miktdish

Guns n Chainsaws

• Yesterday at 07:49

• #21

Well done you have narrowed down the fault on your 25+ year old engine to either the water pump or the PAS pump.

If I were you I would treat the engine to an OEM quality replacement of both items which would do you for another 15 to 20+ years (they don't make them as good as they used too). No need to buy from Landrover, other brands are available but avoid the cheaspest you can find....

On reassembly use new bolts/fittings and smear with 'Alluslip'.

 

Last edited: Yesterday at 09:42

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Anaconda

Well-Known Member

• Yesterday at 09:38

• #22

patrickr90 said:

Yes, it's a good time to do it. I had wanted to do cambelt myself but new to this vehicle so don't want to stuff anything up on such a mission critical job. I've also developed a recent phobia of shearing bolts and I gather there's potential for this with changing the water pump. I'm sure I'll get over it!

Click to expand...

My son made a decision to pay a specialist to do his cambelt, worst decision ever! It has been an endless drama since putting right their f××× ups since. The potential to go wrong is there regardless of you doing it or not, ether way it costs you. Bolts should not be a problem if the cambelt has been changed per spec. Ok I found it a bit stressful, not having done it before, learned some things as I went along, made some mistakes most likely but atleast my time is free.
Had to replace the timing chest twice, return a faulty oem belt kit for refund, make the specialist replace the original parts they broke and then write a letter with regards to small claims court for ongoing costs putting it right.
Apart from that it all went well!

 

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Anaconda

Well-Known Member

• Yesterday at 09:42

• #23

With regards to the noise, have the water pump replaced with the cambelt. If the noise is still there you can change the pas pump yourself at a later date if you are happy doing it.

 

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patrickr90

Member

• Today at 06:36

• #24

Just to give you an update, I changed the drive belts for new ones yesterday and started up. No noise! Fingers crossed, I'll check again today for any noises. However, after running for less than 10 minutes, the termperature gauge was climbing pretty quickly towards the red! The engine case feels hot to touch. The top water pipes feel warm, the bottom ones cold. This could be an overheating issue, or connected with my other post (I've been working on the instrument panel) - it could be still an earth problem with the temp gauge? Some people say that the earth cable is only for the instrument lights? Anyway, I don't want to drive it not knowing whether it's a gauge problem or a genuine overheating problem.

 

Last edited: Today at 07:05

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Wildefalcon

Well-Known Member

• Today at 09:32

• #25

Gauges are unreliable in accuracy, but good for a trend. If the lower hose is cold then it's probably okay, assuming the thermostat opens.

The voltage regulator in the dash needs an earth and is essential for gauge operation.

 

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patrickr90

Member

• Today at 12:38

• #26

It seems my problem here has morphed into another one. The good news is that it wasn't the sound of the water pump failing. The not so good news is that it's the starter getting stuck on the flywheel. That explains the sound continuing briefly after engine shut off. It doesn't happen every time. Maybe I should open a new thread...

 

steve2286w

Well-Known Member

• Today at 13:46

• #27

Starters easy to remove, clean and test