Heres the shiny new radiator :D 50mm cores, a little shorter than the RV8 one but the inlet and outlet are on the same side which is what I need!

Rated for 190bhp IIRC so more than enough to cool the V8 especially as I'm running an oil cooler on it too

Need to cut off a couple of the tabs as they aren't needed for fitting it into the V8 for that I'll just be using the stalks on top and bottom









 
discomark10 said:
finally got one then! looks good
Click to expand...

This is the scary bit........... from Docs post..


Need to cut off a couple of the tabs as they aren't needed for fitting it into the V8 for that I'll just be using the stalks on top and bottom :eek::eek:

Does he have to chop everything up:eek: My thought is why did the manufacturer put them there in the first place :rolleyes:
 
Thor1950 said:
This is the scary bit........... from Docs post..


Need to cut off a couple of the tabs as they aren't needed for fitting it into the V8 for that I'll just be using the stalks on top and bottom :eek::eek:

Does he have to chop everything up:eek: My thought is why did the manufacturer put them there in the first place :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Because the manufacturer intended the radiator to be fitted into a Honda S2000 :rolleyes:
 
A prop-shaft with CV joint ends is my next part to find/make, the short prop I got made up will work but it'll get munched pretty quickly due to the working angle.

CV joint is the only way around it so I'm going to either make one or see if I can buy one
 
Ok done a little phoning about



£250 for a wide angle UJ prop shaft working up to 30* or if I need 45* its £600 :eek:

So if it does turn out that I need more than 30* I'll be making an axle and keeping the series as front wheel drive until I get that done!

And with that in mind the axle would need to be made up with the diff above the drive line so that you bring the working angle closer to the 180* neutral…..so I'm hoping when I make up the triangle to check working angle at full drop and standard running height I'll get away with it!
As long as running angle is good I can put on axle check straps to limit the drop

Thus you want something like this


atomic.jpg




Or in home made form, take a diff in its own freestanding housing and build it into a casing. I'd be looking at a Jaguar LSD and then building it into a tubular frame using UJ prop shafts with no sliding section for the rear and ending up with something like this



112177d1077770781-hummer-portal-hybred-rear-axle-really-cool-rig-dsc00493.jpg





This is a more crude looking one but you can see it all fitted up



photobucket-1216-1336260448231.jpg







Bastid V8 :mad: R380 may have been a bad move :rolleyes: oh well…..too late now!
 
Dr_evil said:
Ok done a little phoning about



£250 for a wide angle UJ prop shaft working up to 30* or if I need 45* its £600 :eek:

So if it does turn out that I need more than 30* I'll be making an axle and keeping the series as front wheel drive until I get that done!
Click to expand...

Bailey morris?
 
Sooooooo I had a brainwave, if needed rather than build a new axle I'm going to chain drive the old one should my angles be too steep. Will have a play around with CAD after I measure up and see if I can figure out some dimensions if I need to do this

Triplex chain, self lubricating housed bearings, adaptor frame welded to the axle, sprockets and an old half shaft to cut up and weld then add a locking collar onto it. Couple of flanges welded to the shaft pieces in order to drive the system and job done

This will then raise my input back up towards level with the handbrake drum this is purely as an exercise to cut work down if needed. Hopefully I'll be within about 25* though so I can just use a wide angle prop
 
Forrest Rover tried using chains they failed......................... a New chain from a borg warner may be upto it tho they were rated really really high but shock loading..... not sure about myself
 
Dr_evil said:
I was thinking of a machinery chain something heavy duty or using one off a harley davidson
Click to expand...

unless it's a Sportster they're generally belt drive which i doubt will stand up to the mud and crap for too long

a chain would need setting up in a sealed housing in an oil wash to have any real chance of survival

to be honest, to get your diff centre line up high i reckon you're either going to need a top loaded one or more likely go back to building your own axle with uj's or cv's in the halfshafts to allow you to run a permanent droop as in the
pictures you posted earlier, your only problem then is keeping the unsprung weight down whilst keeping strength and rigidity up

there's plenty of cars built with solidly mounted diffs with cv's in the halfshafts and then there's the ubiquitous jag axle with uj's, your biggest problem then is widths and diff ratios being as you're using the LT230 with permanent 4x4, ratios could obviously be be sorted but could get expensive

part time 4x4 as per the standard Series transfer box would mean diff ratios would have little impact, i run a 3.54 in the rear axle along with 4.7 in the front and have done for the last two years as 4x4 isn't that often required by myself or by 99% of 4x4 users
 
NiteMare said:
unless it's a Sportster they're generally belt drive which i doubt will stand up to the mud and crap for too long

a chain would need setting up in a sealed housing in an oil wash to have any real chance of survival

to be honest, to get your diff centre line up high i reckon you're either going to need a top loaded one or more likely go back to building your own axle with uj's or cv's in the halfshafts to allow you to run a permanent droop as in the
pictures you posted earlier, your only problem then is keeping the unsprung weight down whilst keeping strength and rigidity up

there's plenty of cars built with solidly mounted diffs with cv's in the halfshafts and then there's the ubiquitous jag axle with uj's, your biggest problem then is widths and diff ratios being as you're using the LT230 with permanent 4x4, ratios could obviously be be sorted but could get expensive

part time 4x4 as per the standard Series transfer box would mean diff ratios would have little impact, i run a 3.54 in the rear axle along with 4.7 in the front and have done for the last two years as 4x4 isn't that often required by myself or by 99% of 4x4 users
Click to expand...


The older Harleys from the 80's run chains, the local chopper shop has a few spares and stuff in and I have access to their lathe ;)

Unsprung weight wise the tubular frame wouldn't be far off the standard axle weight of 80 ish kg

My other option would be to re weld the gearbox in at a lower position but I prefer it raised up as it keeps the handbrake drum above the base of the chassis rail and crossmember then. It also means the engines sump is miles away from the top of the front axle and that I can reach the crank bolt now!

So it'll either be a chain drive or hopefully I'll be able to get away with a wide angle prop……


I had toyed around with the idea of raising the rear axle up on spacing blocks by 2" and then running 2" taller tyres on the rear to make up for it so front and rear ended up the same height off the ground. Thought it was a little too simple to work though :rolleyes:

I'm not going to pay Ashcroft for the series transfer to R380 adaptor plate either as it defeats the object of what I was aiming for here so I'm just going to munch the UJ's as they're a standard size to replace
 
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