i only want to see if the compressor will run , my thinking is if it runs when bridged it's the relay that's duff (cheap fix) if not, in we go deeeeeepppper , i will try to get and direct live the comp tomorrow if it works all well and good buuuuttttt, you know what happens then if not ,£££££££, so more looking for eliminations than cure
 
i only want to see if the compressor will run , my thinking is if it runs when bridged it's the relay that's duff (cheap fix) if not, in we go deeeeeepppper , i will try to get and direct live the comp tomorrow if it works all well and good buuuuttttt, you know what happens then if not ,£££££££, so more looking for eliminations than cure

Swap the relay with one of the others next to it
 
thinking !!! ( dangerous stuff this ), is the feed from ride height sensors similar to say an elecy window , it switches back and forth from earth to live and back again when operating ????? im no spark by a long way so bear with me
 
i've swapped relays , fuses in engine bay and under dash, the bugger just stopped working , tuther half had it when it died so i'm at a loss really, can only go on what i'm told :confused:, cant move it to get it checked either , went to the floor pdq, i'm pretty mutton jeff so i cant hear if it's working or not got to feel it (ummm yes please hahaha)so trying obvious first
 
i've swapped relays , fuses in engine bay and under dash, the bugger just stopped working , tuther half had it when it died so i'm at a loss really, can only go on what i'm told :confused:, cant move it to get it checked either , went to the floor pdq, i'm pretty mutton jeff so i cant hear if it's working or not got to feel it (ummm yes please hahaha)so trying obvious first

Where are you?
 
see this post http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/1692573-post9.html unplug all the connectors in the compressor housing, improvise a wiring and feed the compressor, the LH and RH air supply valves at the same time from battery through a 30A fuse untill the car gets to aproximative normal level...cut the feed then instantly otherwise you might overinflate them...leave everything unplugged untill you fix the system and if there are no leaks it will stay on level for days.

meanwhile download RAVE and learn how that system works if you want to DIY ...its simpler than it appears ... to plug in a tester would help too
 
very much appreciated will "try" and do this tomoz so i can get it to where i can get it nanocom'd or hawkeye'd , oooooh i wish my s2 was ready so much more enjoyment out of a simple vehicle :lvlove-158:
 
i've just been informed by my wonderful WIFE that she had no brakes about an hour before the sls packed in , so could this be a partial reason for the sls not working ???, as a few post read SLABS self leveling blah blah etc you know how it goes , cuz i is really lost now, is the abs valve block and the sls linked ? or does anyone know some one with hawkeye or similar near to Merthyr Tydfil south wales
 
the SLS and brake system shares the same ECU(that's why it's named SLABS(Self Levelling and ABS)... but you should have got some warnings on dash if there was a systems failure...or the ECU is so fubar'd that it doesnt even warn you:eek:

..though even if the electronic part of the ABS shares the same ECU with the sls it would have affected the ABS functions not the phisycal brakes which must work on hydraulics anyway

Check as follows just to rule out some things maybe some other systems are affected and you dont even know: fusible links FL8, FL9, FL11 and fuse F11 in engine bay...fuses F25, F27, F28 in the interior fusebox.
 
well MY little crisis is over for the time being :dance:!!, just about to start testing fuses etc, with multi meter , but the tight side of me said "plug the comp back in" ,i did as i said and its bl**dy working :confused::D??!, so i will be checking all the connectors and plugs to see if water is my problem , thanks all who commented
 

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