brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Have you cleaned and checked all the connector pins in the eas box and ecu , you can lock it at motorway height, I run mine in that all the time
UPDATE.
Sorry for lack of posts but been busy recently, I'll list everything below that I've the car tried and the results I've had from the beginning to save people from reading from the first post.
Car purchased with springs fitted.
New airbags fitted, airlines repaired, compressor and valve block re-built.
New relays fitted to eas. (suspension worked briefly then dropped)
Removed delay timer to prove leaks - leaks found and sorted.
Compressor seized so new fitted - Compressor briefly runs correctly and then just judders as though something is switching it on and off.
Found white plugs behind passenger kick panel corroded so cut out an soldered up (compressor issue still the same)
New driver pack installed (compressor issue still the same)
Fitted 2nd new EAS relay as suspect first one failed due to constant start/stop of comp.
Fitted new pressure switch (just thought it was worth a try even though tested ok)
Tested thermal fuse in compressor and found to be Ok.
EAS unlock software put on car and no faults showing
That's were I'm up to now , I don't use the car every day so when its needed I can bridge the relay to run the compressor before I use the car and the EAS seems to work fine, its just driving me mad that it want run when needed. When I do use it I travel on the motorway a lot so even going back up to standard height from motorway height a few times soon empties the air receiver. As far as I can tell (and I'm learning every time I go near this car) the only component left is the ECU itself, is this something that could cause these issues and is it easily swapped/programmed or am I barking up the wrong tree altogether.
Again thanks for all t he help to get this far.
Paul
Sorry for being quiet ,I have a spare driver pack in the garage you could have borrowed, you said you had to bridge the yellow relay to get the compressor to run. How about a faulty fuse box,a common fault.
I was having probe with our easy about 6 months ago kept throwing up faults would work OK for about a week or so and after changing all the sensors pressure switch and other bits and bobs I got hold of a second hand driver pack and haven't had any problems since. Try a different driver pack as I've heard that they can become damaged internally from the heat. Hope you get sorted soon as air is much better than springs.
Which relay was he bridging? Shouldn't have come in halfway through the post I just saw somebody taking my name in vain and calling me plastic. Been knackered since the weekend .A working driver pack has nothing at all to do with compressor circuit. Compressor circuit is self contained. When pressure switch shows low pressure, ECU pulls relay to start compressor and this also powers diaphragm solenoid to apply pressure to bottom of diaphragm to seal it.. When pressure switch shows high pressure ECU drops relay to switch compressor off, power is removed from diaphragm solenoid, air from below diaphragm holding it closed is vented into the loom via 4 mm pipe and high pressure air is vented past diaphragm to atmosphere, as same gallery is used for filling tank and venting from bags. That is why if when compressor is running and a lower height is selected. The compressor stops and high pressure air is vented before any air can be vented from bags to lower car. Although it has been known for a duff driver pack to upset the ECU and cause all manner of problems because of electrical feed back.
Which relay was he bridging? Shouldn't have come in halfway through the post I just saw somebody taking my name in vain and calling me plastic. Been knackered since the weekend .
Just a thought, how was the pressure switch tested? Is it possible that the spring inside it is broken/weak so that a tiny amount of pressure is enough to switch it? Seems to me that it's either the switch or the wiring to it if it runs when the relay is bridged.
Correct. If there are no faults showing like pressure constantly high, which is usually down to duff driver pack interfering with ECU. Then it can only be down to pressure switch sending wrong data or the connections to it not making properly. Or of course the thermal switch being intermittent for same reasons. Maybe checking the ground point on the N/S inner wing would be an idea. Duff ECUs are rare but of course all is possible.
Yes new compressor which still works fine when it runs and thankfully no leaks at the minute.Think his compressor is new? Unless he cooked it feeding a leak?
I fitted a new pressure switch (seemed like a good idea at the time) this seems to test out fine switching as required with my meter across it.Just a thought, how was the pressure switch tested? Is it possible that the spring inside it is broken/weak so that a tiny amount of pressure is enough to switch it? Seems to me that it's either the switch or the wiring to it if it runs when the relay is bridged.