Hi mate

iam goin through the exact same as yourself i ve changed everything like you head head gasket thermo water pump radiator everything my conclusion is crack in the block i even tried the heavy duty block sealant

it takes the bastard **** i already sourced an engine iam fed up of it

might drive it in to a wall

hahaha
 
but i cant work out even if the block was cracked then the bottom of the rad would get war surely!!. The bubbling coming out of the expansion tank doesn't smell of fumes and a compression test all seemed fine.

I'm not going to lie to you i have seriously thought about the wall thing though!
 
my rad only gets hot at the top and warm at the bottom its untouchable at the top mine same no probs with anything else cold heat coming out i might try that heater matrix pipe thing and see what happens is urs a petrol or deisel mine is a 2.5 dse on a 1996
 
2 different engines exact the same problem range rovers for you iam getting an engine cheap thats y i ant be bothered spending any more on it
 
let me know if you find a 4.0 cheap then lol, i'm starting to think its the rad, i refuse to spend any more money on it though so tomorrow morning the car is going to parked in the shed at my work where it will stay forever, I'm going to look at a nice 1.1 saxo.....and no i'm not joking, the range rover is the first car i've ever worked on that has beaten me, i really just can't fix it

Now to the Saxo owners club......
 
I think you may well find the radiator is blocked. where the water is getting through it will feel hot. where it is blocked it will feel cold. this was the problem with mine. i had flushed it out but still overheated. changed the rad and all was well.
 
the rads do block easily, i was reading an article about different types of coolant fluid, antifreeze, and i was astounded to read that if the two combine it can cause a sludge that blocks the rad, probably combining cheap and expensive????

can't find the article but something simple can cause a whole lot of ****e!!

now i know on central heating systems you can get a sludge treatment, it dissolves the crap and you can then flush it out, most CH systems are copper ans steel so would this work with cars?? its about £10 from b in q, worth a try as rads are prolly £150+
 
I think you need to apply Ochams Razor here. Which roughly translated means once you have discounted all obvious things, whatever is left, the answer is more than likely to be the simplest thing - Radiator. The rads on these babies are to small to start with, and after a few years and perhaps a bit of neglect they do clog up.
 
I'm trying to find a garage that will come to my house and carry out a sniffer test on expansion tank as obviously if there are gases in coolant then the block is screwed. Like i said before though even if the block was cracked the bottom of the rad would still get warm.

These problems started when i changed the coolant and i used the best stuff i could get so maybe when i put it in its mixed with the cheap stuff and could have blocked rad somewhere but why is it flushing fine??
 
water like electricity will take the path of least resistance, therefore flowing over any obstacle as opposed to through it!!

i still reckon air locks, mine still has them in heater core as there is very little heat getting in cab!
 
Hackett said:
I'm trying to find a garage that will come to my house and carry out a sniffer test on expansion tank as obviously if there are gases in coolant then the block is screwed. Like i said before though even if the block was cracked the bottom of the rad would still get warm.

These problems started when i changed the coolant and i used the best stuff i could get so maybe when i put it in its mixed with the cheap stuff and could have blocked rad somewhere but why is it flushing fine??
Click to expand...

I had a 3.9 classic that had a cracked block & the rad would get warm all over.
 
javars said:
I had a 3.9 classic that had a cracked block & the rad would get warm all over.
Click to expand...

Yeah thats what i thought even if the block was cracked it would still heat all of the RAD well i'm thinking about breaking it to be honest unless someone offers me £1000 they can have it.

Watch ebay it may be on there later
 
dont let it beat ya! does sound like an air lock that is stopping hot water to the heater matrix, rad problem really can only be due to a blockage/ silting up of the bottom which could well of been like it for ages or may be due to something floating in the coolant ie small pieces of the removed head gaskets?? don't be tempted to use a central heating system cleaner there are proper rad cleaning/flushing fluids available which may or may not help. if it were me i would source another rad first, put a bleed t piece in highest part of pipework and try refilling.
 
Well me and my neighbour just been out for an hour or so and he is adament its an airlock. I think there may be a blockage somewhere in the cooling system.

When running the radiator is pushing the water along the blled pipe to the expansion tank but instead of the water being replaced at the bottom of the rad it seems to just have air in it. Agian i let it warm right up then said to him watch this....low and behold when i undid the drain at the bottom of the rad the water there was ice cold. also the bottom pipe to the thermostat is cold even though i have changed the thermostat and the top pipe of the rad is getting hot.

I still have no hot air coming through the vents......arrrrrrrrrrrggggggghhhhhh
 
have you tried flushing the coolant system with a hose? not just the rad but bodge a way of holding the hosepipe onto the top rad hose, disconnect bottom hose, turn on the tap and hold on tight:D also while doing it move heater adjuster from cold to hot just in case it seized/blocked on the heater valve. failing that i really do reckon theres summat up with your rad :confused:
 
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