tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Nor mineMine is nothing like that
I think it is because mine is the HK version?
Anyway, the replacement speaker surrounds arrived this morning.
So putting it all back together is a job for next week.
Car is all in bits back there because of the water leak. I want to confirm that I have resolved that before I put the sub-woofer back in.
Anyway, the replacement speaker surrounds arrived this morning.
So putting it all back together is a job for next week.
Car is all in bits back there because of the water leak. I want to confirm that I have resolved that before I put the sub-woofer back in.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Kerect.
Well, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker.
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do.
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do.
you *probably* wont notice anythingWell, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker.
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do.
Can't you get a bit of speaker wire to extend out to the speakers to test them before fittingWell, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker.
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do.
I guess so, they are normally bolted onto the Subwoofer AMP and it is all inside the enclosure. I guess a small hole and some external "reconfigurable jumper" connections wouldn't hurt. Good call mate, thanks!
I have 2 long wires with crocodile clips on each end for such occasionsI guess so, they are normally bolted onto the Subwoofer AMP and it is all inside the enclosure. I guess a small hole and some external "reconfigurable jumper" connections wouldn't hurt. Good call mate, thanks!
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Thought they were for if you were on a promise so just needed to find a young lad for a jump start.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Did you work out the colours for the speakers Dan?Well, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker.
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do.
Not yet Alan, I realised my schoolboy error only yesterday (Sister here all weekend) and I am having "Beers in the City" today so I won't get near it until tomorrow at the earliest.
My plan is that as the wires are in two distinct pairs in the loom (Blue & a White) and (Red & a Black) I am going to assume the neutral colours (White and Black) are one polarity and the Blue and the Red are the other polarity for my first try.
Great for the speakers, thanks. Doesn't tell me the corresponding wires and spade terminals from the amp though?
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
Won't a multimeter show the power wires?
Don't know, but that is a very good call, and I shall give it a try, thank you!
