I would unplug the abs unit and try the brakes again. If there is no sticking, you onto a winner!
If there is still sticking. Remove each caliper (but not from the car or braking system)
and inspect and grease the guides. Failing that squeeze each piston with a clamp and look for resistance.
If the whole system still has resistance then go back to the distribution block!
If there is still sticking. Remove each caliper (but not from the car or braking system)
and inspect and grease the guides. Failing that squeeze each piston with a clamp and look for resistance.
If the whole system still has resistance then go back to the distribution block!
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Not had the exact same problem but have experienced one caliper sticking. I resolved it with a combination of bleeding the system - I know it is a PITA but it is the only way, also clean the calipers and push the pistons back and then CAREFULLY (with an assistant) operate the brakes to push the pistons out again to make sure they are free.
When you operate the brakes to push the pistons out, place a slim piece of timber or something between the pistons and the disc, you just need something in there that is thinner than your pads so the piston moves through a bigger range than previously. Check the piston seals while you're at it, the outer dust seals sometimes fall to bits.
HTH
When you operate the brakes to push the pistons out, place a slim piece of timber or something between the pistons and the disc, you just need something in there that is thinner than your pads so the piston moves through a bigger range than previously. Check the piston seals while you're at it, the outer dust seals sometimes fall to bits.
HTH
+1 ^^
Which connected do I need to unplug the ABS unit? I unplugged the one on the top of the modulator next to the reservoir and it was no different.
I think my first action will be to do the bleeding again. We had a lot of issues so it might not have been done in the correct order.
A thorough bleed would rule out expanding warm air. If it's any thing like the 38' it has to be done to the T'!
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
The connector on the top of reservoir is the level sensor.
Look for a round ball thing with connectors going to it similar to this -
Green is the level sensor for dash.
There’s a relay in the fusebox for it also
Look for a round ball thing with connectors going to it similar to this -
Green is the level sensor for dash.
There’s a relay in the fusebox for it also
Haven’t done anything to it yet. Some of the brake pipes need replacing so will be replacing them before doing the bleeding again. I’ll definitely update this thread when I’ve found the time to do it.@T-C ,how did you get on?
Good luck with the repair and keep us in the loop.
Sounds like the pressure is leaking Into the brake system after it has pressurised.
Anybody got a diagram maybe?
Anybody got a diagram maybe?
Brakes are now working!
For the benefit of those reading this in the future, I found someone else with the same problem on another forum. They had put the clevis pin on the brake pedal in the wrong hole. I suddenly remembered when I put mine back together, the brake lights were stuck on, so I assumed I’d got the wrong hole and changed it. Therefore my brakes were always slightly applied. With the pin in the correct hole the brakes are operating fine. Just need to adjust the brake light switch now.
For the benefit of those reading this in the future, I found someone else with the same problem on another forum. They had put the clevis pin on the brake pedal in the wrong hole. I suddenly remembered when I put mine back together, the brake lights were stuck on, so I assumed I’d got the wrong hole and changed it. Therefore my brakes were always slightly applied. With the pin in the correct hole the brakes are operating fine. Just need to adjust the brake light switch now.
