Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Lol, the axle beam failed on my 750kg trailer last night, so I'll be getting some practice welding in a new one.
Yes, I would like to avoid stuff moving as I rework it. Thus the big bolt, and various extra bits will get temporarily welded on.
My front panel will need a similar repair as yours, so it will be interesting seeing how it works out for yours.
Yes, I would like to avoid stuff moving as I rework it. Thus the big bolt, and various extra bits will get temporarily welded on.
My front panel will need a similar repair as yours, so it will be interesting seeing how it works out for yours.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
This trailor is about 40 years old, orignaly made with Metro wheels, which nobody makes new tyres for.
Not surprising it's rusted just like a Landy chassis lol.
Witth a full crate of logs it went on the way home.
So I need to make a new beam and fit it, before I can continue with the chassis.
It didn't take long to cut the old damaged one off.
This is going to get all the right tools out and being used, which the Landy will need anyway.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
I wish I was at home, but I have to work full time; have been told I must be in...
But when I get home and walk the dog, should get a couple of hours in the garage for my sanity lol
But when I get home and walk the dog, should get a couple of hours in the garage for my sanity lol
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Thanks, got it all apart and have a perfect length of 5mm plate and loads of the 60 x 40 mm tube for the rebuild. It's given more than thirty years, and I don't know if you can see just how much rust had built up between the mounting plates.
Hope to cut the beam and plates tomorrow night, fingers crossed.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Hopefully tomorrow I can get this welded and straight.
Can't wait to get back on with the Landy chassis which is under the trailor
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Finally with some very dry 6013 BOC rods, have got the 1964 Oxford welder out for action
/ATTACH]
It has all new leads and weighs in at about 80 + Kg's, because it's so full of really thick copper windings immersed in oil.
New v old
And the first weld
with the slag removed I'm happy. The plate is 5mm mild steel
Even though I'm having to make a new axle for my trailor and working on top of the Landy chassis, it's satisfying to be getting on with some proper metalwork.
Still I can't wait to be restoring the Landy chassis, because it's going yo be a huge job..
By heck that took all day lol
It has all new leads and weighs in at about 80 + Kg's, because it's so full of really thick copper windings immersed in oil.
New v old
And the first weld
Even though I'm having to make a new axle for my trailor and working on top of the Landy chassis, it's satisfying to be getting on with some proper metalwork.
Still I can't wait to be restoring the Landy chassis, because it's going yo be a huge job..
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but credit must go to the auld Oxford welder. It's a real joy to use.
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Using this Metalmorphosis which is designed for the chassis. But I must be doing something wrong, cos I started with quite clean shiny metal, and now it's all rusty under an acrylic skin ?
Has anyone used this stuff with better results, because I was hoping for a blue/black finish with a protective layer of acrylic which was transparent. Not this mess
If I can't get a cleaner no rust finish, it will have to go. Just glad to have another thing to try it on, other than the Landy Chassis.
Any tips welcome
auld duffer
Well-Known Member
I think the issue is starting with clean shiny metal. There rust converters are generally made to react with and neutralise rust , The chemical reaction between the rust converter and the ferrous oxide turns the rust to a neutral black finish. What has happened with your job there is that the acid base of the converter eaten into the surface on the clean metal opening it the atmosphere and causing it to rust . Its the same thing if you use brick acid / patio cleaner the rust will get neutralised while clean metal goes rusty .. The only thing you did wrong was to apply the solution to clean metal .. Bloody chemistry ..
A gallon of patio cleaner is a lot cheaper
A gallon of patio cleaner is a lot cheaper
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Lol,
Seemed like a good idea at the time !
Seemed like a good idea at the time !
auld duffer
Well-Known Member
Its like using Etch primer over paint ..DOH ! every days a school day 
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Maybe I should just paint a little Tannic acid over any rust that doesn't clean off with the wire wheel
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
Tried some of this stuff and it works a treat
Even over the other stuff directly
Wow it's just so much better
Even over the other stuff directly
Wow it's just so much better
Wagon Loon
Well-Known Member
So,
Both these trailer suspension units have been treated exactly the same way
With these respective products.
For me there is a clear winner so I will be throwing over £20 worth of one away which really hurts. My Scottish forefathers will turn in their grave ಠ︵ಠ
Here's a question...
Could I spray the inside of my Chassis with KURUST ?
I'm so impressed with how it has even blackened the nut and washers too.
auld duffer
Well-Known Member
If you can get it in there you can do it ..
