cartman690

cartman690

New Member
HELP PLEASE
Any ideas welcome.
I bought a diesel 2a 1969 swb station wagon last week, brakes were straight to the floor, but would come back after 6 pumps on the pedal, ive changed the master cylnder and bled the system, I now have a consant pedal however the brakes are locking on. the only way to release the brakes is to open any bleed nipple, I've checked all shoes and springs are insalled correctly and am running out of ideas...:confused: :rolleyes: :eek: Thanks Cartman690...

Before I fixed it I couldn't stop...:mad:

now I've fixed it I can't go...:rolleyes:
 
Hi Slob...
I thought about that I've put it about where it was on the old cylinder however the old one could have been set up wrong. ive checked at local L R parts shop of spring locations on shoes etc. but dont know the setup on the cylinder, is there a setup process you know of I havn't got a book yet...:rolleyes:
 
not off hand but i'm sure it has to have a bit of play other wise it will jam yer brakes on. if no-one comes up with the answer i'll check it out and let you know.
 
Cheers Slob apreciate any help or advice...Anyone got a heinz manual and can advise what it says I have'nt got one yet cheers cartman690...
 
It's the adjustment on the master cylinder I reckon as Slob says. I had the same prob when I fitted a new one.

Regards WP.
 
Cheers Wesley, I'll give it a tweek when I see it on sunday, I'll use the trial and error method unless anyone has a setup measurement or anything. thanks and regards, cartman690...
 
Hi again gang tried adjusting rod every whitch and way still brakes lock on or peddal goes straight to the floor on closer inspection 2 bleed nips are missing and 1 siezed so gonna replace the slaves and try again, still welcome any ideas or advice though regards cartman690...
 
Happened to me once that brake pedal would gradually loose all free motion until you were driving along with the brakes on. As you use the brakes the fluid heats up and needs to be able to exapand back into the reserbvoir. There is a valve in the master cylinder which allows it to do this, but it closes when you press the pedal. In mine the valve had jammed shut. If you left it to cool down for half an hour it would come back to normal. Sounds like yours is sometimes stuck open sometimes shut. Have you got some muck stuck in there? In my case it needed a new master cylinder, but I think you alrady tried that - unless you got a faulty one??
 
cheers percaytok, The problem I've got is from cold, I've put a new master cylnder in it and its the same as before its got to be somthing simple that I'm missing but its driving me nuts. I'm in spain at the mo but I need to sort it out as soon as I get back, so any more ideas are most welcome thanks cartman690...:confused:
 
I don't suppose you have checked the adjusters? If the previous owner had wound these up to counter the loss of pedal then they may need re adjusting now you have a new master cylinder.
 
what braking system do you have, in terms of single or duel circuit with or without servo. and any other bits. give us a list of what you've done and what you have replaced.
btw the push rod clearance should be 1/16"..if i remember correctly
 
cheers guys, adjusters were wound right up but still allowing wheel rotation with no shoe rub, thanks for the info on the cyl adjuster slob I should have a heinz book by time i get back to the uk, but just in case it aint covered is that measurement from the bulkhead end? ps its single curcuit no servo and drums all round, master cyl pipe goes to 3 point distribution 1 each side front and single shared pipe to the rear, thanks again you guys for help and advise, Ill persist and post result when fixed, I bet its somthing realy simple though...:eek:
 
dunt matter where you measure it . its the amount of freeplay.
ah reckon if you can move the pedal 1/4" you should be about right
 
after 3 days of hard work an alot of cussin brakes are fine, 1 new drum, 2 axle shoe kits, 4 new slave cylnders, new master cylnder, new adjuster kit, 2 bloddy knuckles, and divorce pending, thanks to all you guys for your ongoing help, support and p*ss taking...:) :D
 
cartman690 said:
after 3 days of hard work an alot of cussin brakes are fine, 1 new drum, 2 axle shoe kits, 4 new slave cylnders, new master cylnder, new adjuster kit, 2 bloddy knuckles, and divorce pending, thanks to all you guys for your ongoing help, support and p*ss taking...:) :D
Click to expand...
That's what we do best !!!!!!!!!!

Regards WP.
 
hi Guys
I too have had this problem on a 2a I have just acquired and in my case it was the spring positions.
My rear brake springs were located from the leading shoe to a post on the back plate (correct)
and my front springs were located from shoe to shoe (wrong).

see
http://www.roversnorth.com/techtips/ttbrake.html


The brakes in my S2a SWB are single leading shoes 10" drums with a single adjuster.

If you place the springs from shoe to shoe then:-

1st press of the pedal will go to the floor and the cylinders will move the trailing shoe out towards the drum
2nd press may work (trailing shoe reaches the drum)

release the pedal and the springs from shoe to shoe will pull the trailing shoe all the way home and push the fluid back up the pipe in to the tank.
This last bit takes about 20 secs.

And it is vital to get the master cylinder end play correct other wise as "Slob" suggested it will lock the breaks on and cook them as I found out when I drove my new s2a home.
Cost new cylinders / drums / shoes and 3 days work lucky the guy who sold it was a good sort and supplied up the parts.
That is something else I will have to look out for next time I buy a new toy.



 
how could we forget the ****s that put bits back on wrong???? took me a couple of days to figure out why my front wheels had stacks of neg camber... fooking swivels where on upside down.
 
Cheers Clivees good link. glad I'm not the only one to have these problemes the main problem on mine was air in the rear system and a leaking master cylinder, but with all the bleed screws snapped off they couldnt be bled, an out of tolerance rear deeply scored drum, and the adjuster profiles were heavely worn. and everything stripped, snapped or siezed changed the lot in the end. springs were all fitted corectly though. but slob sorted out the master cylinder adjustment from there it all started falling in place...next problem sorting out the engine and box...
 
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