Yes that makes sense since pins 8 & 9 feed the immobiliser and alternator.
I would have thought this was saying it goes to pin 2 but it's before the contact so doesn't match your results. I'm confused :confused:

upload_2023-1-26_18-59-27.png
 
It appears there's another contact in the ignition switch to pin 2 so yes you should get a short from pin 6 to pins 2 & 9, and from 9 to 2.


upload_2023-1-26_19-23-7.png
 
Lezley said:
Finally with the key held in the start position I get I get same results on Terminal 2 and 6 and 6 and 9 and also between terminals 8 and 5
Click to expand...

I'd say this is the cct you're interested in as this appears to be the crank cct.
 
Thanks for the info, nice cold morning here -5 but the old girl started ok. I have put my test meter into Ohms on the 200 setting and tested between the terminals at each key position.

2 and 6 reading 00.8
9 and 6 reading 00.8
8 and 5 reading 00.8

If I press the test probes together off the switch I get 00.6 so I guess the resistances isn't that high in the switch. Wiggling the key has no affect on the readings but there isn't really much play there at all.

As I said she is working this morning so the fault isn't present so maybe the readings are as expected?
 
Just thinking out loud here.....

When it wouldn't start I was getting the following error code in the immobiliser section:

B1103-14 Enable Crank relay short to ground or relay always open - intermittent

I cleared this but it comes back when it won't start. Now it will start I cleared and it hasn't come back yet.

The ignition switch must work as even when it won't crank the immobiliser module makes a noise whilst the key is in the crank position and stops when you release it.

Could the relay be the issue not the switch
 
in the diagram it looks like the enable crank signal comes from the ignition switch so that's where I would be looking (as you are doing) but the diagram is confusing me with the relay.
It's probably just a standard fault code that lot's of manufacturers use.
IMO either one of these (B1103-14 Enable Crank relay short to ground or relay always open - intermittent) would stop the crank signal getting to the ECU.


upload_2023-1-27_13-44-36.png
 
Yup understand what you are saying but all three stages of the ignition switch appear to work even when the crank doesn't happen.

Stage one works as stereo ect comes on.
Stage two works as dash lights come on, glow plug timer works.
Stage three does something as the immobiliser makes a sound when the key is put in crank position. Also the car detects that it hasn't cranked hence the fault registered.

If the switch had failed the crank position would create nothing so thr immobiliser wouldn't make a sound and the fault wouldn't get registered.

If I get a chance this afternoon I will go for a run then turn the thing off and back on and see if it breaks again. If it does at least I will be able to repeat tests in fault conditions. If not I might have to suck it and see for bit if it goes bad again.
 
Lezley said:
Stage three does something as the immobiliser makes a sound when the key is put in crank position. Also the car detects that it hasn't cranked hence the fault registered.
Click to expand...

Is that the actual immobiliser next to the key or just the gazuby that detects the key?
 
When I say immobiliser I mean the white box next to the ignition assembly towards the rear of the car under the centre console. I admit this is just what I heard it called on the YouTube video I watched to find the hidden screws holding the console in. I will take a picture of it in the morning to confirm
 
I came to put everything back together, thought I would test the ignition as I bolted things back together, first step was ignition switch into the centre console, after fitting it wouldn't crank. Tried to record the noise it makes and it turned over and started, wiggled the wires under the ignition switch and again it wouldn't crank, tried to record it and the car started. The problem seems to be related to where I propped the centre console up to try to record the noise. I took the ignition assembly out again and then removed the barrel from the switch, tested the resistance, this time using newly acquired crocodile clip leads, this time I was getting 3.6Ohms on the ignition contacts and 2.5Ohms on the other contacts. As I know I can get a switch fairly easily I decided to take the cover off the top and then remove the drum that activates the different contacts, there was a build up of carbon on the ignition contact, see attached. I cleaned the contacts with some contact cleaner, reassembled and tested, this time got 1.5Ohms on all contacts, this is approaching the resistance of the crocodile leads.

I have put it all back together testing it would crank all the way and it would, fingers crossed that was the problem and it is now sorted, I guess only time will tell.

Thanks to everyone who commented and suggested where to look and what to do, without that I would still be fishing around in the dark.
 

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Lezley said:
I came to put everything back together, thought I would test the ignition as I bolted things back together, first step was ignition switch into the centre console, after fitting it wouldn't crank. Tried to record the noise it makes and it turned over and started, wiggled the wires under the ignition switch and again it wouldn't crank, tried to record it and the car started. The problem seems to be related to where I propped the centre console up to try to record the noise. I took the ignition assembly out again and then removed the barrel from the switch, tested the resistance, this time using newly acquired crocodile clip leads, this time I was getting 3.6Ohms on the ignition contacts and 2.5Ohms on the other contacts. As I know I can get a switch fairly easily I decided to take the cover off the top and then remove the drum that activates the different contacts, there was a build up of carbon on the ignition contact, see attached. I cleaned the contacts with some contact cleaner, reassembled and tested, this time got 1.5Ohms on all contacts, this is approaching the resistance of the crocodile leads.

I have put it all back together testing it would crank all the way and it would, fingers crossed that was the problem and it is now sorted, I guess only time will tell.

Thanks to everyone who commented and suggested where to look and what to do, without that I would still be fishing around in the dark.
Click to expand...
Well done. For security, personally I would replace the switch because the heating caused by the arcing that has led to the build up of burnt deposits may have reduced the contact pressure so it will fail again.
 
^ +1. That contact does look a lot thinner than the other 2. Looks like it's burnt away, but then it is connected via a 60amp fuse.
 
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