blueovalcraig
Active Member
Thoroughly enjoyed reading this
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Thank you, there’s plenty of plans yet to come so watch this space!
blueovalcraig
Active Member
It’s quite similar to my ‘new’ one
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Basically the same, It looks like an ES Premium going by the wheels, the same as mine.
I was tempted by the same roof rack but wanted one that is totally flat to keep the option of a roof tent open in the future.
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Another day hard at work on/under the truck, I've finally got around to replacing the power steering pump! 
It wasn't as bad as I expected, probably took an hour & half to two hours ish. Hopefully that is the end of my steering problems! I think almost all the pipes have been replaced, the steering box half the ball joints etc and now the pump. It's essentially a new steering system!
At the same time, I replaced the top coolant hose which arrived with the steering pump from JSG 4x4. A fairly easy job again and I'm hoping that will be the end of my coolant leak...
Both these jobs were made much easier by removing the viscous fan which is easy with the "special" tool from JSG 4x4. They're not expensive in the first place but invaluable with how easy they make jobs in that area of the engine bay.
I've also done about 3-400 miles since the first auto 'box ATF change so I've changed that again, still coming out a pretty horrid colour so there's probably going to be at least a couple more changes before I do the filter in the sump... I don't know when this truck last had a good service but it's having a thorough looking after now!
It wasn't as bad as I expected, probably took an hour & half to two hours ish. Hopefully that is the end of my steering problems! I think almost all the pipes have been replaced, the steering box half the ball joints etc and now the pump. It's essentially a new steering system!
At the same time, I replaced the top coolant hose which arrived with the steering pump from JSG 4x4. A fairly easy job again and I'm hoping that will be the end of my coolant leak...
Both these jobs were made much easier by removing the viscous fan which is easy with the "special" tool from JSG 4x4. They're not expensive in the first place but invaluable with how easy they make jobs in that area of the engine bay.
I've also done about 3-400 miles since the first auto 'box ATF change so I've changed that again, still coming out a pretty horrid colour so there's probably going to be at least a couple more changes before I do the filter in the sump... I don't know when this truck last had a good service but it's having a thorough looking after now!
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Another job that should have been simple...
I had the new ‘timing case seal’ breather kit arrive yesterday so decided to fit it today before a late shift in work.
https://fourby.co.uk/epages/950004277.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectID=48300116
Looking at the job it should have been a five minute job to undo the two bolts holding the loom to the front of the block, remove the old seal (that was already falling out) fit the new “seal” which is actually an aluminium plug with an ‘o’ ring that is held in place by a metal strap that goes under the two aforementioned bolts. This then has an over sized push fit pipe fitting (think suspension airbag) that the breather pipe goes into and then to your choice of location.
The problem was that the ally plug is too thick to fit behind the EGR cooler so that had to be removed first but to get to the lower bolts of the cooler, I had to remove the viscous fan. Thankfully I had the spanner from doing the power steering pump! So a five-ten minute job took about an hour all in! Hopefully it will mean no more leaking from there.
I can’t say as I like the blue pipe, that will be getting changed for a black pipe. I need to look around for a oil breather catch tank at some point for both this new breather and the head cover breather. Any ideas/suggestions appreciated.
I’ve also attacked the head/block with some “green gunk” and I’m amazed at how much better it all looks! From now on, every time I remove anything from the engine it will all be treated with gunk!! Great stuff!
I had the new ‘timing case seal’ breather kit arrive yesterday so decided to fit it today before a late shift in work.
https://fourby.co.uk/epages/950004277.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectID=48300116
Looking at the job it should have been a five minute job to undo the two bolts holding the loom to the front of the block, remove the old seal (that was already falling out) fit the new “seal” which is actually an aluminium plug with an ‘o’ ring that is held in place by a metal strap that goes under the two aforementioned bolts. This then has an over sized push fit pipe fitting (think suspension airbag) that the breather pipe goes into and then to your choice of location.
The problem was that the ally plug is too thick to fit behind the EGR cooler so that had to be removed first but to get to the lower bolts of the cooler, I had to remove the viscous fan. Thankfully I had the spanner from doing the power steering pump! So a five-ten minute job took about an hour all in! Hopefully it will mean no more leaking from there.
I can’t say as I like the blue pipe, that will be getting changed for a black pipe. I need to look around for a oil breather catch tank at some point for both this new breather and the head cover breather. Any ideas/suggestions appreciated.
I’ve also attacked the head/block with some “green gunk” and I’m amazed at how much better it all looks! From now on, every time I remove anything from the engine it will all be treated with gunk!! Great stuff!
Gunner1878
New Member
Love the reg plate "Snow Wizard"I’ve been wanting a Land Rover for years, ever since my first time driving the British Red Cross 110 Ambulance 15 or 20 years ago.
This week I finally brought myself a Land Rover! I can’t afford a defender that isn’t decades old so I brought me a 2004 Discovery 2 ES Premium Automatic as my daily drive.
When I brought it the chap mentioned the reversing lights don’t work, it was only a fuse.... however, turns out the break lights are fed from the same fuse!!
I’m planning a few jobs on it but I’m not sure how far I’m going to go with it so I’ve decided to start a thread to keep you all up to date and keep all my antics and adventures in one place.
My Nanocom is due for delivery on Tuesday and Today I had a back door ladder delivered and have been for a drive to Southdown 4x4 in Devon to collect one of their snorkel kits. I can’t recomend them enough! Dave is a great chap, very friendly and helpful. He talked me throug the fitting, giving me some tips along the way.
Thankfully, my first problem happened right outside my front door... Flat tyre!!
The first picture should be below. Watch this space for more news and chaos!
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Thanks! The plate was pure luck but I like it. I had factored in £300 for a private plate that would hide the age when I was looking for a D2 but when I saw it I couldn’t possibly change it!
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Well that's f*****g annoying!
In preparation for returning to air suspension I’ve ordered two new height sensors which arrived last week but due to being in work I had to collect them from the post office which I did today.
I got home, got the jack out and whipped off one wheel thinking it was going to be an easy job but where has the old sensor gone?! Turns out that when the damper mount was repaired the sensor has just been binned along with the sensor mounting bracket!! Bollocks!
Stick my head under the other side and it’s the same!! Well that’s today’s plans gone out the window then!! Another job added to the list for when it gets its new chassis...
In preparation for returning to air suspension I’ve ordered two new height sensors which arrived last week but due to being in work I had to collect them from the post office which I did today.
I got home, got the jack out and whipped off one wheel thinking it was going to be an easy job but where has the old sensor gone?! Turns out that when the damper mount was repaired the sensor has just been binned along with the sensor mounting bracket!! Bollocks!
Stick my head under the other side and it’s the same!! Well that’s today’s plans gone out the window then!! Another job added to the list for when it gets its new chassis...
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Spot1
Well-Known Member
More of a cosmetic job today, turning the switches blue!
Before;
After;
It’s not difficult, just fiddly. Remove each switch and open it up and cut away the green 3mm LED and replace it with a blue one;
I was planning to replace the amber ones with red but there wasn’t the space to fit the required resistor in the switch.
Before;
After;
It’s not difficult, just fiddly. Remove each switch and open it up and cut away the green 3mm LED and replace it with a blue one;
I was planning to replace the amber ones with red but there wasn’t the space to fit the required resistor in the switch.
Attachments
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Another busy afternoon attacking the headlining... not quite as bad as I expected it to be!
The old lining came away easily enough
The biggest pig of a job was scrubbing off the foam backing from the original. A good wire brush does the job well but felt like I had w**k**s cramps for about half an hour after!
I got the new lining from www.vandalised.co.uk. It’s a black four way stretch fabric designed for automotive work. I ordered a 2m x 3m piece that came with 3 cans of spray glue all for £30 delivered. I can’t fault it and it’s clearly hard wearing as it’s not that easy to cut!
I’m planning on adding some LED strips before it goes back in, just got to wait for them to arrive first so I can hide the wiring above the headlining to keep it tidy. They should be her in tomorrow fingers crossed so I can get it all back together.
Whilst it’s out I’ve tidied the wires for the rear camera that had just been tucked in wherever it would go. I’ve also done the same for my dash cam and by comms radio so they are all no longer at risk of falling down.
I’ve also taken the opportunity to run a “trailer” cable from the front to the back for when I get around to installing covert amber LED strobes in the rear clusters so that’s one less thing to worry about in the future.
More pictures to follow in the next few days when all it goes back in!
The old lining came away easily enough
The biggest pig of a job was scrubbing off the foam backing from the original. A good wire brush does the job well but felt like I had w**k**s cramps for about half an hour after!
I got the new lining from www.vandalised.co.uk. It’s a black four way stretch fabric designed for automotive work. I ordered a 2m x 3m piece that came with 3 cans of spray glue all for £30 delivered. I can’t fault it and it’s clearly hard wearing as it’s not that easy to cut!
I’m planning on adding some LED strips before it goes back in, just got to wait for them to arrive first so I can hide the wiring above the headlining to keep it tidy. They should be her in tomorrow fingers crossed so I can get it all back together.
Whilst it’s out I’ve tidied the wires for the rear camera that had just been tucked in wherever it would go. I’ve also done the same for my dash cam and by comms radio so they are all no longer at risk of falling down.
I’ve also taken the opportunity to run a “trailer” cable from the front to the back for when I get around to installing covert amber LED strobes in the rear clusters so that’s one less thing to worry about in the future.
More pictures to follow in the next few days when all it goes back in!
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Well, how the world has changes since my last post! Covid-19 is here and everyone should be in lockdown... What this means to me is that working for an NHS Ambulance service, actually on the 999 ambulances I am now literally putting my life on the line with every shift that I do. So far, so good, I've escaped the virus despite meeting an unknown number of people that may or may not have 'it'... fingers crossed I carry on dodging the bullet! Outside of work, my many other activities have now ground to a halt giving me loads of landy time.
So, back to my D2.
I've completed the headlining job. Well, almost... The LED strip has arrived and I have installed a strip above the front drivers and the passengers seats, between the roof console and the windscreen and again on the slope infant of the nets above the second row of seats. These are simply 12v Red, Green, Blue, White (RGBW) LED strips that I've wired the white and blue LED's separately so I can have blue to save night vision or white to light up the whole cab. These are wired to switches in the respective consoles with indicator LED's powered from the side light circuit, accessed from the S12 socket on the internal fusebox.
Having trimmed the headlining in black, I decided that I didn't like the trim in the original cream colour and sprayed the rear console and net brackets satin black before refitting the headlining as this can't be removed again without pulling the whole headlining out again.
I also made up a bracket to hole the remote head for my quad-band radio so it doesn't keep falling down when off road.
Once getting it back in, I was glad I took this decision to go everything black as the cream trim just looks wrong with black leather seats and black headlining. I've since sprayed the front roof console, visors, A-pillars and all 4 grab handles satin black and its all looking much smarter and modern.
You can also see the blue LED strips lit up in the above pic along with the remote head fixed in place.
Here you can see the four led strips in white and blue along with the switches and indicator LED's
I've also continued changing the dim green LED's in the various switches including the two rear window switches at the same time I added a blue LED to each internal door escutcheon.
Before:
and after: 
So, back to my D2.
I've completed the headlining job. Well, almost... The LED strip has arrived and I have installed a strip above the front drivers and the passengers seats, between the roof console and the windscreen and again on the slope infant of the nets above the second row of seats. These are simply 12v Red, Green, Blue, White (RGBW) LED strips that I've wired the white and blue LED's separately so I can have blue to save night vision or white to light up the whole cab. These are wired to switches in the respective consoles with indicator LED's powered from the side light circuit, accessed from the S12 socket on the internal fusebox.
Having trimmed the headlining in black, I decided that I didn't like the trim in the original cream colour and sprayed the rear console and net brackets satin black before refitting the headlining as this can't be removed again without pulling the whole headlining out again.
I also made up a bracket to hole the remote head for my quad-band radio so it doesn't keep falling down when off road.
Once getting it back in, I was glad I took this decision to go everything black as the cream trim just looks wrong with black leather seats and black headlining. I've since sprayed the front roof console, visors, A-pillars and all 4 grab handles satin black and its all looking much smarter and modern.
You can also see the blue LED strips lit up in the above pic along with the remote head fixed in place.
Here you can see the four led strips in white and blue along with the switches and indicator LED's
I've also continued changing the dim green LED's in the various switches including the two rear window switches at the same time I added a blue LED to each internal door escutcheon.
Before:
and after:
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Suspension wise, I've also made big (for me) steps forward.
Using my nanocom, I tested the compressor and valves as much as I could and all seems well.
Following my frustrations in post #109, I fabricated some brackets out of flimsy 0.5mm aluminium sheet to carry the sensors and fitted them in place with "no more nails"! Yes, you did read that right! I don't weld so took the next best option... I just wanted to prove that the system still works.
As documented in another post, once I plugged in the cheap ride hight sensors I brought from eBay I was getting no output on the left side on my nanocom... I then decided to stop being a cheap bar-steward and brought another pair of sensors from JSG4x4 (excellent and prompt service from them as ever, thank you) with the same result. I then ordered a pair of replacement plugs with 6" of wire as it was highlighted that the pins in them like to rust. With these I got good readings on both sides. Excellent.
Next step was to borrow some spring compressors form a mate and pull the springs out and replace them with a pair of second hand air bags I picked up for a tenner... success! They inflated without issue using the options left/right up/down under the calibration options.
Once I had the axle stands and jack out from under I lowered it back onto all four wheels and just kept hitting the up buttons on nanocom until I was happy it was a vaguely drivable height and went for a short drive to find some level ground (which my driveway is not) and using a measuring tape to measure the front arch height, again using the nanocom I just kept going up/down until I was happy with the heights. No doubt I'll need to tweak these a little in the coming days but all appears good! Having been for that short drive and parked back on my drive, the Off Road Mode works fine as does the self levelling and what I'm calling the door bow, when you park up and get out.
Next job on that front is to make up some sensor bracket out of 1mm steel and find/pay someone to weld them on as a permanent solution. Well, until I get the chassis replaced that is.
Using my nanocom, I tested the compressor and valves as much as I could and all seems well.
Following my frustrations in post #109, I fabricated some brackets out of flimsy 0.5mm aluminium sheet to carry the sensors and fitted them in place with "no more nails"! Yes, you did read that right!
I don't weld so took the next best option... I just wanted to prove that the system still works.As documented in another post, once I plugged in the cheap ride hight sensors I brought from eBay I was getting no output on the left side on my nanocom... I then decided to stop being a cheap bar-steward and brought another pair of sensors from JSG4x4 (excellent and prompt service from them as ever, thank you) with the same result. I then ordered a pair of replacement plugs with 6" of wire as it was highlighted that the pins in them like to rust. With these I got good readings on both sides. Excellent.
Next step was to borrow some spring compressors form a mate and pull the springs out and replace them with a pair of second hand air bags I picked up for a tenner... success! They inflated without issue using the options left/right up/down under the calibration options.
Once I had the axle stands and jack out from under I lowered it back onto all four wheels and just kept hitting the up buttons on nanocom until I was happy it was a vaguely drivable height and went for a short drive to find some level ground (which my driveway is not) and using a measuring tape to measure the front arch height, again using the nanocom I just kept going up/down until I was happy with the heights. No doubt I'll need to tweak these a little in the coming days but all appears good!
Having been for that short drive and parked back on my drive, the Off Road Mode works fine as does the self levelling and what I'm calling the door bow, when you park up and get out.Next job on that front is to make up some sensor bracket out of 1mm steel and find/pay someone to weld them on as a permanent solution. Well, until I get the chassis replaced that is.
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Spot1
Well-Known Member
I've also had the passenger side headlight out and taken it apart to wash out the inside.
This was a little daunting to start with but a bit of googling gave me confidence to stick it in the oven. I literally set it at as low a temp as it would go, circa 50-75 degrees and set the timer for ten minutes and that was enough to gently (but firmly) prize the lens away from the body and give it all a good clean down. Just a note, DO NOT put any of the parts in the dishwasher... cue the loss of chroming and a cloudy lens and lots of 'polishing' with t-cut! Phew, that saved the lens and some silver modelling paint replaced the chrome...
I've also given both headlight lenses a couple of coats of clear lacker once they were polished up and they are now nice and clear and will hopefully remain that way for some time now.
Googling to do this has unfortunately created a new project... All I'm going to say is projector lamps and DRL's... Watch this space!
This was a little daunting to start with but a bit of googling gave me confidence to stick it in the oven. I literally set it at as low a temp as it would go, circa 50-75 degrees and set the timer for ten minutes and that was enough to gently (but firmly) prize the lens away from the body and give it all a good clean down. Just a note, DO NOT put any of the parts in the dishwasher... cue the loss of chroming and a cloudy lens and lots of 'polishing' with t-cut! Phew, that saved the lens and some silver modelling paint replaced the chrome...
I've also given both headlight lenses a couple of coats of clear lacker once they were polished up and they are now nice and clear and will hopefully remain that way for some time now.
Googling to do this has unfortunately created a new project... All I'm going to say is projector lamps and DRL's... Watch this space!
ifloochies
Well-Known Member
Definitely watching....
Splendid work mate!!
Splendid work mate!!
Spot1
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your support and compliments guys!
So far the air suspension is holding up so that is reassuring.
I've now sprayed the drivers side wheel arches Epsom Green to match the body. I thought I'd taken a couple of pics but clearly I did something wrong... I'll grab a couple when it's stopped raining. Now I just need to wait for a couple of dry days when I'm not working to do the passenger side arches.
I've also modded my raptor dash pod a little, I made a little cowel over the front to add some more blue LED lighting so I can see the labels above the switches;
So far the air suspension is holding up so that is reassuring.
I've now sprayed the drivers side wheel arches Epsom Green to match the body. I thought I'd taken a couple of pics but clearly I did something wrong... I'll grab a couple when it's stopped raining. Now I just need to wait for a couple of dry days when I'm not working to do the passenger side arches.
I've also modded my raptor dash pod a little, I made a little cowel over the front to add some more blue LED lighting so I can see the labels above the switches;
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Spot1
Well-Known Member
Well, I’ve only gone and done it!
Projector headlights both dipped and main beam with LED DRL halo rings and an LED DRL/indicator (animated) strip across the top of the cluster too!!
It took me about 4 hours per side from start to finish. There’s an issue with one of the switching units I’ve used to turn off the DRL’s when the indicator comes on so one side is not switching off so waiting for another one to come so I can fix it then I’ll try and upload a video of them. I’m very happy with the way they have come out for a first attempt!
Projector headlights both dipped and main beam with LED DRL halo rings and an LED DRL/indicator (animated) strip across the top of the cluster too!!
It took me about 4 hours per side from start to finish. There’s an issue with one of the switching units I’ve used to turn off the DRL’s when the indicator comes on so one side is not switching off so waiting for another one to come so I can fix it then I’ll try and upload a video of them. I’m very happy with the way they have come out for a first attempt!
