If someone takes money for an implied service, and is negligent, then i would think that they could be sued for costs.

The difficulty will be in proving negligence. The click mechanic service may have small print, but, i would think a court to look poorly on something trying to exempt them from any responsibility for a service that they are selling.

I have no legal background, but it seems that you should maybe go and take your free hour at some solicitors or other.
 
J_Swan said:
I don't know where I stand with a refund, as no guarantee of the vehicles condition was provided & foolishly I don't have a receipt/proof of sale drafted up. I also couldn't go back to the seller and say I reckon it's stolen, can I have a refund. But st the same time like you say, I don't want to take the hit.

I put faith in the inspector to establish these things before buying the vehicle, which he failed to do so which makes me inclined to pursue him for blame.

Swan.
Click to expand...
May well be worth pointing out what you have discovered without any accusation, I am sure if the police knew that you were driving a vehicle which had no chassis or engine numbers they would take an interest in it.
And I am sure the seller would be aware that he has sold you a problem, I would expect that he would just plead ignorance if they were to follow up, but it might sway his decision knowing that may come his way.
 
Front suspension and steering
1 Engine underside leakage
2 Steering joints/ball joints
3 Steering rack
4 Chassis members
5 Power steering
6 Wheels hubs/bearings
7 Road springs
8 Pipes/hoses
9 Shock absorbers (conditions/leaks)
10 Gaiters/boots
11 Sub frames/mountings
12 Suspension arms/mountings
13 Tie bars/anti roll bars
14 Corrosion - floor/chassis
Wheels and tyres
15 Front right tyre
16 Front left tyre
17 Rear right tyre
18 Rear left tyre
19 Spare wheel condition
20 Alloy wheel condition (if applicable)
Electrical/controls
21 Rear lights/number plate lights
22 Stop lights
23 Starting system/ignition lock
24 Battery voltage
25 Battery charging system
26 Headlights
27 Side light/running lights
28 Indicators/hazard lights
29 Reverse/fog lights
30 Auxiliary lights
31 Panel lights
32 Switches/controls
33 Instrument/controls function
34 Horn
35 Door locking
36 Window/sunroof operation
37 Wipers/washers
38 Headlamp washer/headlamp wiper
Body exterior
39 Glass
40 Door locks/operation
41 Fuel filler cover/petrol cap
42 Body damage
43 Past repair evident
44 Corrosion
Clutch/transmission - manual
45 Fluid/oil leaks
46 Hydraulic system
47 Linkage (wear)
48 Casings
49 Mountings
50 Drive shaft assemblies
51 Universal/sliding joints (if visible)
52 Slave cylinder gaiter/boot
53 Propshaft(s)
54 Bearings/supports
Engine compartment
55 Coolant/antifreeze level
56 Coolant leak
57 Radiator/cap
58 Hoses/pipes
59 Drive belts (visible damage)
60 Power steering fluid level
61 Clutch fluid level
62 Brake fluid level
63 Engine oil level
64 External leaks (engine)
65 Engine mountings
66 Cold starting
67 Fast idle (cold)
68 Noise level (cold)
69 Excess fumes/smoke
Rear suspension and underframe
70 Road springs
71 Anti-roll bar
72 Shock absorbers
73 Suspension arms/fixings
74 Location rod/fixings
75 Bumpers stops/gaiters
76 Wheel hubs/bearings
77 Pipes/hoses
78 Sub frames/mountings
79 Chassis members
80 Corrosion - floor/chassis
Interior luggage compartment
81 Seat belts
82 Seat mechanism (driver's seat)
83 Mirror condition - internal
84 Boot/tailgate lock
Fuel system
85 Tank fixings
86 Fuel lines
87 Breather pipes
88 Evidence of leaks
Exhaust system
89 Operation
90 System condition
Brakes
91 Master cylinder security (if accessible)
92 Fluid leaks
93 Servo/power system
94 Flexible hoses
95 Pipes/connections
96 Discs/pads (visual check)
97 Hand/parking brake operation/adjustments
98 Hand/parking brake linkage
Road test
99 Overheating evidence
100 Gearbox operation/noise level
101 Accelerator pedal/cable adjustment (unless digital)
102 Brake servo/power system
103 Brake pedal/linkage
104 Final drive operation/noise level
105 Engine - performance
106 Engine - noise
107 Excess smoke
108 Clutch pedal/cable adjustment
109 Clutch operation
110 Instrument/controls function
111 General steering/handling
112 Footbrake operation
113 Hand/parking brake operation
114 Suspension noise
115 Turbo/super charger operation
116 Road holding/stability
117 Warning lights
118 Cruise control
Click to expand...


That's what they say they check. Unfortunately nothing about chassis numbers being ground off....

Although would you expect them to notice as a matter of checks 4,14,79, and 80?
 
SwannyLRO said:
Sorry to hear the situation your in mate, nothing worse than laying out hard earned money on something that's not as you expected. But on the other hand if what the 4x4 specialist has reported regarding faults is actually right then glad your here writing this post. If it was me I would definitely go down the path others have suggested of getting a third opinion. Hope you find a resolution to this where you either find out what 4x4 specialist not to go or what inspection company not to use and walk away with either a good landy or your money back!

Best wishes,

Swanny
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice mate, I'm hoping to walk away with a solid truck to use. I really don't want to have to go down a messy route of trying to secure a refund etc.

I'd rather it be a case of me paying over the odds for the truck then it being a rolling write off.

Swan.
 
The other possibility is to make sure it is legit (somehow - not 100% sure how), get what needs fixing fixed, and move on.
I would think it may be fairly easy getting money out of click mechanic for repairs directly relating to their checklist.

...but that's no good if its a ringer.
 
lynall said:
So let me get this right you researched all about defenders and their many benefits/faults and then proceeded to buy one with no chassis number?
Click to expand...
I think you're missing the point. I paid a supposed qualified mechanic/inspector to undertake a pre purchase inspection for me, due to my lack of knowledge.

If you're telling me that checking the chassis number is a fundamental check before buying the defender, then would it be that unreasonable to expect the inspector to do this for me in a "pre purchase inspection"
 
raywin said:
May well be worth pointing out what you have discovered without any accusation, I am sure if the police knew that you were driving a vehicle which had no chassis or engine numbers they would take an interest in it.
And I am sure the seller would be aware that he has sold you a problem, I would expect that he would just plead ignorance if they were to follow up, but it might sway his decision knowing that may come his way.
Click to expand...
I think you're right in saying the seller knew the truck wasn't in the implied condition, but the extent of what he knew is impossible to know.
 
Marmaduke said:
Depending upon your where abouts in the West Midlands I can come and take a shufty at it if it helps, I work in Lichfield but I live not far from Ashby de la Zouch
Click to expand...
I'm in Birmingham mate, thank you for that offer.

I'm going to dig deeper, see what else I can establish about the truck and then may take you up on that offer?
 
Colthebrummie said:
I think that is a bit unfair. I've bought loads of cars without doing any research or grubbing around looking for engine and chassis numbers and I suspect many of us have. Basically we look at the condition, listen to the engine run and if lucky take it for a test drive. The only research most do is comparing the price to similar vehicles and researching known faults. I bought my landy from a bloke called Cosmo and picked it from a yard in the middle of nowhere. I paid in advance via PayPal before even seeing the car. That would have rung alarm bells for many (including my missus) but it's all part of life's adventure innit. My landy by the way, is great despite quite a few initial problems. Many people laughed when I bought him saying I was mad and that I'd end up scrapping it within a couple of months. I've had him 3 years now and he keeps getting better.

Col
Click to expand...


Well thats where you and me differ as I like to look into most things especially when they are costing me a few grand, 10 minutes on google will give you a good idea of whats what, and nowadays with most people having a smart phone theres no excuse not to check up mot history etc etc.

Example wife wanted an Audi had to be auto, they did two types of auto one called Multitronic and a living nightmare or the proper slush box auto only available on the 3.0tdi quattro so thats what I told her to buy, 3 x Audis and a few years later that has proved very good advice.

I am a mech so naturally a suspicous bar steward, but when I bought my 90 the one and only thing I really checked was the chassis number, the rest isnt the end of the world.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Get yo money back or prospectively sue the first inspector.
Yu employed him as an expert and as such he has responsibilities and liabilities ( and insurance?).
Click to expand...
I'm going to go down the official complaint route of the click mechanic website.

I'm unsure whether I should contact the inspector directly also, as I have his details.
 
lynall said:
That makes it even worse so you think the op bought it blind with no knowledge of the car? even though he mentions that it was a 200 and is now a 300 tells me hes got some limited knowledge at the very least and as its his first landy one has to assume hes done some research?

You never know I might just be able to sell mine if all the buyers are as daft as that!
Click to expand...
Are you here to provide advise or just inform me that I've made a series of mistakes (which I'm already aware of)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Get yo money back or prospectively sue the first inspector.
Yu employed him as an expert and as such he has responsibilities and liabilities ( and insurance?).
Click to expand...
To take legal action will probably cost more than you recover - trust me I had an experience of this!!
 
J_Swan said:
Are you here to provide advise or just inform me that I've made a series of mistakes (which I'm already aware of)
Click to expand...

You can take it any way you so feel it is after all a democratic society.

Im not so sure I would go via the click website as has been said there will be fine print, bit like ebay follow the official channels get nowhere, leave negative feedback and all of a sudden things happen.

Here is some advice get your torch out and crawl underneath the motor have a good look at the the chassis rail outer faces there should be date stamps in various places, for example my 1993 L reg 90 has 93L here and there same as mates 1993 L reg 110.
The chances of it being whatever year as per the number plate and the window security etching and a ringer with the correct year chassis stamps has got to be slim to non existent.
Has it got discs or drums on the rear?
Im not sure on the coilers but with the series motors factory reconned engines had the engine number ground or stamped over and a brass plate fitted to the block.
 
You say that you have taken out a loan for the Land Rover, was it a bank loan or car finance? I suspect that it was a bank loan, but if it was some other type of finance, particularly if the vehicle is some sort of security against the loan, you may have a legal way out.
Do not stick your head in the sand regarding the possibility that the Land Rover is stolen, it is not worth spending anything on it if it is knock-off as it doesn't belong to you and never will.
If it isn't stolen then you need to know for certain and if it is, the longer you leave it the harder it will be to get your money back off the vendor. as I said in my other post, you need to get a proper stolen vehicle examiner to look at it.
You don't list the other faults with the vehicle, but the loose drop arm that caused your steering issues is not a major issue, once it has been tightened up properly.
If you want to post some pics of your Land Rover we can give you some idea how old it really is, for example if the 300tdi is fitted way back in the engine bay and bolted to an LT77 gearbox (reverse up and to the left) then things would look more promising.
 
Why not contact the seller and see what kind of a response you get.
Might give you some idea of where you stand.
 
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