Dopey_1983

Dopey_1983

New Member
Ok so its not quite that bad. :)

I have given my 110 a good look over today and I have spotted paint bubbles in several places :(

The most worrying bit is a small amount of rust just in the top corners of the bulkhead, around the hinges on the seconf row doors and the sills seem pretty knackered but the mechanic that has been seeing a lot of it recently said the sills weren't anything to worry about. The problem is I want to replace the side steps with running boards but all the bolts are well and trully rusted:mad: Is it easy enough to replace the sills and would it be worth while putting rocksliders on and not bothering about the steps.

Thanks
 
I also meant to ask what is the best thing to do about the rusty bits as I tried to tidy the wheel arches on my old car and it just ended up a bloody mess:eek:

So what is the best way for me to go about sorting this?

Thanks
 
I am not having a good night:eek:

I also wanted to mention that the cappings at the back are looking quite scabby and was wondering if it is a big job to change them? :)

Thanks
 
De rust the bulkhead asap or you'll end up having to do major work. Dont bother with the cills, a bit of heat WD40 and a big hammer should sort the bolts out.
 
I've just derusted my bulkhead on my defender.

Have a good prob, and poke behind your dash too. I did - and found 4 good sized holes that had to welded!

Obvioulsy this means taking the dash out, and turns into a bigger job than expected.... But don't they always.

In fact I'm still trying to work out how the get the dash back in.:eek:
 
Here's pics of what I found behind my dash... Hope they help.

kkkkkkkkkk.jpg


hhhhhh.jpg


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It took me about a week to weld grind out, and weld some plate on, and then saturate the bugger in waxoil.... that was doing a bit each night after work.

The big hole below the wiper motor. I welded plate to it from the cab, and removed the heater box from the engine bay, and welded a second plate over that too.



The two top holes I ground away the rust, and shaped a piece of plate the fit. It was also rotten where it meets the windscreen. so, I pulled away as much of the foam seal as needed, and welded a bit of plate in. instead of fitting a new seal I ran a good bead of black Sikoflex along the gap, and clean it up with white spirit.

hope this makes some degree of sense.
 
I had some surface bubbling on Edith's bulkhead, had a wee probe with a screwdriver, turned into a few holes, turned into a few bigger holes, turned into a new bulkhead, turned into new outriggers, followed by chassis probling, turned into new chassis, turned into probing bodywork, turned into lots of ally repairwork, turned into knackered fixings and bolts and wiring and trim and suspension and axles.....

BEWARE THE SURFACE BUBBLING!!!!
 
Thanks for all the help but does anyone have any less scary stories?

Also I was kinda looking for advice on how to treat the rust as like I said I tried before and made a complete pigs ear of it.

Thanks again
 
As Ads says - it depends how bad it is when you uncover it all - It may be "repairable" with rustproofing wax, rust proofing paint paint and filler, it may need a welded patch or two for a proper fix, it could get by with a repair panel, you may need a footwell and at the end of the spectrum a new bulkhead.

You tend to get scary stories with Land Rovers as for all their off-roading brilliance they are put together in a way that traps water, mud and roadsalt, helps the rust along with electrolytic corrosion and as working vehicles they tend to have been abused by at least one previous owner.

The more you examine them the more angry you get with Land Rover for building such an excellent vehicle in such a ****e and reckless way.

Edith my 90 looked allright, but the more you uncover the worse it can get. Saying that I knew that a year ago and bodged some repairs to get it thru an MOT, but I knew a partial or full rebuild was looming.

Muddy my 110 is 4 years old and the rust and aluminium corrosion is already well under way despite regular cleaning, waxing, power hosing, 6 month servicing and loving care. Imagine how bad she'd be if I worked a farm and never touched her!

Brace yourself, that's all I'll say....
 
It is just a tiny bit of bubbling in the corner where it meets the bulk head and I also noticed a bit inside above the clutch pedal. The floor panels all seem ok the chassis is in great nick according to the mechanic that has been working on it for me. Should he of noticed when he was replacing the engine recently if there was anything major with the bulkhead?? I will try and get photos when my wife returns.

Thanks again for all the help
 
Floor panels are ally he probbly wouldn't notice the top of the bulkhead unless he was having a good poke about.
 
Hi, I have tried to upload photos but i keeps telling me that was an invalid request. Any ideas what I am doing wrong?

Thanks
 
Hi all, I have added some photos of what I found after a bit of digging around. I couldn't have a great look as I didn't have time to remove all the dash to have a look but I already found a wee hole. The photo that shows the rust just inside the door is this rust on the footwell or sill?? I have included a photo of the little bit of rust on the outside that made me concerned in the first place. Also I have included a photo of next to the hinge for the middle doors and the rust around that.
 

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  • Clutch Pedal.jpg
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  • Footwell.jpg
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  • Hinge.jpg
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sheet boy ma inner tubes have more rust than that on them. looks like you got it in time... i'll post some piccies of real rust fer you tomorrow
 
Bugger I forgot to post the worst pic. I hope its not to bad as I couldn't see most of the bulkhead. I was also wondering about how to treat the rust on the door post. Do I just rub it down, go over it with something like kurust then spray it again. Also do I do the same thing to the alloy panels.

Thank guys
 

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  • Back door.jpg
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the rust by your clutch pedal looks like it has been caused by a leaky master cylinder. Take of the cover plate above the cylinder (6 screws) and have a look - if it's leaking change it (or seal kit if you're mega tight), dump all the remaining fluid (bleed screw is by slave cylinder - on bell housing) then renew and bleed accordingly. Just did mine last week and it made a massive difference to the clutch.
 
As I am pretty bloody useless at mechanics I have found out recently is replacing the master cylinder a difficult job or should any smuck be able to do it???? Thank for that Ashoofack
 
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