Well, that was a bit expensive (£75 + P&P) and rather disappointing. :(
The replacement fusebox arrived this morning, I have changed it over and while it is all "char-free" with a full complement of un-burnt relays and shiny fuses it has made absolutely no difference to the situation.
As soon as the engine is running the cyclic clicking of relays begins and the low-fuel and overtemp alarms light.
As I have disconnected the battery all of the windows want re-setting and I notice that as we go through the relay-clicking sequence the power to the windows is turned on & off too (but I would expect that if there was a "reset" signal being sent or generated from somewhere).
I have no idea what is going on.

Maybe there's a clue in 3rd line above ?? What does the alternator output look like ?
 
In all my time as an electrical engineer, every single fault that has caused weird things to happen has been caused by a bad earth (in cars) or missing neutral (domestic and industrial)
I'd be checking every single earthing point you can. Go over it with a fine toothcomb!
For example, windscreen wipers working at full speed on my old granada constantly even with ignition off was traced to the earth of the reversing light switch melting to the exhaust. Don't ask me how that made the wipers run at full speed as I have no idea.
Good luck.
 
Maybe there's a clue in 3rd line above ?? What does the alternator output look like ?
Hi,
Alternator Volts are 14.43V with engine idling c.750/800 which is what i would expect.
Taking the battery in to Hal-Frauds (4yr Warranty) tomorrow for a discharge test and possible replacement.
 
In all my time as an electrical engineer, every single fault that has caused weird things to happen has been caused by a bad earth (in cars) or missing neutral (domestic and industrial)
I'd be checking every single earthing point you can. Go over it with a fine toothcomb!
For example, windscreen wipers working at full speed on my old granada constantly even with ignition off was traced to the earth of the reversing light switch melting to the exhaust. Don't ask me how that made the wipers run at full speed as I have no idea.
Good luck.
Thanks for the steer, will take a look at the earthing.
 
while the battery is of pull the becm plugs one by one and give them a spray of contact cleaner and a wiggle around, just because you can't feel damp it may have been at some point,.
I opened my trusty workshop Manual and it said remove the drivers seat to gain access to the BECM........ Whaaaatt!
OMG, this just gets worse and worse LOL.
 
you can access most of the connectors just by moving the seat fully back or forwards.

But it's only four bolts to remove it.
 
In all my time as an electrical engineer, every single fault that has caused weird things to happen has been caused by a bad earth (in cars) or missing neutral (domestic and industrial)
I'd be checking every single earthing point you can. Go over it with a fine toothcomb!
For example, windscreen wipers working at full speed on my old granada constantly even with ignition off was traced to the earth of the reversing light switch melting to the exhaust. Don't ask me how that made the wipers run at full speed as I have no idea.
Good luck.

That'll be the reversing-wiper bridging current adapter.
 
I opened my trusty workshop Manual and it said remove the drivers seat to gain access to the BECM........ Whaaaatt!
OMG, this just gets worse and worse LOL.

The grey surround pops off with a few screws to give access to the plugs. Doubt you'll spot much inside.
 
Hi,
Alternator Volts are 14.43V with engine idling c.750/800 which is what i would expect.
Taking the battery in to Hal-Frauds (4yr Warranty) tomorrow for a discharge test and possible replacement.

Was that with the headlights and fans full on?
 
you can access most of the connectors just by moving the seat fully back or forwards.

But it's only four bolts to remove it.
I know, but I'm post surgery and trying to avoid awkward or heavy lifting. But needs must I suppose.
 
So, the nice Halfords folks have (albeit reluctantly) given me a replacement battery.
Their little non-load tester said the battery was fine but I pointed out that it keeps dying on me and that the colour dot "health indicator" says "needs charging" even though I had just taken it off charge before leaving home for their store.
The "NEW" one says "Healthy and Fully Charged". Go figure.
Will install it tomorrow and eradicate it from the puzzle.
 
did you notice any bulging on the battery sides? Usually a failed cell that drains the healthy ones!
it'll charge but with less stamina...
it is a bit crap we seem to pay more for batteries and get less life from them... :(:mad:
 
did you notice any bulging on the battery sides? Usually a failed cell that drains the healthy ones!
it'll charge but with less stamina...
it is a bit crap we seem to pay more for batteries and get less life from them... :(:mad:
Hi Mark,
It looked as clean and tidy and square as the day it went in there 15 months ago TBH. Hoping that it is just another piece of the puzzle eradicated at this point. :D
 
suppose the indicator was the only physical give away!!
when you've fitted the battery if the symptoms persist nurse!! Load test your alternator while idling the beast! You should see an increase as the alternator compensates for the demand. High beams, rear demist heater on full blast. If there's no reaction then you alternator could be faulty.. That is if you've maybe not tried yet! Not teaching to suck eggs :)
 
Well, if it is the alternator it will be the third one this vehicle has eaten.
The original "factory" one, the first replacement (lasted 6 mnths and was replaced FOC by the maintainer that fitted it) and now this one?
I would not have ever considered alternators to be a "consumable" like tyres and batteries or wiper blades, they are 90A units and are meant to last a long, long time.
But, as you say, it is worth a test to see if it can cope with the full load or not. Thanks for chipping in, it is definitely another thing to eradicate.
 
holy crap batman!! Hopefully just the battery was the bad apple!!! Jesus! In years to come we'll be driving rice paper cars that decompose at the side of the road if left out in the rain?? Only for the council to need to collect some copper, the batteries and a motor..:p
earth straps' and the live feeds to your replacement fuse board.
ive read of people achieving good results from soldering into the crimped ends on their leads..
any corrosion on the earth points maybe??o_O
 
OK, Rangie 1 Danny 0. Still no fix.
Brand New Battery installed 12.75V at the terminals. - So it was not the battery.
All lights and accessories on and with engine running 14.3V at the battery terminals. - So it is unlikely to be the alternator which seems to be coping with loads OK.
Still going through this start-up relay cycle of doing a full reset, then Fuel & Overheat alarms On. Then these alarms go out, then there is another full reset and the cycle repeats, but only when the engine is running, if you don't start up it just sits there behaving itself.
Is there a step-chart or similar that describes a normal "start-up to running"sequence?
Drivers seat out next and play with the BECM plugs. Gahhhhhhh!
 
OK, Rangie 1 Danny 0. Still no fix.
Brand New Battery installed 12.75V at the terminals. - So it was not the battery.
All lights and accessories on and with engine running 14.3V at the battery terminals. - So it is unlikely to be the alternator which seems to be coping with loads OK.
Still going through this start-up relay cycle of doing a full reset, then Fuel & Overheat alarms On. Then these alarms go out, then there is another full reset and the cycle repeats, but only when the engine is running, if you don't start up it just sits there behaving itself.
Is there a step-chart or similar that describes a normal "start-up to running"sequence?
Drivers seat out next and play with the BECM plugs. Gahhhhhhh!

If you play with BECM plugs make sure battery is disconnected first.
 

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