After years with BOC for my gas I now use Hobbyweld, cheaper only 1 repayable deposit not paying tental every year and you can get them with a regulator already fitted, they say 90% deposit return when you hnd in your cylinder

so get on youtube and watch a few videos on how to weld then lern to set the machine up, a few hours practice should see you good, as all you need to do is be able to spot weld, lots of them the grind off the excess
 
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This is quite a good site with a forum...

Welding - The DIY Guide

MIG, Arc, and TIG welding tutorials with videos for beginner and intermediate welders. Also a welding and fabrication forum.
www.mig-welding.co.uk
 
Great words of advice, cheers. I tried some gassless the other week on a mates project and lets just say it wasnt pretty! Will definately get gas and hobbyweld looks like a great shout so will be checking them out
 
Disco-Skipper said:
Great words of advice, cheers. I tried some gassless the other week on a mates project and lets just say it wasnt pretty! Will definately get gas and hobbyweld looks like a great shout so will be checking them out
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With hobby weld do not get the biggest bottle with the built in reg as it is the most expensive, get the next size down with a separate regulator.

Buy a bigger machine than what you need, as you never know what the future holds.

I initially bought a 170 amp machine, it was okay but limited on how thick a material you could weld, so traded that in for a 250amp machine, much better and it will still happily weld car panels.

MB15 torch is ideal for car work as it is smaller than the MB25 torch, consumables for both are cheap enough.
 
Anaconda said:
Out of interest can you use a 13amp to 16amp fly lead and use the welder at home on a normal circuit?
Note: I no nothing about electrics.
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I do exactly that with my machine, though in the end I did add a blue commando socket close to the consumer unit, but not really needed as I only do the odd car bit at home.
Just need a commando socket, a new breaker to add to the consumer unit and some wire, not hard or expensive.
 
As most of my welding is on setting No 1, on my Parweld 180, I have it on a normal 13 amp plug, but, the fuze in the plug it came with only had a 5 amp fuze so check the fuze before you use it, I did have a problem as the gas valve did not work 100 the sent a new one the next day, I fitted it myself, and it's been fine since, and it takes the 15kg wire
 

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frostythor said:
As most of my welding is on setting No 1, on my Parweld 180, I have it on a normal 13 amp plug, but, the fuze in the plug it came with only had a 5 amp fuze so check the fuze before you use it, I did have a problem as the gas valve did not work 100 the sent a new one the next day, I fitted it myself, and it's been fine since, and it takes the 15kg wire
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If storing the machine in a shed, it is always worth covering the reel of wire in a nice soft blanket to keep it from getting damp.
I use a fluffy pillow case cover, nowt but best for my wire!
 
As an electrician, you can draw 16 amps from a 13 amp outlet, usually because a 2.5mm ring main is fused at 32A, at the distribution board. Bear in mind, the switches and the connections on a 13 amp socket outlet, are rated for 13amp....
 
Britcyclerider said:
I would repair that, even though lots of Discovery 2s are being scrapped for a lot less decay. Take a look at "Croker vs Rover" or "Church House Classics" (Range Rover Classic) YouTube channels if you want some motivation!
If you do go ahead, spend some time of drenching the inside of all box sections with Dinitrol. Remember, rust usually starts inside and works outwards, so an immaculate chassis exterior doesn't mean it's good inside!
Personally I would remove the body (not difficult on a Disco) and go right through it.
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Hi I have a DT5 2004 2.5 diesel. I’m hoping to do a full renovation. Before I start I had hoped to research availability of all the body parts. Window rails are badly rusted and I’ll need all 4 doors original replacements. Chassis is ok passed mot but I’d probably replace with galvanised. Front window screen leaks water so welding required to body work. I realise it will cost but I think as a rebuild alternative to a new vehicle I’d be much happier with my TD5.
All suggestions welcome. As an apprentice auto electrician and past electronic engineer Im confident on turning this into a decent motet again. Near retirement now so I’ll convert it to a camping vehicle as I rebuild. Thanks for taking the time to read this. 👍
 
Chrispus said:
Hi I have a DT5 2004 2.5 diesel. I’m hoping to do a full renovation. Before I start I had hoped to research availability of all the body parts. Window rails are badly rusted and I’ll need all 4 doors original replacements. Chassis is ok passed mot but I’d probably replace with galvanised. Front window screen leaks water so welding required to body work. I realise it will cost but I think as a rebuild alternative to a new vehicle I’d be much happier with my TD5.
All suggestions welcome. As an apprentice auto electrician and past electronic engineer Im confident on turning this into a decent motet again. Near retirement now so I’ll convert it to a camping vehicle as I rebuild. Thanks for taking the time to read this. 👍
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Shame you can't get a Jap import Crossroad as they reputedly have excellent bodies. Or get a scrap one from a dry source.
 
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