DRP 73

DRP 73

New Member
Hi, I am looking for the LWB Station wagon rear quarter panels (small panels that fit between the sill and rear panels - form part of the rear wheel arch) original part numbers MTC5354 and MTC5355

Found repro ones at £72 each (on ebay)- are there any other suppliers or any second hand ones available ?

Thanks
 
Good. They stock obscure and difficult to source parts and are very helpful (old style landy).:cool:
 
Ive been looking for a pair of these at a reasonable price for ages. They seem to be the hardest part to find. I've seen a few old scabby ones on eBay but they all need restoration. When I get desperate I'll take one to a fabricator and get a pair made.

Col
 
John S said:
Good. They stock obscure and difficult to source parts and are very helpful (old style landy).:cool:
Click to expand...
John, yes indeed they were very helpful but at £337 each and collection only, I think i'll have to make / repair one.
 
Colthebrummie said:
Ive been looking for a pair of these at a reasonable price for ages. They seem to be the hardest part to find. I've seen a few old scabby ones on eBay but they all need restoration. When I get desperate I'll take one to a fabricator and get a pair made.

Col
Click to expand...
Col, The repro ones on ebay at £72 each would seem a bargain compared to prices for new old stock panels - don't know how good they are or the fit, but as you say I think I will head down the route of repairing or making my own panel before purchasing one.
 
There's 2 ways this can go:1 buy the £72 e-bay ones and spend a week making them fit to the point where you could have made your own, 2 make your own and spend so long on it the £330 ones seem a bargain. On balance I'd have a go at making one and see what's involved then look at the e-bay ones. Worst of all is spending the £300 plus and finding they still need a lot of fettling. I would use soft (anealed) ally not Birmabright and make one out of cardboard first.
 
My plan, (when I get around to doing something about the body) is to remove one of the original panals, take it to a good fabricator and get a quote for making four. I have a friend who is a fabricator but he isn't as good as he thinks he is. He looked at them and reckoned if I supplied the metal, he could make one in less than a day and charge about £100. Any subsequent ones would be cheaper cos he could do them quicker.

Col
 
My ally brazing rods have a Birmabright example ( a series wing with a 1" hole), they show a stainless steel sheet as backing and the rod being pooled on it to fill a large hole. I'm tempted to invest £20 in the hope of putting it back on for £60
 
No, I'll find the link, they are a zinc ally mix and flow at about 600deg so you use a gas torch. You have to brush with a stainless brush to break the oxidation and heat the metal not the rod. They are quite cheap but its a skill I have only partly mastered. I had some early successes reparing an alumium bike frame that was very valuable and 6 years on its fine, but other joints have broken after a few weeks.
This gives you the idea:

I use these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminiu...m=220865171345&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226
I thik its better for body work as there is less load.
 
rob1miles said:
No, I'll find the link, they are a zinc ally mix and flow at about 600deg so you use a gas torch. You have to brush with a stainless brush to break the oxidation and heat the metal not the rod. They are quite cheap but its a skill I have only partly mastered. I had some early successes reparing an alumium bike frame that was very valuable and 6 years on its fine, but other joints have broken after a few weeks.
This gives you the idea:

I use these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Welding-Brazing-Soldering-Low-Temp-Durafix-Easyweld-UK-Rods-Brush/220865171345?_trkparms=aid=555017&algo=PL.CASSINI&ao=1&asc=54810&meid=2371d731b7b64af0961d10b402ab065d&pid=100505&rk=1&rkt=1&&itm=220865171345&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226
I thik its better for body work as there is less load.
Click to expand...


Interesting, I think my original panel is in better nick than the one currently on ebay - I might give these rods a go, I'm sure there will be other places I will need to touch up - thanks. I'll let you know how I get on :)
 
You can actually cut a piece of birmabright off a scrap panel and use that instead of alloy rod , getting the right flux was the problem I struggled with.
Welded some holes in my roof panel mabout 6 years ago using alloy wire in a mig with argon gas , had stainless plate behind for some doing puddle weld others where curved put small piece of alloy on other side. The stainless is good as it acts as. a heat sink and does not stick to the alloy weld
 
The flux is probably borax which used to come in big tubs, now its seems almost impoosble to get due to a health scare, its also the key ingredient in slime(?!). The trick also seems to be to keep brushing with a stainless brush on the joint face as the metal is flowing, the ally doesn't stick to the stanless and its braking through the oxide quicker that its forming. My successes have been where I can get a straight joint face that can be brushed level in the metal puddle, where its been a tricky shape and the brush doesn't reach I've failed.
 
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