Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Got a very quick refund on the ep90, and the non ep90 20 litres, because Landy's 'Just love oil'
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
However, reading my Haynes manual, it specifies EP90 for the swivel hubs, both Diffs, transfer box, and to my puzzlement the gearbox too.
This has me scratching my head, because the EP extra protection in EP 90 attacks the surface of yellow metals. Specifically the synchromesh?
Seemingly the EP also polishes the surfaces of the meshed gears which is seemingly a good thing.
So I'm thinking maybe it's a good idea to use up my EP 90 on the rear diff, and switch to using the new 90 GL4 oil for topping up the gearbox and transfer box.
This has me scratching my head, because the EP extra protection in EP 90 attacks the surface of yellow metals. Specifically the synchromesh?
Seemingly the EP also polishes the surfaces of the meshed gears which is seemingly a good thing.
So I'm thinking maybe it's a good idea to use up my EP 90 on the rear diff, and switch to using the new 90 GL4 oil for topping up the gearbox and transfer box.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
I reckon that is an internet myth, to be honest.
I have always used EP90, mineral, in Series gearboxes, I had my first Series in about 1985, and not had any problems with yellow metals.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
SAE stands for Society of Automotive Engineers, who were the classifying body for oils at one time.
Before that it was MIL numbers, which stands for Military, because most of the stuff was meant for vehicles used in the War.
Now it has gone to ACEA spec, which stands for something I cant remember.
To make matters even more confusing, many Manufacturers, incuding Volkswagen, Mack, and Volvo, now have their own systems of classifying oils.
I was unaware that 90EP was different to EP90, and it certainly smells the same.
Most of the Series I have had were from the 60s and 70s, and the oil doesn't seem to have caused the gearboxes any problems.
I also wonder if rebuilders use bronze bearings, as most of the gearboxes will have been rebuilt at least once by now.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
I think that is the case, however my gearbox is 1974. But and the series 3 suffix A,B,C synchro assembly is made of yellow metal, and they do have a tendancy to start jumping out of gear.
Having rebuilt mine just a couple of years ago, would like a few years from it
Worn synchro rings won't cause it to jump out of gear
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Also not sure if all metal that is yellow is bronze.
This explains it well.. non-EP oil..
www.lubetechshop.co.uk
Gear Oil SAE 90 Non Additive Treated Oil API GL1
Athena SAE 90 Monograde Mineral oil based GL-1 gear oil Product Description: Athena SAE grades are a range of non-additive monograde gear lubricants. The Athena SAE grades are a range of oils blended from carefully selected highly refined paraffinic base oils, which exhibit superior oxidation...
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Oooooh, Goody, David Brown spec on that one!This explains it well.. non-EP oil..
Gear Oil SAE 90 Non Additive Treated Oil API GL1
Athena SAE 90 Monograde Mineral oil based GL-1 gear oil Product Description: Athena SAE grades are a range of non-additive monograde gear lubricants. The Athena SAE grades are a range of oils blended from carefully selected highly refined paraffinic base oils, which exhibit superior oxidation...
Who? Eh?Oooooh, Goody, David Brown spec on that one!
Turboman
Mab An Gov
Used to make Tractors. Quite good, I have had several, they were strong, and good starters, but maybe without the finesse of a Massey or a Deere. Still have a following in the more marginal areas, and for use in ploughing matches.
The firm is no longer around, they were taken over by Case, as were IH.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
I retired this year and decided to ease off my daily use of Gigi the 1974 S3 Station wagon, she drove a 55 mile round trip to see a 300TDI 90 Pick-up, and helped me get an awesome discount.
Have been using her for demanding off road woodland work, and she's never let me down, but it's time for her to retire and get tinkered with.
The 300 TDI's proving very useful in the woods, and is keeping me busy with loads of small repairs.
Hopefully I can get back to the 1982 108 Station wagon next year.
Have been using her for demanding off road woodland work, and she's never let me down, but it's time for her to retire and get tinkered with.
The 300 TDI's proving very useful in the woods, and is keeping me busy with loads of small repairs.
Hopefully I can get back to the 1982 108 Station wagon next year.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Just installed a new proper fuel filter in the 75 S3 Station Wagon Gigi.
That's the second cheap rubbish filter that's disconnected internally, and been filtering diddly squat!
Just junk.
After keeping loosing power and stalling, I kinda knew it was junk in the carb.
I had bought some quality fuel filters, just hadn't got round to fighting them, night now it's back to a happy tick over again.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Yep, what a difference filtered fuel makes lol. I did clean the nylon finger filter and brass nut on the carb with carb cleaner.
Had a trip to the woods and got loads of ash logs yesterday, in advance of the wet weather. Here's a pic halfway through the job, and the old girl was a pleasure to drive, with sound cancelling buds lol
Had a trip to the woods and got loads of ash logs yesterday, in advance of the wet weather. Here's a pic halfway through the job, and the old girl was a pleasure to drive, with sound cancelling buds lol
