ldrego · May 17, 2015

So the rust proofing has finally started. I've been thinking about this a lot and thought I would share.
Firstly, it is a hard job which I believe will never be perfect, you just need to do your best and hopefully this will reduce the level of rot.
I have started on one section at a time, popped the car on ramps and working on the rear section first up to the edge of the petrol tank. I have wire brushed as much rust away as possible taking the time to tap the rust every soften to loosen the harder stuff. Around the drain points I have made sure that the exit points are smooth as possible to avoid water trapping there. The underside I am painting first with vactan using a brush. I tried a spray but it was a bit gloomy. Paints on like thin yogurt and looks similar. Just waiting for it to dry so that I can review the situation for the next stage.

ldrego · May 17, 2015

Just reading some more on this vactan stuff and it needs to be applied very very thin. It also acts as a primer. It says dries in 2 hours or so but I think I will leave it several days to cure completely. All exciting stuff.

cambridgecockney · May 17, 2015

They rust from the inside out.you will need to spray inside and then use cavity wax.did mine last year will do again later this year.
http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/cambridgecockney/slideshow/shiney chassis

ldrego · May 17, 2015

cambridgecockney said:
They rust from the inside out.you will need to spray inside and then use cavity wax.did mine last year will do again later this year.
Shiney Chassis Slideshow by cambridgecockney | Photobucket

Thanks for those images and the advice. What did you spray inside the cavities. I have waxoyl with the extension tubes but figure it may be better to run something else down there instead. Looking at other options. Possibly using the vactan in a finer spray format just not worked out a solution as yet though I figure vactan may not be it.
Any thoughts on using fresh oil instead of old oil?

davidsmith1307 · May 17, 2015

cambridgecockney said:
They rust from the inside out.you will need to spray inside and then use cavity wax.did mine last year will do again later this year.
Shiney Chassis Slideshow by cambridgecockney | Photobucket

Chassis porn. A new genre.

bobupndown · May 17, 2015

I use a compressor, schutz gun and loads of waxoil including extension lance for inside the chassis. Messy but worth it, MOT tester comments on how good it is underneath compared to others they test.
My ancient 2nd hand compressor is dying though so gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new one.

ldrego · May 17, 2015

bobupndown said:
I use a compressor, schutz gun and loads of waxoil including extension lance for inside the chassis. Messy but worth it, MOT tester comments on how good it is underneath compared to others they test.
My ancient 2nd hand compressor is dying though so gonna have to bite the bullet and buy a new one.

I would love a compressor and the ability to make loads of mess but my life would be made hell. The paint brush application is not working well so I am going to us a compressed air bottle with lance sprayer. I think that would be a better solution.

I am finding that doing this myself is full of compromises but i Wonder if something is always better than nothing. Any thoughts?

cambridgecockney · May 17, 2015

I tried vactan but gave up.i used omnicote bought from ebay £22ish.i sprayed the inside with dinitrol cavity wax aerosol cans ,come with 2 foot tube.sprayed 2 in each side left a day then did the same until I had used 10 cans.

ldrego · May 17, 2015

cambridgecockney said:
I tried vactan but gave up.i used omnicote bought from ebay £22ish.i sprayed the inside with dinitrol cavity wax aerosol cans ,come with 2 foot tube.sprayed 2 in each side left a day then did the same until I had used 10 cans.

Awesome . Thanks for that info. I will add that into my list. The Vactan is working just painting it on is not the way to go. I am just going to try another technique.

ldrego · May 17, 2015

So I am up to the front wheels of the chassis. Loads of surface rust coming off but it is a hell of a job trying to get into all the bits. I am 100% sure that I am not managing to remove all the rust flakes but it is a nasty job. Just rinsed out the car with water to remove all the loosened rust and waiting for it to partially dry. I am hoping the pressurised cylinder with wand will make it easier. I am diluting the vactan down to make it more usable in the sprater, something you can do apparently.
One thing to note is that a pair of safety goggles is essential but get one that has rubber around the lens so it fits flush up against the face.
My thoughts of a beautiful shiny looking chassis are fast disappearing and I am hoping just for a reduced amount of decay with it not looking too ugly.

ldrego · May 17, 2015

I note that the front half of the car is already coated with oil so i don't feel I have to rush to get that section done quickly. May do that when I have some more time.

ldrego · May 17, 2015

So the pressurised sprayer worked with the vactan diluted 2-1. Clocked up every so often but it did give a good coverage. Messy as hell though however the liquid rinses off the block paving quite easily. I will need a further bottle to finish of the car.
The rust has ben made stable though I feel it could do with a paint just to remove any rough areas. I feel the paint is essential and now that I have stabalised the rust, the pain t should be much easier to apply. I am thinking i am going to have the same difficulty I had with the vacation if I try to paint it on.

ldrego · May 17, 2015

cambridgecockney said:
I tried vactan but gave up.i used omnicote bought from ebay £22ish.i sprayed the inside with dinitrol cavity wax aerosol cans ,come with 2 foot tube.sprayed 2 in each side left a day then did the same until I had used 10 cans.

is 10 cans not quite a lot? Are you trying to get a thin layer or quite thick layer?

cambridgecockney · May 18, 2015

I used 6 up the chassis the rest in the sills,cavities and difficult to reach areas.i will re coat outside of chassis this year then paint with chassis gloss.then chuck a couple more tins up the inside.i used a fair amount inside the chassis as I don't know what amount of dirt remains inside.

ldrego · May 18, 2015

cambridgecockney said:
I used 6 up the chassis the rest in the sills,cavities and difficult to reach areas.i will re coat outside of chassis this year then paint with chassis gloss.then chuck a couple more tins up the inside.i used a fair amount inside the chassis as I don't know what amount of dirt remains inside.

I am just doing the chassis cavities. Will I still need that much?

cambridgecockney · May 18, 2015

2 a side will be ample I get carried away.

ldrego · May 19, 2015

So let me get this right. For the internal box sections of the chassis you used dinitrol just straight through or did you spray it again with chassis gloss.
My thoughts are to blast out the inside of the sections with water first, leave to dry for a few days and either spray with dinitrol or vacation solution if I can work out how to deliver it internally. I am then thinking some sort of spray such as waxoyl inside to give it that additional protection. Anyone got any thoughts?
I notice that someone has kindly posted a photo of their chassis body off and I thought, if I can get a coating to all the areas that are exposed to water on a regular basis then the protection should be good enough. Any thoughts on this too?

meego · May 19, 2015

ldrego said:
So let me get this right. For the internal box sections of the chassis you used dinitrol just straight through or did you spray it again with chassis gloss.
My thoughts are to blast out the inside of the sections with water first, leave to dry for a few days and either spray with dinitrol or vacation solution if I can work out how to deliver it internally. I am then thinking some sort of spray such as waxoyl inside to give it that additional protection. Anyone got any thoughts?
I notice that someone has kindly posted a photo of their chassis body off and I thought, if I can get a coating to all the areas that are exposed to water on a regular basis then the protection should be good enough. Any thoughts on this too?

My concern with your water idea is getting it "totally" dry before you waxoil or whatever you use. If you don't get it dry, you could be sealing moisture in and leaving it to do its dirty work. Washing everything out is fine if you give it a week or so to dry out in good warm dry weather.

Turboman · May 19, 2015

meego said:
My concern with your water idea is getting it "totally" dry before you waxoil or whatever you use. If you don't get it dry, you could be sealing moisture in and leaving it to do its dirty work. Washing everything out is fine if you give it a week or so to dry out in good warm dry weather.

I agree, getting it dried out after washing is really important.

Might even be good to supplement natural drying with fan heaters or suchlike if drying conditions weren't perfect.

cambridgecockney · May 19, 2015

ldrego said:
So let me get this right. For the internal box sections of the chassis you used dinitrol just straight through or did you spray it again with chassis gloss.
My thoughts are to blast out the inside of the sections with water first, leave to dry for a few days and either spray with dinitrol or vacation solution if I can work out how to deliver it internally. I am then thinking some sort of spray such as waxoyl inside to give it that additional protection. Anyone got any thoughts?
I notice that someone has kindly posted a photo of their chassis body off and I thought, if I can get a coating to all the areas that are exposed to water on a regular basis then the protection should be good enough. Any thoughts on this too?

I just sprayed dinitrol cavity wax inside the chassis,left to set and sprayed in more cavity wax.i used omnicote on the chassis outer.this dries black as a primer as in the pics of my chassis I posted earlier.will re do this year and apply a finish coat of gloss black chassis paint.

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