Hello I'm dean I've got 61 series 2 and I've fitted it with a p38 2.5 diesel and bolted up to a series box I've done about 20000 in it with no gearbox issues so far . I'm just on with changing a few bits I didn't like eg having no engine fan and fitting a defender rad and intercooler etc .

Sounds good, any pictures?

I ll get some pics and put them on in the next few days .

Looking forward to seeing them. I have a soft spot for that engine Is yours run on a mechanical or electrical FIP.....It's quite a long engine and fills my range rover classic engine bay. You must have worked miracles to squeeze it into a series 2

I had a mechanical pump done by diesel bob .its a tight fit to get it in but once it's sat on its mounts it's not too bad for room that is until you refit that stupid inlet manifold .I was doing a bit on it tonight and meant to get a pic but I completely forgot

Well done. Did the Mechanical FIP conversion cost much?. I am asking because I would love to have a spare just in case my own one packs up.
I always wondered was it just a case of taking the top off and replacing with a mechanical set-up with minimal internal work required.

landyboots said:

Well done. Did the Mechanical FIP conversion cost much?. I am asking because I would love to have a spare just in case my own one packs up.
I always wondered was it just a case of taking the top off and replacing with a mechanical set-up with minimal internal work required.

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It's not cheap 570 I think it was .diesel bob in Ribchester lancashire he will mess about with pumps where as most just want sell you a new one . You lose a little top end power but gain lots of low down torque

Dean Whittam said:

It's not cheap 570 I think it was .diesel bob in Ribchester lancashire he will mess about with pumps where as most just want sell you a new one . You lose a little top end power but gain lots of low down torque

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I still have the top off the original pump the electronic part it did work fine as engine I got was still running in the car so I know it did work .If anyone wants one let me know it won't be expensive .

This what happens when a Ford focus gets in a landrover s way .focus is mashed

You can just see the top of the inlet manifold of Bmw diesel it's sat a lot lower down and it helps with handling a LOT !!! .if can think on tonight I ll get a couple of pictures and put them on .

Looking

Dean Whittam said:

You can just see the top of the inlet manifold of Bmw diesel it's sat a lot lower down and it helps with handling a LOT !!! .if can think on tonight I ll get a couple of pictures and put them on .

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Looking forward to seeing them

My memory is crap but I ll try to think on and do it

Dean Whittam said:

My memory is crap but I ll try to think on and do it

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What is yours like for starting Dean?. Mine is a pig to start from cold and not much better when hot. She'll always fire up but requires 1 minute of Glow plugs to get there. I was hoping you could help out seeing as you are the only other member with the mechanical FIP.

Cheers.

mine starts better cold but even when its hot it starts ok it spins over two or three turns and away it goes , alot of the problems with hot starting is the pump is hot and the fuel expands therefore not injecting enough fuel , get it hot then turn it off and run a hose pipe of cold water on the pump then try and start it if it improves then its heat thats your enemy im on with fitting an electric fan from an evoque im going to wire it for two speeds and run it slow all the time to keep air flowing but i also think i have a very slight air leak in a fuel line the bosch pump will cope with a little air in fuel but heat in the mix really excaserbates the problem , so check everything twice

oh yeah i run a discovery heater relay to and i dont heat it more than once in cold weather it never needs it .

Dean Whittam said:

oh yeah i run a discovery heater relay to and i dont heat it more than once in cold weather it never needs it .

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Thanks for the info....I must have a more serious problem than I thought so. I don't think it's compression because it has plenty of power and torque when running. So, worn pump, timing chain stretched or timing way out, although it's not smoky except under hard acceleration. I know the pump has been tweeked by a previous owner because it's running a huge Iveco truck intercooler. It's a PITA sitting there in the mornings having to press and hold a pushbutton for the glowplugs for at least a minute, to have any chance of starting. I had to ditch the relay as it would never fire with the on/off cycle of a relay.

I've had engines that have been timed 180 degrees out and they ran fine no smoke etc but slowly got harder to start check your timing is ok especially if someone else has been tweeking about under there .mine will black smoke if i hammer it but my turbo was well worn .those bosch pumps are pretty bullet proof apart the electronic bit on top but that either works or doesn't .

Yes, I will have to. It would be the right place to start.....Does that pump have a slotted mounting set-up where the pump can be turned on the housing to adjust timing?

Cheers.

yes it does two bolts one on either side the one nearest the engine is a bit awkward to see but its there long extension down the back should do it but dont touch starter though, the correct way is set your engine on tdc no1 and fit a special adapter in the pump the nut in centre of the injector pipes and fit a dial gauge, then turn the engine backwards well past the 14 degrees btdc then turn it the right way and as you reach 14 degrees the dial gauge should start to lift this is the start of injection if its not right then adjust your pump accordingly , im not sure if 14 degrees is correct i cant remember and you will need a circle marked in degrees ebay 11 quid i think and use the crank pulley bolt to fix it on, engine at tdc and zero degrees , now for gods sake make sure you tighten that bolt when your done because if it comes loose it will affect your oil pressure oh and your cam at tdc the first two lobes on the cam should both point away from the engine and be level accross the cam bearing cap to alter the cam remove the vac pump and loosen the bolt in the middle of sprocket its a torx head dont remove it just loosen it the sprocket is only held in position by a taper a good tap with a soft face hammer should loosen it look down the cam and you will see a hex for a spanner to fit this is to help adjust and hold it while you tighten it up . if remember rightly my cam was out very slightly and when i resett it it made a noteable improvement ... if you do alter the cam please turn your engine over till your back at tdc no 1 with a spanner to ensure no valve to piston contact NOT GOOD things get bent . its not hard to do but you need to be patient and take your time . oh dont remove the inj pump bolts just loosen them other wise your pump will move and slacken the chain and remember always turn the engine the right way before adjusting anything to ensure the timing chains are tight and the slack is taken up , apparently the timing chains are prone to stretching on these engines if thats the case then all this checking and adjusting wont solve all your problems it might alleviate them for a while though .this is not exactly text book or an exact discription of the process it merely to give you a rough idea so if you do attempt it make sure you understand it .

Lot's of information there to think about. I might just start with the timing chain and see where that takes me but, thanks for all the detailed information. You certainly know these engines and your way around them.

Cheers.