nobber

Well-Known Member
Anyone done one?
I have been considering it, buying a cheap engine off gay bay and rebuilding it.

A couple of thing's I thinking, re-bore or re-sleeve? Obviously if the bores are worn.

Crank re-grind, when would this be necessary?

Cam reground, also, necessary?

And when would thicker shells be necessary? Im thinking thicker mains when the crank is worn?
 
Crank regrind is only needed when the original is out of spec or has damaged bearing surfaces. You cant really check until the crank is out and then you need a good (accurate) micrometer to assess it. Thicker (oversize) shells are only needed if the crank has been reground, and the crank will be ground to match the shell size so that the running clearances are correct. Don't know if a cam regrind would be any better or cheaper than getting a replacement cam. If you are after a regrind to improve performance then I don't know how much improvement you will get as its not a 'sporty' engine to start with!
 
I'm considering rebuilding mine- been looking for a tdi but I'm struggling to find one. Then I'm thinking if the tdi needs a rebuild, add that to the cost of the engine and bits to convert its gonna add up- so maybe put that money to what I'll get for my 90 and buy a td5! Hahaha I think I might be being indecisive, or maybe not! :confused:
 
So regrinding the crank and cam shafts might not be necessary?
What about cam followers and bearings and all the gubbings down under the rods? Is there much point in delving into those?
 
Anyone done one?
I have been considering it, buying a cheap engine off gay bay and rebuilding it.

A couple of thing's I thinking, re-bore or re-sleeve? Obviously if the bores are worn.

Crank re-grind, when would this be necessary?

Cam reground, also, necessary?

And when would thicker shells be necessary? Im thinking thicker mains when the crank is worn?

ive built quite a few ,bores are nearly allways worn,its the big issue with pre tdi engines, you only fit liners if bores are already +40 ,bores are cut to piston size so you need them first ,unlike cranks which are ground to an exact size, so shells only come in a few sizes ie you allways used std unless crank is ground, you cant really re-grind cams theres not enough hard facing , a crank polish is best if journals arent too bad
 
So regrinding the crank and cam shafts might not be necessary?
What about cam followers and bearings and all the gubbings down under the rods? Is there much point in delving into those?

if you fit a new cam rolles want renewing too,and most likey brass followers and sleeves, whats the gubbings under the rods ?
 
So, if I bought all the bits from Turners, a complete bottom end rebuild including cam comes to 787 quid.


DESCRIPTION

QUANTITY

PRICE

COST

REMOVE


LFB500050 Spigot Bush x1 £1.10 £1.10

ERR 1630 Dowel Crankshaft to Flywheel x1 £2.03 £2.03

RTC 2993 Bearing Set Conrods x1 Choose Size: std £19.50 £19.50

RTC 2992 Bearing Set Mains x1 Choose Size: std £25.00 £25.00

RTC 2825 Thrust Washer
£3.99 £3.99

247583 Conrod Bush
£2.20 £8.80

RTC 6442 Piston Assembly

Choose Size: std
£58.00 £232.00

507829 Tappet Assembly
£18.45 £147.60

546799 Pushrod
£2.58 £20.64

ETC 7128 Camshaft
£59.00 £59.00

90519054 /5 Camshaft bearing Set
£19.50 £19.50

Oil Pump Kit
£55.00 £55.00

522745 Bush later type locking ring
£23.00 £23.00

STC 1559 Gasket Set Bottom
£39.32 £39.32
Subtotal £656.48
VAT £131.30
 
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you have not costed in the rebore.
If I was going to that expense would want to do cylinder head injectors and pump to get the full benefit of the work.
 
you might want stc3395 main bearings depending on eng number, bush 522745 isnt the part that wears ,the gear teeth are ,youd be better getting erc6139 ,and searching for better prices, rebore about £120-150
 
Interesting thread, I will keep an eye on your progress, I'm thinking of doing something similar on a spare engine I've got
 

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