sierrafery said:

So i'm wondering what kind of specialist are you to decide which is "decent" other than genuine LR? ...as based on the bolded final part of your statment you should think twice why????.... IMO it's not in your favour to give advices for others what to do after two HG failures unless you can explain exactly why did they happen other than going cheap on replacement parts or poor maintainance,.. my engine is 10P from 2000 at aroud 200K miles and i've never had a HG failure but i respect my vehicle and i dont want to save money on it cos it's part of my familly if you see what i mean...

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You might know your stuff SF but there's no need to be a condescending smart arse. I'm not claiming to be a "specialist", I'm sharing my own experiences to try to help others. Or do you have to be an 'expert' to post here?... Both my D2's had almost full dealer service history when I bought them, both had original LR hoses and both were checked regularly for coolant, oil etc by myself. Both HGF's were caused by head shifting on block due to the plastic dowels - a common issue with 10p engines, and as I'm sure you well know, the reason they changed to metal dowels in the 15p engine, both mine over the 150k mark. So neither caused by lack of maintenance or cheap hoses.
My first one, after the HG was repaired had a "cheap aftermarket" top hose fitted by the land rover specialist. In the two years that I owned it afterwards, it never lost a drop of coolant. My current one is with a land rover specialist right now. Again, caused by head shift and sheer bad luck. NOT cheap hoses or poor maintenance.
So you maintain yours meticulously- well done
Your HG is still intact after 200k? Lucky bloke.

Bobdog said:

no need to be a condescending smart arse

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Bobdog said:

Both HGF's were caused by head shifting on block due to the plastic dowels - a common issue with 10p engines,

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so you think

OK m8 i'll stick to my "smart arse" attitude within my ignorance and with my 10P engine which was fitted with a new AMC head at a time cos i ruined mine making it crack due to excessive EGTs (while the HG was still intact) happened from my own stupidity cos i made experiments with chips remapped by me as i thought it's OK before i studied deeply the system so i was kind'a like you: knew too little and thought i know much based on opinnions from various forums ... though with the new head i used also plastic dowels cos i followed the builder's recommendation as mine is within the VIN range from the bulletin attached... around 50k miles since then with plastic dowels and no probs with the HG, maybe you better believe what the engine's builder is recommending rather than some other "smart arses" who think they know better cos steel dowels were introduced only for late 15P engines... to each his own m8, IMO the dowels have effect just untill the head is prefectly torqued on after that they can even melt or dissapear cos no need for them as the HG is fixed by the stretch bolts.. provided the job is done by the book not a bodge made by some drunk mechanic who doesnt respect the torque procedure and sequence which is specific for the Td5 not for tractors or other engines


believe me even though i seem agressive i'm just full of passion when it comnes to Td5s that's why i react like that...and if that means "condescending smart arse" for you then that's it... if you can confirm that you have read all the 2345 pages of RAVE at least twice like i did then we can have a friendly polemic..................... i dont think so

Ha

sierrafery said:

so you think

OK m8 i'll stick to my "smart arse" attitude within my ignorance and with my 10P engine which was fitted with a new AMC head at a time cos i ruined mine making it crack due to excessive EGTs (while the HG was still intact) happened from my own stupidity cos i made experiments with chips remapped by me as i thought it's OK before i studied deeply the system so i was kind'a like you: knew too little and thought i know much based on opinnions from various forums ... though with the new head i used also plastic dowels cos i followed the builder's recommendation as mine is within the VIN range from the bulletin attached... around 50k miles since then with plastic dowels and no probs with the HG, maybe you better believe what the engine's builder is recommending rather than some other "smart arses" who think they know better cos steel dowels were introduced only for late 15P engines... to each his own m8, and believe me even though i seem agressive i'm just full of passion when it comnes to Td5s that's why i react like that...and if that means "condescending smart arse" for you then that's it... if you can confirm that you have read all the 2345 pages of RAVE at least twice like i did then we can have a friendly polemic..................... i dont think so

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Mate, I have no doubt that you have vastly more knowledge of the Td5 engine than myself. That doesn't mean I know nothing or that it gives you the right to talk down to people, just because you've read the instruction manual to the Large Hadron Collider... I'm not on about chipping engines and raising egt's, I'm simply sharing my experiences of my own, standard, properly maintained engines which happen to have succumbed to a known design issue, - as advised by not only members of this forum but by at least 2 experienced land rover specialists I have dealt with in the past. But hey, as I know nothing, I'll stick to asking questions rather than attempt to help anyone. I'll leave that to you since you know everything.

Sorry if you feel i'm talking down to you just by making my point which is divergent... So should i presume that the attached LR technical bulletin means nothing to you or for your experienced lr specialist friends? ...

Bobdog said:

I'm simply sharing my experiences of my own, standard, properly maintained engines

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i also shared my own experience with my 10P fitted with plastic dowels and without any HG failure in 200K miles so maybe my kind of maintainance is more proper? i added something to my previous post about the purpose of dowels while you replied : "IMO the dowels have effect just untill the head is prefectly torqued on after that they can even melt or dissapear cos no need for them as the HG is fixed by the stretch bolts.. provided the job is done by the book not a bodge made by some drunk mechanic who doesnt respect the torque procedure and sequence which is specific for the Td5 not for tractors or other engines" ... please ask the experienced LR specialists if that's correct or not

sierrafery said:

Sorry if you feel i'm talking down to you just by making my point which is divergent... So should i presume that the attached LR technical bulletin means nothing to you or for your experienced lr specialist friends? ...

i also shared my own experience with my 10P fitted with plastic dowels and without any HG failure in 200K miles so maybe my kind of maintainance is more proper? i added something to my previous post about the purpose of dowels while you replied : "IMO the dowels have effect just untill the head is prefectly torqued on after that they can even melt or dissapear cos no need for them as the HG is fixed by the stretch bolts.. provided the job is done by the book not a bodge made by some drunk mechanic who doesnt respect the torque procedure and sequence which is specific for the Td5 not for tractors or other engines" ... please ask the experienced LR specialists if that's correct or not

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Erm... you're obviously mistaking me for someone else - That's not my quote you've posted there...

As preventative maintenance replacing my hoses with standard rubber/OEM is on my to do list.. still on the originals after 180k miles mind you and they appear ok but I think they have done their bit a d due a peaceful retirement. That said, I will proce up genuine LR items too.

The hoses on my Triumph TR2 are all working fine and are at least 30 years old ('cos that's when I bought it and I have never changed them), and some may even be original. I get that this is basically a Massey Ferguson tractor engine working at lower temperatures and pressures, but I cannot believe that rubber hose technology/manufacture in the 50s and 60s was significantly better than now. So why are modern ones failing?

Bobdog said:

Erm... you're obviously mistaking me for someone else ...

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No i didnt but at this point i want to apologise if i was rude... i can be a real schmuck from time to time cos i'm under a lot of stress lately

sierrafery said:

No i didnt but at this point i want to apologise if i was rude... i can be a real schmuck from time to time cos i'm under a lot of stress lately

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No problem mate, so am I so I'll bite more easily than I would normally. Myself and my family have been in a really shítty situation lately, due to no fault of our own, we're homeless and living at my mother in laws. Add to that a siezed turbo the day we moved out and a blown head gasket the following week! - (Despite regular maintenance!... ) things have been fairly stressful here as you can imagine...
Though we have just been offered a house, it's a bit too small but it's nice and its a roof over our heads so we're going to take it and make the best of it.