Kcramp66

Kcramp66

Member
Hi everyone
I’m very new to the wonderful world of series land rovers having taken delivery and my very first drive on Saturday. I’m slowly finding my way round my series 3 2.25D and working out what to do to it. I was wondering how long it should take for the starting/glow light to come on? Mine takes about 30seconds which seems a long time but might be normal??
 
It should come on with the key, then go off. I wonder if someone's messed about and it's on when they turn off?
 
On s modern car, glow plugs only come on if needed, pretty sure yours come on regardless. Starting before the plugs switch off will eventually shorten their life.
 
On closer inspection the light isn’t actually coming on at all. I’ve put a new bulb in and still nothing. It seems to start ok but from what I read it would still start in warm weather even without the plugs? (Am I wrong?)
I think I’ll take the plugs out at the weekend and check Them with a multimeter. out of interest has anyone tried any of the cheap ‘new style’ conversion kits from ebay?
 
Hi everyone
So I did some fault finding on the plugs this weekend and have found the following
- plugs are fine (tested with the multimeter)
- bulb is fine (new)
- continuity at the bulb holder
- resistance is good at the ballast resistor

but I have no volts at the resistor or any cold start light. does anyone have any ideas what I can check next?
Thanks a lot
 
Can you post a couple of pics showing a close up of :
connections at ballast resistor
The 4 glow plugs with wiring
Glow plug no 1 with its connections
Did you buy a 12v or 6 v bulb

just need to check if the heater plugs work on the key first
can you test for 12v with a test lamp or meter at plug 1 when the key is turned
 
11DEAF4F-9AB7-4E19-8394-E58D52633141.jpeg

This is a picture of how the ballast resistor is wired.
1833B7C0-1830-4E20-A80C-A3A1A3A25633.jpeg

This is the first plug after the resistor.

yes i fitted a 6v bulb.
Thanks for your reply
 
steve2286w said:
Can you post a couple of pics showing a close up of :
connections at ballast resistor
The 4 glow plugs with wiring
Glow plug no 1 with its connections
Did you buy a 12v or 6 v bulb

just need to check if the heater plugs work on the key first
can you test for 12v with a test lamp or meter at plug 1 when the key is turned
Click to expand...
Presumably to test the plugs on the key i would have the positive probe on the top of the first plug, the negative earthed and have someone turn the key?
 
So you have the original wired in series pig tail type plugs
The ballast resistor wirings looks ok , with the 2 thinner wires going to bulb, if you disconnect both thin wires put one to earth and one side 6v that should light up or check for continuity with bulb in place

have you checked the brown/red wire goes to switch ( see wiring diagram on your other thread)
The connection on plug 4 looks like the wire from resistor is connected to the wire going to plug 3 if so this would be wrong , can you confirm
On plug 1 12v power comes from plug 2 goes through the pigtail and earths to engine block , have you a pic of this

if you’re lucky to have another person to help that’s good otherwise crocodile clips or twisted wires if alone
As long as you can see meter from cab or a test lamp from old indicator bulb with wires soldered on is useful
Each plug has 2 connections can’t recall which one on top
 
This might help, the original wires are insulated from each other on each plug , the earth connection not shown, so should be able to trace 12v at no 1 and if they’re all connected properly they should all work
F94A9214-AE7A-43DD-A0E1-E4ED3D21180D.jpeg
 
Thanks buddy this is really helpful. I’ll check some bits, get some more pics tomorrow and come back to you.
one thing that confuses me about what you’ve said is that if there is no volts at the resistor then am I correct in thinking that there can’t be volts at the plugs as the resistor is first in the chain? I checked for volts at the switch and I have 12v at 3 out of the 5 connections/wires. No volts at the other two, one of which is a large red/brown and the other a thin wire. Is this a clue?
Thanks again
 
When checking for power on the brown/ red wire on switch have you turned key to the stop before cranking this is when the plugs are energised , if it’s not there is there another spade that shows 12v at that key position
It’s not live at normal ignition on position
Yes there should be 12v at resistor on brown/ red first , and also have you continuity end to end on that cable
 
steve2286w said:
When checking for power on the brown/ red wire on switch have you turned key to the stop before cranking this is when the plugs are energised , if it’s not there is there another spade that shows 12v at that key position
It’s not live at normal ignition on position
Yes there should be 12v at resistor on brown/ red first , and also have you continuity end to end on that cable
Click to expand...

so I’ve checked again this evening and latest findings show continuity at the wire from the switch to the resistor and the bulb holder to the resistor so that’s all good. The permanent 12v lead is fine so I have input power but I have no 12v at the terminal that supplies the resistor/plugs when the key is turned to position 1. I’m guessing at this point this terminal should be energised and show 12v so does this suggest I need a new switch as surely there is nothing else to check?
 
There is quite a few ignition switch wiring threads on the series forum

this is a good one and has installation guidelines for new switch

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/series-3-rewire.33959/

When you turn to position 1 thats ignition on , you should turn past this against the spring then ignition and oil light go out and heater plug light comes on ( you don’t need the light to come on for plugs to work)
If you turn key a step further then the starter motor operates
 
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