If too much heat is put into the weld the metal will become brittle and prone to cracking as it cools,bit like cast ironLet us know how you get on.
Don’t let that “boron” issue scare you as personally in a rear arch panel how can that hurt.
As @myfirstl322 joggle and bond, or braze for outer panel
Let’s face it I think they are mostly stuck together on top anyway
J
And allow water in so your back to square one after a short time especially it winter salt is involved. If the welder knows his trade and what he's dealing with,short weld runs to reduce heat input works. Yes been there,used to spend 25 hour stint welding cast granulator housings, heating them up , welding then controlled cooling.Yep understand that, wheel arch
J
Cast welding is an art with patience, especially bloody arc welding...And allow water in so your back to square one after a short time especially it winter salt is involved. If the welder knows his trade and what he's dealing with,short weld runs to reduce heat input works. Yes been there,used to spend 25 hour stint welding cast granulator housings, heating them up , welding then controlled cooling.
That's why it was a 25hr shift, double time and three days off.
My God, what age is this car?
I've have an 'eighties Classic for 13 years that had none of that crud when I bought it, nor has it now. Seems like LR has gone backwards
Please elaborate.
Probably Googling elaborate.You can't expect an immediate response from someone who drags his arris through autumnal leaves.
I've seen approximately 1 person on here in 11 years deign to ask about L322 'coil' springs.
I was so wound up ...I'll never get that time back you know.
, people forget that the L322 relies on body strength as opposed to the P38 which has a bloody big chassis. coils indeed, while you're on have you finished with my summer frock and big girls knickers,or was it @holidaychicken that borrowed them??We both borrowed them, but I had them first so cannot lay claim to the abhorrent mess they were left in.Probably Googling elaborate.
Yours was probably all replaced before you got it.
Unlikely.
2 owners, used as a company directors chariot for the first year then sold to an old boy who garaged it for 20 years & covered an average of 1K per year per annum. MOT's show the car as only covering the 14m round trip to the test station sometimes & the underside was sprayed with oil, or something similar, every year.
Still has the original dealer plates, sticker in the rear window & VED holder ... now displaying a retro duplicate of the car's first disc
So I say again ... why do modern LR's rust whilst most other manuf. (of much cheaper cars) have pretty much defeated the bug
Hello 'enery you been furloughed from the forum?
Hiya Alan.Hello 'enery you been furloughed from the forum?
If it was driven daily then it would of been swept in to a dust pan 20yrs ago, a side affect of BL steel and galvanic corrosion, my 1991 Classic was low mileage 69k but needed sills, crossmember and front floor pans.
Post August 89 there is a rumour that the steel used was contaminated, but to be fair they all rust at the same rate unless it is pumped full of preservative.I think you'll find that pre '89 Classics (ie pre Disco production) benefited from better steel.
The fact that mine has been pressure treated with Dinitrol twice in my ownership & is to be done again this summer may have something to do with it.
Yes there is some galvanic problems, but they are very minor & the only welding has been to the seat belt mounts on the rear inner wings.
The car is parked in the open with just a half-cover on it & has been for the past 13 years. Starts first time every time with a new battery every 5 years.
I wouldn't touch the newer models with a barge pole
