This is a good read, i have a similar issue with my 110. It stops fine but it could be alot better! I feeling I should replace the master

Land Rover brakes can and should feel powerful. I recently replaced my servo and put new seals into the master cylinder. My Mot brake effectiveness for the fronts afterwards was at almost 80% - close to my Volvo! The servo is easy to change - 30mins job.
 
just a further thought.... if i am using a pressure bleeder (putting fluid in at pressure throughout the reservoir), do i still need the engine running? Will the servo help in that situation?
 
As said above Ive had new callipers that have dry pistons and when pedal released the pistons go back in a tadge, enough to need two pedal pushes.
 
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Any chance the master cylinder got damaged while bleeding the brakes with the pedal?

Never happened to me but I believe if you extend the pedal past its normal length of travel while bleeding you can blow the seal in the master.
 
Land Rover brakes can and should feel powerful. I recently replaced my servo and put new seals into the master cylinder. My Mot brake effectiveness for the fronts afterwards was at almost 80% - close to my Volvo! The servo is easy to change - 30mins job.

absolutely aggree with this, they are a big caliper, twin piston setup made by a big brake manufacturer. they should be good as hell.
 
Thanks for all the help folks.

I went and bled the brakes (again!), but with the engine running. No further air came out of the lines, so i think it is indeed a 'new calliper syndrome'.

But why is this? Is it only a short term thing until the callipers settle in? Or would it be a different design which requires the adjustment to the servo rod?

I'll look to adjust the servo rod this week and hopefully that will solve the problem.
 

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