R

rickster30

New Member
Hi,

About to remove rear brake pipe to wheel cylinder, do I just unscrew each end? Will fluid just pour out/ any pressure to worry about?

Thanks
 
Fluid will leak out unless you clamp off the flexipipe at the back. I made up a blanking plug with a union nut and short section of brake pipe with the end crushed down.

You could try putting putting some cling film/plastic over the top of the reservoir to stop air getting in (think of putting your thumb over the top of a straw to it stays full of liquid).

G
 
just done my rear cylinders and brake shoes clamped flexi pipe easy enuff job really
self bled brakes with piece of pipe in a jar of fluid nipple open half a turn pumped brakes a few times tighten nipple up as good as new
 
Ok, clamped off brake hose no probs so no leaks, problem I have now is removing the cylinder. The two bolts holding it on will not budge, and to make matters worse they have sheared slightly meaning I can't get a grip on them with spanners etc!! Some help on removing them would be greatly appreciated.
 
Wait, what?

I am going to be the guy who says it - If you have to come on the internet and ask questions like this, you should not be working on the brakes of a car.

"Herp derp derp I know nothing about basic mechanical principles, yet this has not stopped me dismantling and screwing around with the one crucial, vital part of my car that can stop two tons travelling at 70mph."


Your first post says you are removing the brake pipe to the rear cylinder and you talk about unscrewing both ends of it.

Now you are removing the wheel cylinder? If you are just changing the wheel cylinder, then change the cylinder and leave the rest alone.

If the bolts holding the wheel cylinder have sheared off, then there is nothing else holding the cylinder except maybe some rust and the rigid brake pipe.

What did you clamp the flexi hose with? I have a vision of mole-grips screwed up as tight as you could get them......


As a minimum - and I mean MINIMUM - go and buy a Haynes manual.
 
dave21478 said:
Wait, what?

I am going to be the guy who says it - If you have to come on the internet and ask questions like this, you should not be working on the brakes of a car.

"Herp derp derp I know nothing about basic mechanical principles, yet this has not stopped me dismantling and screwing around with the one crucial, vital part of my car that can stop two tons travelling at 70mph."


Your first post says you are removing the brake pipe to the rear cylinder and you talk about unscrewing both ends of it.

Now you are removing the wheel cylinder? If you are just changing the wheel cylinder, then change the cylinder and leave the rest alone.

If the bolts holding the wheel cylinder have sheared off, then there is nothing else holding the cylinder except maybe some rust and the rigid brake pipe.

What did you clamp the flexi hose with? I have a vision of mole-grips screwed up as tight as you could get them......


As a minimum - and I mean MINIMUM - go and buy a Haynes manual.
Click to expand...

I have a proper clamp on the brake hose!
The bolts have NOT sheared off, they have slightly rounded off meaning the spanner cannot grip them to undo them, the pipe had to be removed as was corroded, and the union to the cylinder also, these were picked up on recent MOT failure, I do have a Haynes manual, my reason for asking the question was for advice on how best to remove the two bolts, now slightly rounded, so as to put on the new cylinder.

Thanks
 
What you have is steel bolts going into an alloy cylinder, they will more than likely be rusted in solid. The bolts are M6 thread size. If you can't remove them with grips, then either cut the heads off with a chisel or careful use of an angle grinder. make sure you apply copper grease to the threads of the new bolts.
You will probably find that the mating face of the cylinder and brake backplate are held together after removing the bolts-this is due to corrosion. Just give the cylinder a tap with a hammer and it will come free.
If you need to buy new bolts you will need qty. 4-M6 X 25 long hex. and 4-M6 spring washers. You will have to cut the bolts to the correct length.
 
rickster30 said:
I have a proper clamp on the brake hose!
The bolts have NOT sheared off, they have slightly rounded off meaning the spanner cannot grip them to undo them, the pipe had to be removed as was corroded, and the union to the cylinder also, these were picked up on recent MOT failure, I do have a Haynes manual, my reason for asking the question was for advice on how best to remove the two bolts, now slightly rounded, so as to put on the new cylinder.

Thanks
Click to expand...

The question you asked was whether fluid would come out.....


I stand by what I said - if you cant deal with two small bolts thats are stuck, you shouldnt be doing this.
 
dave21478 said:
The question you asked was whether fluid would come out.....


I stand by what I said - if you cant deal with two small bolts thats are stuck, you shouldnt be doing this.
Click to expand...

I appreciate what I said, and your response, removing bolts can be difficult if as in this case they are seized on, and thanks to irishrover for the advice.
 
Irishrover said:
What you have is steel bolts going into an alloy cylinder, they will more than likely be rusted in solid. The bolts are M6 thread size. If you can't remove them with grips, then either cut the heads off with a chisel or careful use of an angle grinder. make sure you apply copper grease to the threads of the new bolts.
You will probably find that the mating face of the cylinder and brake backplate are held together after removing the bolts-this is due to corrosion. Just give the cylinder a tap with a hammer and it will come free.
If you need to buy new bolts you will need qty. 4-M6 X 25 long hex. and 4-M6 spring washers. You will have to cut the bolts to the correct length.
Click to expand...

If I cut of the heads off surely they will be impossible to get out?
 
[quote I stand by what I said - if you cant deal with two small bolts thats are stuck, you shouldnt be doing this.[/quote]


I have to say my first thought on reading the opening of this thread if you need to ask how to do something with brakes then you shouldn't be doing it and I've got to agree with the quote above. :eek:
 
pretty much so, unless you chisel the heads off then drill the bolts out I suspect if you drill with a smaller drill bit than actual bolt size they will come out easier ,,,or replace the cylinders
I chiselled 2 of my bolts of cos I couldn't undo them but I was replacing the cylinder so I wasn't bothered the old cylinders went in the bin
 
Or something similar. Try hitting a socket on it if you can.

I take it your replace rear shoes aswell?
 
Would a nut splitter fit back there ?

What about using penetrating oil? Not WD40 bit real penetrating oil?

Drill the nut out?

What about using a claw foot wrench ?
 
I have left handed drill bits that are normally quite useful. Mind you, I have lots of get me out of **** tools
 
They are also in my get me out of **** draw in my toolbox. Used them quite a lot on the freelander
 
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