Hi Ryan,

Can you not put it on blocks / axle stands so that when you cut the old out the new one would sit in exactly the same place while you weld.

Apart from that I would take measurements in a straight line and at a diagonal from a position on the front of the chassis tp a position on the rear of the old and chassis and then try and replicate, even if this means welding a datum post in pace in the short term.

Oh, and go and practice your welding before you start playing in the old girl............... :D:D:D

Cheers
 
If you can get hold of or download a copy of the proper workshop manual it has all the chassis dimensions in it. If you do get one just check the dimensions against the chassis as i'm sure I found one that was wrong. Measure everything time and again. Good luck.
 
neilly said:
Hi Ryan,

Can you not put it on blocks / axle stands so that when you cut the old out the new one would sit in exactly the same place while you weld.

Apart from that I would take measurements in a straight line and at a diagonal from a position on the front of the chassis tp a position on the rear of the old and chassis and then try and replicate, even if this means welding a datum post in pace in the short term.

Oh, and go and practice your welding before you start playing in the old girl............... :D:D:D

Cheers
Click to expand...
Yep will probably spend a good while measuring it up from all angles, and staring at it for a long while, what is it you mean by having it on stands to put in the same place? :)
 
LincolnSteve said:
If you can get hold of or download a copy of the proper workshop manual it has all the chassis dimensions in it. If you do get one just check the dimensions against the chassis as i'm sure I found one that was wrong. Measure everything time and again. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Cheers S will do, I will rely on official measurements since I doubt its exactly right as it is right now, as its not even straight... There's no original there :p
 
The replacement chassis part slides over the old by the looks of it so you should be able to get an amount of adjustment when fitting prior to welding.
Make yourself a jig with some box or angle steel and use points on your original chassis (the part that's being replaced) to bolt it to, eg suspension mounts/shackle mounts and other parts that are the same on old and new. Then weld the other end of the jig to the part of the chassis that's not being replaced. Cut and unbolt old, slide new part in bolt up, weld then remove jig.
 
Last edited:
If somebody had the official LR manual, there are plenty of dimensions in that. I can't find my copy at this minute.
 
Spent all day grinding the most of the surface rust off the front end of chassis up to where will be cut out, but only managed about half the job in that time, its come up nice so far and there's no spots that need any more attention than a coat of the chassis in one paint I ordered from buzzweld that hasn't arrived yet, away this weekend so should have it all cleaned up and cut to be painted and ready for new bit welded in!
IMG_20170308_171315.jpg
Not much to update but it keeps me out there chuggin
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Restored 1972 Series 2 Diesel not starting
Replies
16
Views
594
Shedload
S
I
Series 3 Diff Pinion Spacer
Replies
7
Views
509
steve2286w
steve2286w
series 3
Charge light on series 3
Replies
7
Views
795
grewth
G
K
Series 3 1972 SIII Rebuild with RVR 3.5 V8
Replies
0
Views
712
kenixster
K
G
Series 2A Windscreen Bulkhead pivot bolt
Replies
9
Views
1K
Guidoma
G