Jon1965
Member
Yes the chassis is very solid obvious repairs in the past .I was going to replace but have decided to renovate the chassis including replace rear crossmember strip back rust seal and paint plus any patches .the bulkhead needs attention at the top end . I want to bring this vehicle to a good safe standard as a proper restoration would take me in a different direction 
Well done sir !
Too many chassis get scrapped when a few weekends of welding would keep them going for years.
BTW, someone has swapped out the Rover type axle for a later Salisbury, and if it's OK, that can only be a good thing.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
A whack round the chassis with a 1/2lb ball pin hammer is a god test , same age as me! And looks in better Nick
tottot
Well-Known Member
Been re registered with an A plate at some time, it may be for historic reasons possible to get its 59 plate reinstated.
Bonnet correct for model, Most 109 2's had the round front so called deluxe bonnet.
One wiper is correct for when new daft as it seems. My 58 was like that and so was my 63 2a.
Very little difference in door bottom's from Series 2 to end of 3 production.
Door tops look like alloy double sliding types that military like on their 110's If so I would keep them as much better than normal ones that rust away in no time.
Looks like a curved valance [blue] in front of grill. Would have had a flat one.
Bonnet correct for model, Most 109 2's had the round front so called deluxe bonnet.
One wiper is correct for when new daft as it seems. My 58 was like that and so was my 63 2a.
Very little difference in door bottom's from Series 2 to end of 3 production.
Door tops look like alloy double sliding types that military like on their 110's If so I would keep them as much better than normal ones that rust away in no time.
Looks like a curved valance [blue] in front of grill. Would have had a flat one.
I once owned a '59 Series 2 (88") which had been re registered on an "A" plate.
Enquiries to discover the original registration led nowhere, despite the date of registration being 1/1/59.
Presumably the original reg had been transferred off onto some posh gits luxury car.
Best I could get was an age related plate issued, three letters, three digits.
Enquiries to discover the original registration led nowhere, despite the date of registration being 1/1/59.
Presumably the original reg had been transferred off onto some posh gits luxury car.
Best I could get was an age related plate issued, three letters, three digits.
Jon1965
Member
Thanks for info .bonnet type had me puzzled hinges appear right also saw pics of early series2 with1 wiper .I'm getting a repro flat valance the log book shows 16 Jan 1959 and will enquire about age related plate later on . The vehicle has to be authenticated that's another reason I wanted to keep chassis . The reissued age related plates are non transferable .
Hello, I am a new member and a newcomer to Land Rovers as well but a fan from a distance. I hope to embark on a restoration similar to what you plan on doing. I met online a retired Land Rover "specialist" who does rebuilds/restorations now as a hobby and takes on projects.
I was wondering if you have made a calculation on what it will cost in terms of replacement parts for your project. If you have would you be wiling to share just so I may be more acquainted with the costs involved.
Thank you.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
* The specialist I met subs the paintwork and engine rebuild to the expert specialists. He estimates a total cost of parts & works by all to come to 18,000 pounds plus a "donor" vehicle at 2,000 pounds. He puts his time, skill and knowledge at 15,000 pounds.
From pictures I see from him all work is excellent. Project time is 6-8 months. Would appreciate anyones advice and helpful comments.
I am sorry to cut into your message thread as it seems I had gone further than initially intended
I was wondering if you have made a calculation on what it will cost in terms of replacement parts for your project. If you have would you be wiling to share just so I may be more acquainted with the costs involved.
Thank you.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
* The specialist I met subs the paintwork and engine rebuild to the expert specialists. He estimates a total cost of parts & works by all to come to 18,000 pounds plus a "donor" vehicle at 2,000 pounds. He puts his time, skill and knowledge at 15,000 pounds.
From pictures I see from him all work is excellent. Project time is 6-8 months. Would appreciate anyones advice and helpful comments.
I am sorry to cut into your message thread as it seems I had gone further than initially intended
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Seems fair, takes an age to do good work. Cheap, fast and good. Pick two.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Cost it up at £20 per hour.
Wildefalcon
Well-Known Member
Otherwise he'd work at Tesco's as a driver.
Unless I'm reading it incorrectly that's about 30K + by the time all is finished.
I'm just wondering what the Series Two pickup (the OP) will cost to get up to a solid, running reliable daily driver ?
OK, so it will never be an "investment grade" vehicle, but I honestly prefer something original that has history and patina.
I'm just wondering what the Series Two pickup (the OP) will cost to get up to a solid, running reliable daily driver ?
OK, so it will never be an "investment grade" vehicle, but I honestly prefer something original that has history and patina.
Jon1965
Member
OK some numbers originally I would have budgeted around 10k including new chassis but not paint .but now that's reduced but still covers a lot of bought items ,kits , upgraded parts and labour costs .the dilemma is do you start with a project vehicle or a better example .where do you add value and I don't mean in money for resale .on and on it goes to end up with a vehicle that may look the same so £2k+ would deal with axles , brakes electrics and welding .my labour is free .I to have went back and forward with this .
