OK, I got the bastid thing out!
And YES you have to split the box and YES the back of the speakers is bolted to the power-amp.
20211111_134145.jpg
 
Mine wasn’t like that either I’m not sure but I think the the amps either behind the box that you have taken off or on the end of it that setup is new to me
 
I think it is because mine is the HK version?
Anyway, the replacement speaker surrounds arrived this morning. :)
So putting it all back together is a job for next week.
Car is all in bits back there because of the water leak. I want to confirm that I have resolved that before I put the sub-woofer back in. :rolleyes:
 
Well, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker. :(
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling :(
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do. ;)
 
Well, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker. :(
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling :(
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do. ;)
you *probably* wont notice anything :D
 
Use a PP3 battery, and tap the connection across each speaker (Do not keep it attached). When both speakers push the same way, then you have found which is +ve & -ve.
 
Well, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker. :(
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling :(
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do. ;)
Can't you get a bit of speaker wire to extend out to the speakers to test them before fitting
 
Can't you get a bit of speaker wire to extend out to the speakers to test them before fitting
I guess so, they are normally bolted onto the Subwoofer AMP and it is all inside the enclosure. I guess a small hole and some external "reconfigurable jumper" connections wouldn't hurt. Good call mate, thanks! :D:D:D
 
I guess so, they are normally bolted onto the Subwoofer AMP and it is all inside the enclosure. I guess a small hole and some external "reconfigurable jumper" connections wouldn't hurt. Good call mate, thanks! :D:D:D
I have 2 long wires with crocodile clips on each end for such occasions
 
Well, I have failed miserably already. As it was all sealed up and in my attempts to remove a speaker from outside the box I managed to pull its spade connection wires off I now have no picture of the polarity of the connection of either speaker. :(
As its an analogue signal it will be polarity sensitive (the old speaker-cones going in & out in unison). As I have no record of how it was there is a 50:50 chance of getting one pushing while the other is pulling :(
No wiring diagram( with colour codes) exists so this could be problematic. I just hope there is enough slack on the input wiring to allow me to plumb it in to get the radio or cassette driving it without fully rebuilding the box.
At least then I can try a polarity reversal and play "Better/Worse" like the opticians do. ;)
Did you work out the colours for the speakers Dan?
 
Did you work out the colours for the speakers Dan?
Not yet Alan, I realised my schoolboy error only yesterday (Sister here all weekend) and I am having "Beers in the City" today so I won't get near it until tomorrow at the earliest.
My plan is that as the wires are in two distinct pairs in the loom (Blue & a White) and (Red & a Black) I am going to assume the neutral colours (White and Black) are one polarity and the Blue and the Red are the other polarity for my first try.
Use a PP3 battery, and tap the connection across each speaker (Do not keep it attached). When both speakers push the same way, then you have found which is +ve & -ve.
Great for the speakers, thanks. Doesn't tell me the corresponding wires and spade terminals from the amp though?
 
Not yet Alan, I realised my schoolboy error only yesterday (Sister here all weekend) and I am having "Beers in the City" today so I won't get near it until tomorrow at the earliest.
My plan is that as the wires are in two distinct pairs in the loom (Blue & a White) and (Red & a Black) I am going to assume the neutral colours (White and Black) are one polarity and the Blue and the Red are the other polarity for my first try.

Great for the speakers, thanks. Doesn't tell me the corresponding wires and spade terminals from the amp though?
Won't a multimeter show the power wires?
 

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