norseman · Jun 20, 2021

Henry_b said:
Post August 89 there is a rumour that the steel used was contaminated, but to be fair they all rust at the same rate unless it is pumped full of preservative.
My P38 for example is 20yrs old and has never been covered in Dinitrol or Waxoyl and lives outside, in her early years was a seaside motor and has absolutely no rust..

Considering how the early Disco's, built at the same time/place, turned to powder makes that rumour well founded
Rust resistance does seem to be the P38's claim to fame, pity LR couldn't follow it up.
nb. on the rusty Classic front, I had a '85 (one of the first EFI's) that had intergalactic mileage (& 15 PO's) but no serious corrosion & that didn't appear to have any post factory protection

Jtrigga90 · Jul 9, 2021

Update time here’s a few photos of the rust, it’s in the body shop now getting all done price is just over £1000 for both sides all cut out repaired and painted. I’ll find out in a few days the results.

marjon · Jul 9, 2021

Wow

.

god luck with that estimate once they dig

or is it a fixed price?

but keep the faith

J

Jtrigga90 · Jul 9, 2021

marjon said:
Wow.

god luck with that estimate once they dig or is it a fixed price?

but keep the faith

J

It was originally £700 then with the discovery of the extent of the rust it’s now just over £1k.

Agarange · Jul 10, 2021

Mine is going in similar places. The back third of the sills on mine are rotting.

Rear door shuts are £70 got those ordered. Ill let you know how much it ends up costing me. M & J in acton are doing the work.

I think its worth doing before the rot spreads.

tomcat59alan · Jul 10, 2021

Agarange said:
Mine is going in similar places. The back third of the sills on mine are rotting.

Rear door shuts are £70 got those ordered. Ill let you know how much it ends up costing me. M & J in acton are doing the work.

I think its worth doing before the rot spreads.

I must sound like a broken record but do they realise it's Boron steel? Use the search facility top right of page it's been discussed recently.

Agarange · Jul 10, 2021

I hope yours get fixed so it does not go again. I dont think the price you have been quoted is unfair. Theres alot of work to do.

Out of interest how is old is your car. Mine 2004. I have seen similar rot on 2009 cars.

Now i have had a good look under mine there are lots of areas where rust prevention needs topping up.

Another area that may need attention like it does on mine is the spare wheel well. No rot on mine yet but there is rust in the seems. That will become rot one day if not addressed soon. What yours like.

Suspension subframes and there mounts possibly need attention. Not rot but the powder coating is not what it was.

Seems (pun intended) LR/BMW could have done a much better job on the body work.

The use of boron steels is part of the problem thinner steel rots through more quickly and there are issues with being able to protect steels like this from corrosion. Boron it self is not always distributed evenly throughout the steel and boron gets precipitated at grain boundries. This leads to galvanic corrosion between areas of higher boron and lower boron content in the presence of salt water and there are a number of areas where water and mud (laden with salts) get trapped. That corrosion slowly turns into rot.

Agarange · Jul 10, 2021

Yes they know what they are doing and know what steel is used in these cars. The owner has a l322 and they work on cars. Modern fords use boron steels as do so many other like jags, LR's, audis e.t.c so it pretty common and they will be aware.

Your post may come across by some as a bit patronising. Body work is not something most can do themselves so it has to be left to those that can. One has to trust they know what they are doing.

Its best to apprroach shops that you contract to do work with the understanding they know more about what you are asking them to do that you do. Its quite annoying for them to get customers to impose there knowledge upon them. I get that in my line of work. My repsonse is we will check through and see whats wrong based on what we find.

Forums are great places but one should not go to the doctor with the solution to your ills or even what the ill is. Thats what the doctor is for, its why you went right? Likewise for body work i will leave it the sheet metal workers and welders to do there thing because it really is there thing. I like experts. I have my skills they have there's. I trust there's. That trust is not misplaced.

Likewise the people who told me a normal garage cannot fix RR problems have not been to the garage i use. They have fixed them all. The specialist i tried did not have a clue in fact his fault code reader did not connect to the suspension ecu and he wiped fault codes without investigating what caused them.

Can we have a more trusting and postive attitude here. It would be nice. I know your trying to help but i will not and would not advise anyone going to a shop and telling them how to do there job.

marjon · Jul 10, 2021

Agarange said:
Why is it every time a post is done the assumption made the shop in question has no clue what they are doing.
Yes they know what they are doing and know what steel is used in these cars. The owner has a l322.

Chill

It quite often happens that when a post is read the obvious to you/me/him/her is not obvious because it was not mentioned.

It was a point of note and at no way pointed at you or your workshop.

J

tomcat59alan · Jul 10, 2021

Agarange said:
Why is it every time a post is done the assumption made the shop in question has no clue what they are doing.

Yes they know what they are doing and know what steel is used in these cars. The owner has a l322.

After many years in the motor trade from experience I've found that not everyone knows but they can talk the talk.If you've found someone who knows what they're doing well done. As the L322 hasn't got a chassis and relies on the body shell for its rigidity, unlike the P38 which has a heavy ladder chassis.

Jtrigga90 · Jul 10, 2021

Agarange said:
I hope yours get fixed so it does not go again. I dont think the price you have been quoted is unfair. Theres alot of work to do.

Out of interest how is old is your car. Mine 2004. I have seen similar rot on 2009 cars.

Now i have had a good look under mine there are lots of areas where rust prevention needs topping up.

Another area that may need attention like it does on mine is the spare wheel well. No rot on mine yet but there is rust in the seems. That will become rot one day if not addressed soon. What yours like.

Suspension subframes and there mounts possibly need attention. Not rot but the powder coating is not what it was.

Seems (pun intended) LR/BMW could have done a much better job on the body work.

The use of boron steels is part of the problem thinner steel rots through more quickly and there are issues with being able to protect steels like this from corrosion. Boron it self is not always distributed evenly throughout the steel and boron gets precipitated at grain boundries. This leads to galvanic corrosion between areas of higher boron and lower boron content in the presence of salt water and there are a number of areas where water and mud (laden with salts) get trapped. That corrosion slowly turns into rot.

I thought the price was fair too I’d budgeted that amount. Mines a 2006 with a late TD6, I’ve had the spare out and checked all in the spare and that’s all good a few surface bits nothing bad, bit of rust remedy should stop any more.

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