Bern
Member
Earlier I undid the bolt that holds the sprocket in place. Luckily I already have a 6-way sprocket - phew - looks like when it was converted to diesel it was done properly. It's not ideal, but I'll use this old sprocket.
There are new wires on the camshaft bolts as well, so I guess the camshaft was changed too.
There are new wires on the camshaft bolts as well, so I guess the camshaft was changed too.
I had a (polite) run in with Paddocks recently when a part they sent did not match the picture. I had rang up before ordering and asked them to confirm the part being sold was EXACTLY as per the picture. I was told it was. When it arrived of course it was the cheaper version you could get anywhere. They tried to to say "the small print says may vary from picture" but I had written down the time of the call (I now do this a lot) and asked them to replay it as they claim all calls are recorded. Full refund no further quibbles.
Bern
Member
I've just started doing the timing, and hit the first problem! I can find the EP mark on the flywheel but there's no pointer to line it up against! Somebody has painted a line on the flywheel housing, but I've no idea how accurate that is!
Just checked the parts catalogue and it looks like the pointer is on a piece (500597)!
Just checked the parts catalogue and it looks like the pointer is on a piece (500597)!
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
It’s the reason I no longer use paddocks. I just got fed up with the stock photo bloklocks.
That and having britparts sent direct in brown paper packaging smashed to bits.
What was daming about this was that when I rang orginally the guy went awaye for a while and assured me he had seen the actual part and it looked like the picture, he even confirmed he had th epiture on the screen in front of him. I'm an absolute pedant for things like this so I made him check and confirm. When I called to caomplain the reply was "we haven't had that type for years".. Make of that what you will.
Re OP post: Can you get TDC with a dial gauge then convert degrees into distance on the pully rim and calibrate your own pointer? I used to make them out of a bit of ally cut to a point and painted with tippex.
Re OP post: Can you get TDC with a dial gauge then convert degrees into distance on the pully rim and calibrate your own pointer? I used to make them out of a bit of ally cut to a point and painted with tippex.
Bern
Member
Possibly! Do you mean remove one of the injectors and check for TDC that way?
It's got TDC marked on the flywheel, so if I can find when the piston is at TDC I can then make a mark on the housing opposite the TDC mark.
There is a mark on the block next to the crank sprocket, I'm hoping that will line up with the crank key at TDC but I've not checked that yet.
I've just done the timing, and it's totally wrong so I'll need to redo it anyway!!!
The Land Rover instructions are a bit vague "...when the exhaust valve is nearly fully open..."!! Great! I made the marks on the sprocket only to find that somebody else had already done it and they matched mine, so I must be doing something right, or we were both doing it wrong!
Crazy thing is that you then need to remove the sprocket to get the chain tight, so all your marks mean nothing! And then the camshaft moves....
I've put a mark that lines up with the camshaft key as every time I take the sprocket off the cam moves!
It's got TDC marked on the flywheel, so if I can find when the piston is at TDC I can then make a mark on the housing opposite the TDC mark.
There is a mark on the block next to the crank sprocket, I'm hoping that will line up with the crank key at TDC but I've not checked that yet.
I've just done the timing, and it's totally wrong so I'll need to redo it anyway!!!
The Land Rover instructions are a bit vague "...when the exhaust valve is nearly fully open..."!! Great! I made the marks on the sprocket only to find that somebody else had already done it and they matched mine, so I must be doing something right, or we were both doing it wrong!
Crazy thing is that you then need to remove the sprocket to get the chain tight, so all your marks mean nothing! And then the camshaft moves....
I've put a mark that lines up with the camshaft key as every time I take the sprocket off the cam moves!
I'd order the correct pointer that sits between two long bolts down on the right (as you're looking at it) lower timing cover. Getting it accurate with a mark that far away won't be easy. As far as taking the pulley off again, yes, but if you don't turn the crankshaft you don't need the marks.
Bern
Member
I've got the cam timing correct (I believe), but the pump won't time up!
I've checked and rechecked the cam timing and as far as I can see it's correct!
Firstly I marked when the exhaust valve stopped moving and then another mark when it started moving again. I then put a mark in the middle and got the chain tight at that point.
But I can't get the pump to time up correctly, it's not advanced enough. I've even tried moving the skew gear but then it ends up too far advanced!
Any ideas?
I've checked and rechecked the cam timing and as far as I can see it's correct!
Firstly I marked when the exhaust valve stopped moving and then another mark when it started moving again. I then put a mark in the middle and got the chain tight at that point.
But I can't get the pump to time up correctly, it's not advanced enough. I've even tried moving the skew gear but then it ends up too far advanced!
Any ideas?
Bern
Member
I've finally just about got it! My worry is that it's a petrol camshaft and because of the difference in profile from the diesel EP is at a different point.
Thanks for all the help.
I still need to change the clutch and rear crankshaft seal and then re-fit it. So it'll be a while before I know if it's improved, or even still works!
Thanks for all the help.
I still need to change the clutch and rear crankshaft seal and then re-fit it. So it'll be a while before I know if it's improved, or even still works!
Bern
Member
I've just removed the flywheel, and noticed that there is quite a bit of play in the crankshaft!
Can't believe I didn't notice it before!
Maybe that explains why it was difficult to time up, if the crank moves forward it's going to make the timing chain tighter, and looser as it moves back?
Anyway, I suspect that engine is scrap!
Can't believe I didn't notice it before!
Maybe that explains why it was difficult to time up, if the crank moves forward it's going to make the timing chain tighter, and looser as it moves back?
Anyway, I suspect that engine is scrap!
Bern
Member
I've bought a short 5 bearing engine, and am trying to make a good engine out of the 2!
But I've a couple of queries:
Firstly, with the existing engine I could turn the crank without the cam (i.e. the pistons would not hit the valves). With the new I can't. Which is correct?
Secondly I've timed the fuel pump at 16 degrees (as for an old 3 bearing), but the Haynes manual says 13 degrees for a 10J but that's with what looks to be a newer injection pump than I have. Again, which is correct? I'm actually tempted to just get the pump timed by trial and error, adjust it until I'm happy (that is, of course, if it starts and runs).
Cheers
But I've a couple of queries:
Firstly, with the existing engine I could turn the crank without the cam (i.e. the pistons would not hit the valves). With the new I can't. Which is correct?
Secondly I've timed the fuel pump at 16 degrees (as for an old 3 bearing), but the Haynes manual says 13 degrees for a 10J but that's with what looks to be a newer injection pump than I have. Again, which is correct? I'm actually tempted to just get the pump timed by trial and error, adjust it until I'm happy (that is, of course, if it starts and runs).
Cheers
