davidsmith1307

Well-Known Member
Opinions please.

If you have a Disco 1 that you want to keep and it has a solid chassis and has had all the usual rot points fixed (for the moment) do you think it is worth getting it professionally Dinitrol or Waxoyl treated?

Will this keep the rot away and hold it in its current position or is it too late?

Only saying because I'm looking at a 200Tdi that is (currently) solid.
 
Do it yourself.

I do the inside of my chassis and sills with 50/50 mix of old oil and waxoyl - probably every two years.

I'm working my way around everything else with a 2" brush. Very slow but very theraputic and it means I do a visual on absolutely everything on the underside. OSF wing off at the moment, looking lovely and black.
 
Do it yourself as you can properly inspect for ,clean up and repair any rust

Your problems will occur at a later date when waxoiling over existing rot as it will just get worse and spread

i have an endless supply of waste gear oil so im currently putting that inside my chassis ,i just hope the enviroment agency dont inspect my yard any time soon !

mines far from rust free although the chassis looks good ive had to patch behind the rear springs when i changed them and the crossmember infront of the fuel tank needs patched when i replace the boot floor ,welding is a good skill to learn if you plan to keep your disco long term
 
I bought what looked like a solid chassis and discovery.until i started stripping to waxoyl and it had ben treated over existion rust wo like chris said it had rotted from inside out basically.
 

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Opinions please.

If you have a Disco 1 that you want to keep and it has a solid chassis and has had all the usual rot points fixed (for the moment) do you think it is worth getting it professionally Dinitrol or Waxoyl treated?

Will this keep the rot away and hold it in its current position or is it too late?

Only saying because I'm looking at a 200Tdi that is (currently) solid.

IMHO, it is definitely worth waxoyling a solid disco. Whether it is best done professionally comes down to how much time you have to do the job, and what facilities you already have, or can beg borrow or ????

the more time, effort and skill goes into the process, the better, I.E. the longer lasting, the results. There is a well know guy who takes the best part of a day to treat an essentially new vehicle - I.E. one that is rust free - and he has rather good facilities set up to do this job, and little else. My point here is that to expect to make progress in rust treating a much older vehicle in a short space of time, is, IMHO unrealistic.

in my experience, its the inside bits of sections (that you can't see) that will bite you on the bum, Not to state the blindingly obvious, but the external surface of, for example, the chassis, is easy to treat and keep essentially rust free - but what is going on inside??? So, I try to spend more time gaining access to them, and cleaning them out etc, long before treatment - preparation is king. It takes time, can be as boring as hell, but I know of no other way.

I have no experience of Corroless, but do use fertan, (and Waxoyl), and have had good results them.

It obviously can be too late, but if the thing is solid now, then any treatment at all will extend its life...
 
Cheers gents. Main thing would be to get plenty into the chassis and cross members asap. And the sills.
Then treat all the external bits.
Just the ali oxide corrosion issues then...
 
Fertan is amazing stuff, but have a look for bilt hamber Dynax-s50 for the cavities. Theres also a university study into corrosion protection coatings including dinitrol, dynax s-50 and waxoil (amongst others) and the bilt hamber dynax stuff comes out on top, just beating Dinitrol.
 
No idea, but fertan smells good though watch out as it smells really good to the wasps! The little buggers were all over it when I was rust treating the disco a year or two back!
 
Just started on my rustproofing today. Not sure how it will all work out but learning all the way. I have posted a thread.
 
I bought what looked like a solid chassis and discovery.until i started stripping to waxoyl and it had ben treated over existion rust wo like chris said it had rotted from inside out basically.

+1 alpine windows leak meaning underneath protection wont save her from a rotten quarter, floor and arches. Buy a vehicle that has had all this replaced.
 
Hi all, thought you may like to know how I'm the owner of a Disco2 with a chassis that looks like it's just come out of the factory. Firstly...there's a growing realisation between LR enthusiasts that Waxoyling over steel that's started its oxidisation cycle simply traps and even excellerates the process and once the rust becomes friable (crusty) the wax coating is simply lifted from the deteriorating surface, moisture starts to accumulate behind the wax and the deterioration quickly becomes full de-lamination of oxide sheets and that's the dreaded rot. What's needed is a passivating liquid that actively penetrates into the friable rust and stays liquid and continually capilliars into micro fissures so as to drive water vapour out, once wax has set then its simply like papering over the cracks in an old wall. Ive found the best liquid isn't all these expensive and flashy converters and surface laying products but your good old friend oil (not old engine oil because it's full of acidic byproducts from the combustion process and not gear oil as it won't displace water vapour to well) and the best one for the job is Duck Oil marketed by Swarfega, fantastically water displacing, very penetrative, constantly mobile and passivating. A quick spray over the complete underside of the vehicle ( protect discs with old clean cloths) every six months is all that is needed to protect external surfaces. Just as critical though is the chassis and cills internal surfaces and this is ware you have to be assured the total coverage is achieved, Chassis Wand (on eBay) will fully atomise Duck Oil and with its very slim three metre wand will access the entire chassis structure through the chassis end aperture, breathing holes and water drainage holes.
Hope this is of interest...
 

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