot, I dont know If I will have to cut a vent in the shroud just yet. It seems to be behaving after I put the water wetter in and pulled the splash guards out. I will probably do it, if for no other reason than to even the temps out accross the enginem (hopefully).

I did take it for an extended run yesterday afternoon, and it didn't stall, but it did get a little sluggish at the bottom of hills. I think it was close to 100 degrees outside when I ran it around the city.

So far it has behaved much better, but I will take the advice I have been given and have the coils checked. I also need to pull the fuel pump out and check the little filter bag at the bottom and see if I dont have any gunk in there.
 
good to hear that urs is behaving better now. with fuel filter, i dont think it causes the car to stall. its got nothing to do with overheat but since you dont have to spend $$...why not. good to check anyway...good luck. please updates us ...

Btw, FYI...I added air engine oil cooler last year. I dont use the stock oil cooler anymore, I use it as a heat sink (sort of) for the coolant.
 
You know, I saw one of those the other day as I was trolling through the local auto parts store, and I wondered if it might help. Those units are a lot less expensive than I thought they would be... I guess that why I didn't jump right in and buy one...sounded too good to be true.

Did you just cap off the lines for the coolant going into the block? And, where did mount the new unit? I didn't see a spot under there that really jumped out at me, and I worry about ground clearance when I am out in the sticks.
 
If you want you can reroute the oil line from the existing cooler to new unit and back to the block (on top of oil filter).
I put the unit behind the bumper just under the power steering oil cooler. I put it upside down, connector at the bottom. Should put the otherway around but dont have time yet. Not really the best place to put but. I use a small oil cooler cant remember how many line but it just fit behind the bumper
 
OK, fellas... I gave it's worst torture test to date... I made seven full runs in the 100 degree heat and she didn't stall. HOWEVER,

She did try to give up on my on trip number seven coming back to the house on a big hill that crosses the highway by my house. I got midway up the hill, and it started hunting like crazy, and I had to back off the gas and just accelerate very steadily and slowly.

That being said, the car did make it, so this weekend I plan on changing the oil and getting a high flow air filter before I grab the hacksaw and cut "custom" bonnet vents....

So far, much improved, but..

I STILL have eels in my hovercraft!
 
After many weeks of troubles with the Freelander, I thinks I have found the trouble.... I want to road test it some more before I post the step - by - step ( pics included ) fix.
 
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