News about today: Washed her, and testing things for a while, front diff is gone, or halfshaft somewhere. French internet is so slooowwwww right now..
 
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Good luck with it. If you need a pair of SIII sills give me a shout. You can have them for postage.

Errr......... didnt you notice some idiots put the steering wheel in the wrong side....... :p
 
Out riggers are not expensive and easy enough to fit if you can weld? A little TLC and you'll be amazed at the transformation! Oh you might need professional help with that Cobweb lol

Chris
 
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Hey thanks bob! i will keep that in mind, i might give you a shout closer to when it's having some paint put on the body.

Well huno, maybe not quite yet, lol. The clutch pedal sticks very badly, you need to bring it back up by hand, same story with the brake pedal, throttle pedal does not seem to actuate smoothly either... Tried to get her running yesterday, to no avail. BUT: had proved something! she turns over on the starter!!

Out riggers are not expensive and easy enough to fit if you can weld? A little TLC and you'll be amazed at the transformation! Oh you might need professional help with that Cobweb lol

Chris

I learned how to weld from my 90. I had to, lots of patching to do, bits to cut off, i could go on lol. So, i'll look up prices for things. This SHOULD be a ground up restoration. There IS a problem with the transfer box. In that the lever for diff lock goes nowhere, and i cannot get it OUT of difflock. Any suggestions?
 
You do realise that there is no centre diff in Series LR? So it isn't a difflock lever, it's an 'engage 4wd knob'.
 
Yea, i realise, but i cant get it to 2wd. I only called it diff lock cos i have never worked with a series land rover before. Only discos and 'fenders me.

The steel shaft can seize where it goes through the ally housing of the box.

Boiling water poured over the housing is a trick an old boy showed me years ago that has worked a few times for me.
 
I know how tempting it it, especially when it fires occasionally, but...

That is the best way to overheat the battery and buckle it's plates and burn out the starter and all the associated wiring. Ten seconds is about the most you should do at a time.
 
Most likely causes are the rod ends or steering relay (in the front crossmember if you haven't come across one yet). Even the tiniest sniff of the oldest oil and grease ought to keep all the axle/swivel internals in reasonable condition, but the swivel ball outsides rusting deeply might cause stiffness. Steering box should be fine too, even though I'd bet that the oil in it has never been changed.
 
I've never really ventured into the series side of the forum before but I'm gonna keep my eye on this one!!

I did chuckle at the comments "I think the battery needs charging" lol
 
I've never really ventured into the series side of the forum before but I'm gonna keep my eye on this one!!

I did chuckle at the comments "I think the battery needs charging" lol

Hah, it was great fun getting Wilfred back to life.

Most likely causes are the rod ends or steering relay (in the front crossmember if you haven't come across one yet). Even the tiniest sniff of the oldest oil and grease ought to keep all the axle/swivel internals in reasonable condition, but the swivel ball outsides rusting deeply might cause stiffness. Steering box should be fine too, even though I'd bet that the oil in it has never been changed.

Found the problem, the steering damper sustained damage and locked solid. It's now removed, but still a bit stiff. It'll need some work i'm sure ;)
 

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