yeah i sent a PM, though i really need a car asap so will have to start using my other car again anyway.
the plus side to all this is that the 106 will cost about a quarter of what it costs to run the range rover, so with all that spare money i can start doing all the little things that need doing to the range while its up on bricks (not literally of course. well, i dont think so anyway..)
the plus side to all this is that the 106 will cost about a quarter of what it costs to run the range rover, so with all that spare money i can start doing all the little things that need doing to the range while its up on bricks (not literally of course. well, i dont think so anyway..)
well it turns out my reliable little french mobile isnt all that reliable.
so now im left with my range rover with dodgy brakes, but im still no closer to being able to sort the braking issues.
is there any way to bypass or remove the ABS system so its not making the dash light stay on constantly, so that the pressure sensor on the pump is able to do its job and warn me of a pressure loss in the brake system?
so now im left with my range rover with dodgy brakes, but im still no closer to being able to sort the braking issues.
is there any way to bypass or remove the ABS system so its not making the dash light stay on constantly, so that the pressure sensor on the pump is able to do its job and warn me of a pressure loss in the brake system?
fett
Well-Known Member
if it works and stops the vehical then you could use it , just assume the abs doesnt work and take much more care especially in the snow.
obviously dont drive it if the brakes dont work!
Like I siad I know a guy who can come to you and sort it no probs. he is busy but will still travel in the snow in his classic if ur in the **** and he doenst charge too much for the traveling. PM me if you want his number.
obviously dont drive it if the brakes dont work!
Like I siad I know a guy who can come to you and sort it no probs. he is busy but will still travel in the snow in his classic if ur in the **** and he doenst charge too much for the traveling. PM me if you want his number.
classic kev
Well-Known Member
thats the problem though, because the warning light is on all the time i wont know if the pump loses pressure
quote]
Have you checked that you have got enough brake fluid in the reservoir?
Have you checked the front and rear off side pads for wear?
Have you checked the earth connections? (Including the one on the front offside brake calliper).
Is the hand brake switch free and not stuck or anything like that?
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classic kev
Well-Known Member
BTW, check and clean the earth wires by the ECU. It might be worthwhile just taking out all the fuses and make sure all the connections are clean and tight, then do the same with the relays and relay bases. Moisture ingress/condensation could cause corroded connector terminals. You might also try testing all the relays to make sure they are switching but you should normally hear three clicks when ignition turned on - these will be EFI main power relay, Fuel pump relay and the ABS relay, your ABS pump will almost certainly run for a short time (unless you've been out and the system is still up to pressure).
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Blink codes point you in the direction to look.
I have found clean earth connections are essential for the ABS and the EFI systems. I set out in my previous posts where ABS earth can be found by the passenger seat, two black wires if I remember rightly, you can do earth continuity tests on relay bases, pump etc. Brake pad wear sensors are on front and rear off side callipers. Look for a small wire attached to the calliper - that is the earth; the wires corrode and you might even find they are not connected.
The warning lights you should see at start up are orange (pad wear) red (brake fluid, system pressure, handbrake) and also the ABS light which should go out once you get above 5mph or whatever it is. If there is an earth problem, you may not get the orange light or the handbrake light. I have seen no orange light and the red light on but that goes out as soon as the system is up to pressure and hand brake released.
If the red light stays on all the time, then suspect sticky hand brake switch, low pressure in ABS or low brake fluid level.
Blink codes would tell you if there is a problem with a wheel sensor, or an electrical problem in the ABS system such a a duff relay, faulty pressure swich, stuck valves and the like.
So to re-cap- basic checks first - Brake fluid level. Fuses. Ensure all earths are clean and tight. Next check pad wear. Then check/clean ABS relays. Then get blink code(s) remember the ECU can store a number of codes so this could take time! Check your wheel bearings too - they can cause air gap problems and a funny feel to the brake pedal resulting in an intermittent ABS warning light.
If all that checks out then you need to start digging deeper. If you do a search there is quite a lot of info about the ABS system. Some info found in the Discovery section might help as some is relevent but be aware the disco uses a slightly different system. P38 is similar to RRC with some modifications.
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classic kev
Well-Known Member
No!
Then do the checks I've suggested. If you have fluid and you think you've got pads then it sounds like you have a pressure problem - so pump, accumulator, pressure switch have to be candidates.
A red warning light next to the hand brake one? Have you got a manual? If not GET ONE, you will need it or down load RAVE.
