Mine was pretty much the same, I managed to shear off most of them by using 1/2" socketry and tighten the buggers till they snap. The ones at the back of the tub, under the door drill a hole through the head, drilling it bigger till they drop off.:D Worked for me....Have fun..:D:D
 
I've got those ones off, using an angle grinder! The main ones I'm having problems with are in the rear wheel arches, 2 either side. 1 is stripped and the others won't budge!
 
willbowles said:
I've got those ones off, using an angle grinder! The main ones I'm having problems with are in the rear wheel arches, 2 either side. 1 is stripped and the others won't budge!
Click to expand...

I had to go look.......the two small ones for the stays to the bodywork????
 
I'll have to check this evening. I thought there are 2 in each of the rear arches that attach the tub to the chassis? I could be wrong!
 
willbowles said:
I'll have to check this evening. I thought there are 2 in each of the rear arches that attach the tub to the chassis? I could be wrong!
Click to expand...

:confused: Maybe on yours, I had a look in my 109, I've bolts at the front, the back and from the outriggers to the body. The only ones in the rear arches are the two small ones where the stays keep the bodywork rigid. Maybe you have some "optional extras" !!:D
 
six sided sockets are your best friend with rusty nuts and bolts, make sure they fit properly, plenty of plusgas/wd40 and take your time undoing them or tighten till they snap

also an airdrill is useful for small spaces to drill the heads off bolts so they fall out

looking at how badly rotten that steering damper mount is i suspect you'll be needing to repair both dumb irons and under each bumpstop at least, possibly the rear of the chassis will need repairs around the shackle mounts and where the rails meet the rear crossmember, tub and fuel tank outriggers will need a good poke with a screwdriver/hammer i suspect

here's a link to my 88" repair work
Zebedee pictures by NiteMare_08 - Photobucket

and another to my 109 repairs
My 1965 109 pictures by NiteMare_08 - Photobucket

all just photobucket pictures of two of the landrovers i own and have repaired, hopefully they'll give you some idea of where to look for rot and how to repair it, i'm still learning myself
 
Hi all,

Thought I'd update my progress with the Series 3. With the help of a couple of friends yesteday we finally got it stripped to the chassis. The bulkhead and front fenders are the next challenge. The chassis has 3 places that need welding which is pretty good going I thought. The bulkhead is pretty rotten though so I don't know whether a new bulkhead would be the best bet or try and repair this one. I'll post some pictures later/tomorrow.

Cheers

Will
 
Good one :) Have you took the towball of the back (if fiited of course), thats where I found quite a bit of rot in my crossmember.
 
samc88 said:
Good one :) Have you took the towball of the back (if fiited of course), thats where I found quite a bit of rot in my crossmember.
Click to expand...

I haven't yet, I shall do now you've said that though!

Here are the pictures for everyone and a couple more questions!





Do I need to do anything to the gearbox apart from clean it?


A couple of bits to sort on the chassis.






Does the bulkhead look salvageable or do I need a replacement?






Anything to worry about here?
 
Your one should be fine, mine had a big drop plate fitted covering the back of the crossmember which trapped water. It was the space above where your towball is (between those 4 holes) that had rotted. I think you could possibly salvage the bulkhead, you can get new footwells. If you look at johnny curt's rebuild thread he shows how he did his. The chassis doesn't look overly bad though :)
 
I have to say, based on what people have said about your chassis/ bulk head I feel quite relieved as I was a bit worried that mine would be shot, but I think they are in better nick than yours.

I'm a little bit further ahead in the strip down than you are (i've got the wings, front panel, bumper, axles, springs off). Must get the build thread I keep promising up....

Good luck with yours! :)
 
I'll have a look at the other thread, it's the bulkhead that's worrying me a little!

Do get a thread up Rubins, would be good to see another similar to mine and how you took the front apart. I'm stopping here at the moment on the strip down and I'm going to clean, repair and paint the chassis up to the front outriggers nearest the bulkhead.

Cleaning starts tomorrow afternoon hopefully!
 
Thanks for the links, I will also need new footwells :) are these footwells good quality and not likely to rot out too soon? My chassis had a replacement rear x member which is fooked again already! :what:

The front wings were a bit of a chore. There are a few brackets for mudflaps as well as all the wiring for the headlights. All my light screws are rusted to buggery so had to cut the wires to remove the wings. Going for a new harness so wasn't too hard a decision. The front panel came off with the rad attached but you got to take the cowling off, I think.

Looks like your taking a different approach to me, doing the front then the back. I'm going for a galv chassis so have to strip completely then start building up again. I'll keep a close eye on your thread as I will blatantly forget how it goes back together... :eek:
 
Rubins4 said:
Thanks for the links, I will also need new footwells :) are these footwells good quality and not likely to rot out too soon? My chassis had a replacement rear x member which is fooked again already! :what:

The front wings were a bit of a chore. There are a few brackets for mudflaps as well as all the wiring for the headlights. All my light screws are rusted to buggery so had to cut the wires to remove the wings. Going for a new harness so wasn't too hard a decision. The front panel came off with the rad attached but you got to take the cowling off, I think.

Looks like your taking a different approach to me, doing the front then the back. I'm going for a galv chassis so have to strip completely then start building up again. I'll keep a close eye on your thread as I will blatantly forget how it goes back together... :eek:
Click to expand...

Yes the footwells are good, they're what I've replaced mine with :) The only difference between them and the old ones is that they lack those pressed rib things but they should be strong enough.

I'll have to try and remember how it goes back together myself first :rolleyes: :D
 
Thanks for the links, I shall be requiring those! I'll put a footwell plate in there too for more durability.

I'll see if I can find the workshop manual I downloaded once. That'll help us all with putting them back together. I need to replace pretty much all the nuts and bolts I have taken out as they are all rusted and no good.
 
the very best footwells i've seen and used are supplied by lescr, folded and pressed to the original shapes complete with the pedal box stiffener and channels pressed in, 20% thicker material than original pressings

he's got an ebay shop where he sells his as he's a small independent manufacturer

Land rover series 2 2a & 3 Right hand footwell | eBay

i've nothing to gain from this recommendation, just i've been a very happy customer
 
Rubins4 said:
Hi. Just looking to order some footwells and looking at your link... they are for a fender...

It seems they do footwells for series 2/3 too. Are the ones you linked to the right ones?? :suspicious:
Click to expand...

Hmmm, I'm sure I linked the series ones before, post edited with series ones in the links now
 
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