D

dooroy

Active Member
My bro-in-law has a Freelander 2001 Td4 with about 135K on the clock .
Today he rang me as a water hose had failed and he was wondering if he would drive it home and keep topping up .
I advised him not to - and he had it recovered to my place . It was left across the road as my driveway was blocked by roadworks at the time .
I went out tonight to drive it across - but it is very difficult to move in either direction .
It feels like when a handbrake is stuck on - but I reckon the rear hubs are turning so the problem must be elsewhere . But where ?
He tells me the recovery driver mentioned the hbrake must be stuck on when loading it .
Haven't had much dealings with Freelanders so would welcome any suggestions as to what the problem may be .
I have left it across the road for the night as I didn't want to get stuck half way across the main road .:eek:
 
How did it get recovered? Please say a low loader and not just lift the front wheels n drag it!!
A friend had this problem after the RAC were certain that 4x4s can be dragged with just 2wheels on the air, it cost them nearly £2800 to put it right!
 
Jack both rear wheels clear of the ground with the handbrake off. If you can turn one wheel and the other turns in the opposite direction then the seizure is not in the back axle but somewhere forward of this, i.e VCU or IRD. If you cannot turn a wheel then one of the brakes is stuck on (or handbrake cable sticking).
 
Tonight I jacked up the rear wheels .
Left wheel would turn , right wheel would only move about an inch - and when it moved back and forward there was a sound of metal hitting metal .
So I took off the wheel and removed brake drum - tight but came off.
Then found that half shaft would turn as it should , opposite wheel going in other direction etc .
Everything seemed fine with the brakes .
So I refitted drum and all was fine .:confused:
So it appears that one of the linings stuck to the drum - but car had not been parked for any length of time .Will have to find out if car was stiff going on the truck - or did it get stuck during the journey back
Have finally got the car in to my own place - and thought there was a bit of a 'clunk' when changing from drive to over run . Will have to check this out tomorrow . Can't go far till hose replaced .
Thanks for help - will come back if I have more problems. :)
Hoping no damage caused to engine when hose burst .
 
Last edited:
dooroy said:
Tonight I jacked up the rear wheels .
Left wheel would turn , right wheel would only move about an inch - and when it moved back and forward there was a sound of metal hitting metal .
So I took off the wheel and removed brake drum - tight but came off.
Then found that half shaft would turn as it should , opposite wheel going in other direction etc .
Everything seemed fine with the brakes .
So I refitted drum and all was fine .:confused:
So it appears that one of the linings stuck to the drum - but car had not been parked for any length of time .Will have to find out if car was stiff going on the truck - or did it get stuck during the journey back
Have finally got the car in to my own place - and thought there was a bit of a 'clunk' when changing from drive to over run . Will have to check this out tomorrow . Can't go far till hose replaced .
Thanks for help - will come back if I have more problems. :)
Hoping no damage caused to engine when hose burst .
Click to expand...

Still think you have something sticking in that brake, either handbrake cable or the pivot on handbrake expander mechanism.
 
Replaced rad hose and took it for a drive .
Everything behaving as it should - brakes fine etc .
However I still don't feel it has been properly sorted - agree with you chaser ; reckon I may check over cables , mechanism etc again .
It's always nice to find a cause for a problem .:(
And found the reason for the thump - a bracket bolted to the rear diiff has a rubber bushing with a bolt going through it which is completely gone.
Looks like it could be tricky enough to replace - and will have fun trying to explain to dealer which one I need . :D
 
If you do a search on here about replacing rear diff bushes then you will find that its a very common problem, fairly easy to replace and after market one's are around £15. each
 
dooroy said:
Replaced rad hose and took it for a drive .
Everything behaving as it should - brakes fine etc .
However I still don't feel it has been properly sorted - agree with you chaser ; reckon I may check over cables , mechanism etc again .
It's always nice to find a cause for a problem .:(
And found the reason for the thump - a bracket bolted to the rear diiff has a rubber bushing with a bolt going through it which is completely gone.
Looks like it could be tricky enough to replace - and will have fun trying to explain to dealer which one I need . :D
Click to expand...


i live in donegal and find using paddock spares brilliant. they ship to me for about €10 and are really helpfull on the phone too. my landrover dealer here is completely useless too, they dont seem to know their arse from their elbow!!:)
 
Thanks lentec - found a post as you suggested and not too bad a job it seems .
And lentac I couldn't put it better myself re dealers . I have a Td5 and had a few 300 Tdi's and found Paddocks excellent and carriage very reasonable compared to here . For example at one stage I got a recon steering box for a 300 Tdi from Paddocks - carriage charge about €15 , very reasonable . However when I went to return the old unit it cost me €48 to send it back :mad:. Talk about being ripped off . Another example - BLRC sent me a clutch kit including spigot bearing ( 50p from them ) . I managed to lose it and went in to the main dlr for one . Cost €5 .
 
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