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marshy714

Active Member


well hopefully get to work on the disco next weekend. i need to fix
  • both rear electric windows arent working from any of the controls?
  • the passenger front door doesnt lock or unlock on the remote central locking?
  • the power steering box is weeping badly!
  • im not sure if its oil from the steering but the sump is pretty covered in oil!
  • find all these oi leaks and stop them!
  • change the clutch and gear box oil/service!
  • give her a good old clean!!!

any tips on any of these faults ive inherited with my new disco please feel free to share :D
 
Window problem is likely to be the window ecu behind the glovebox-dry solder joints.
Steering box weeping, either the lower seal has gone, or it's just residual from spillage. Best way to check would be to spray some degreaser on it then jetwash off, run it around for a bit and see where the leak is coming from. Apply the same method to the other leaks ad well.
Clutch can be done without dropping the box on the floor by sliding it back on a trolley jack (CAREFULLY) and resting it on the crossmember. Plenty of clutch change threads on the net.
 
Remember it is worth doing the rear crank seal (behind flywheel) and g/box front seal if doing the clutch and have no history of them, the last thing you need a month after is to see a leak and have to do the whole job again for a tenners worth of bits.

The correct oil for the R380 gearbox can be expensive, if you have time now, shop around for the best deal instead of rushing for it on the day. MT294 if i remember correctly, unipart do it in their own bottles.

The central locking will probably just be the motor/solenoid, I needed one and it was about £8 delivered for a used one on eBay.

The rear window "dry joint" that quattro mentioned is such an easy fix!

All the best
 
While i remember, look into getting your clutch fork strengthened, or buy a HD one. That must be a pain to have to change if you were none the wiser and the rod pushes through it not long after doing a clutch. The fork is only a few quid along with a fitting kit for it.
 
Mtf94 is the recommended oil, as said, although you can also use atf (auto transmission fluid) in them as well.
Difflock do make their own, although at nearly 60 quid for enough to change the fluid, it's very pricey. I've used it, and to be honest, can't justify the cost over using atf.
 
I can say that I definitely felt the difference between gearshift when i drained atf from my r380 and filled with mtf. This may not be the case for the lt77.

Anything that helps the feel of such an agricultural gearbox is worth the extra £15-20 on oil in my opinion.

All the best
 
what exactly am i looking for on the window ecu? all looks allright to me :p im guessing that small hole on the nsr wheel arch is an mot failure? just won a front passenger door actuator on ebay £2.50! that metal cover over the fuel lift pump should it be that rusty? the foam wadding/sound padding under the carpet was soaked!!!! no wonder these things rust! why on earth would it be wet?

 
really? should it be that big tho? will the mot test guy know its supposed to be there? can you get into it from the top if i remove the trim pannels or is it sandwhiched between the inner and outer skin of the quarter panel?
 
Think there should be a grommet in it. Don't poke too hard, and cover it with seam sealer and underseal. It's inside the pillar
 
cleaned the arches up and gona do a proper job and put a new outter arch on the nearside. i brought a new actuator for the passenger front door central locking as its not working, i got it on ebay second hand and the connectors completely different? he said its off a 300tdi aswell.... did they change the pattern for the connector after a certain year as mines 1998??
 
I did the rear windows fix on my wife's motor and then a friends motor a few weeks ago, the dry joint is the one which I've circled one your photo below, if you look closely it will be cracked all the way around it.

IMG_4160_zpsb3ce2c65.jpg
 
cheers mate! i thought it was that one, i noticed the small cracking, seems weird electric cant travel over that small crack! is it easy enough to redo? can i heat up the solder thats there and reuse it or do you have to remove it and apply new stuff? i might take it to a computer repair shop see if they can just resolder it for like £5
 
The cracking is what's called a dry solder joint. Just re-solder it, which is heat it until the solders melts and add a little bit of new solder and its done. Be careful not to use to much heat else you could damage the track or the component, it should take less than 3 seconds to do.
 
got a new nsf central locking actuator and its not the same connections as mine? also which of the photos of the front bumper is it sitting in the correct position?? on a brighter note got some nice wheels last night!!
 
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