Having freshly galvanized the original chassis do I paint it black or leave it as it is ?

  • Yes - Etch, prime and paint black

    Votes: 10 90.9%
  • No - Leave it galvanized

    Votes: 1 9.1%

  • Total voters
    11
  • Poll closed .
rev teeth on idler and layshaft 1st and 2nd dog teeth, 2nd and 3rd bush

Will look out for those areas .. thanks, it s not a box I have heard but one I have been given from a stash of spares,so an untested unknown start .. would have got some clues if it came from a running vehicle, but beggars cant be choosers :)
 
Hi. I am doing a rebuild on my dormobile on another thread.. for thé bulkhead, I have hacked out a footwell and when i get it back together, I was toying with the idea of galvanizing the bulkhead. I have heard of them distorting during the hot dip. What was your experience? How does it work if you cannot sandblast every nook and cranny. Does it still galvanise properly? Thanks
Some distortion on the centre piece that holds the hand throttle and a little just above where the wings bolt on but nothing that couldn’t be hammered back into shape. If the steel isn’t spot less then the galv wont take and you end up with black patches. I placed bolts onto the riv nuts which just span round when trying to take them out ( mainly the 6 that hold the fuel filter etc) ended up drilling and re welding washers with nuts behind them !
 
Will look out for those areas .. thanks, it s not a box I have heard but one I have been given from a stash of spares,so an untested unknown start .. would have got some clues if it came from a running vehicle, but beggars cant be choosers :)
My box was a factory refurbished, to be honest I dont think it had done many miles since being fitted, had to replace the rev gear cog on the layshaft and thats about it most of the bearings and seals were in good condition but replaced them anyway.
 
Spent a few hours in the garage last night, thought I would start restoring the dash.....after searching the net I found a few 'restored' clocks available which got me thinking, there must be a way of opening these things up (unlike the clocks on a CX500 that I done a few years ago that were pressed and sealed) here a photo of the clock before, and after some careful screwdriver prizing, wet and dry, cotton buds, and some satin black paint. Not bad effort if I do say so myself.
Well done there , thats what I usually do myslef.,sometimes the paint gets sticky though lol
 
Fuel pump and injectors back from Bob Beck, what a great job they look like new ! A very quick turn around (they received them Tue via DPD and I had them back this afternoon)
Engine can go in next week as soon as the clutch thrust bearing arrives.
 

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Fuel pump attached but the bracket along the top that the spring attaches too had snapped. So I made a new one out of stainless! Shiny shiny
 

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New Injector pipes, water pump, inlet manifold and prop shafts installed along with new bolts.
Fuel tank fitted with the correct fitting kit.
 

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Ahhh fuel pipe dilemma! Cant get the pipe from tank to lift pump ! Got all the others fitted
 

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Exhaust fitted with original galv hangers which look tidy! Water hoses on, new rad ready to go on once I get 5min to blast and paint the front panel that holds the rad and grill.
Plan for this week is to re assemble the throttle linkages, have sandblasted and painted all the metal work ready to put back on some 11mm stainless steel rod that I’ve ordered.
 
Blasted and zinc plated the fuel pipe tank feed and return ready to make new pipes
(Home made zink plating kit)
 

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Zinc plated the wheel nuts
 

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Peddle boxes stripped blasted and prined along with the air box, snail fan and front panel
 

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