02Disco2

02Disco2

Well-Known Member
Hi all (again)

Slowly getting there with the discovery, since buying it in "great condition" 4 weeks ago its had a new radiator, track rods, steering damper MAF, 2 window motors, front and rear ARB bushes and links, lots of oil and grease and battles with the crappy dealer that sold it to me. Live and learn eh!
Having never taken a spanner near a car in my life I'm learning a lot which is good fun if nit frustrating as I don't know as much as I'd like yet..

Which brings me to my next issue, the knocking from the rear (suspension?) when driving off road (woodland tracks).
It's not arb or links as they're new and I think from googleing (shame the search on this forum is still dead) that it could be watts link.

So, what's the best way to test for this and secondly if the arms need replacing to, where can I get these from or find the model numbers ?? I can't find them for anything at the moment so must be looking for the wrong thing, or do people only replace the bushes?

Thanks!
 
02Disco2 said:
Ouch!! Well if it is that I'd better figure out how I'm going to press the bearings in !!
Click to expand...

You're going to need some serious pressing kit for the bearings in the Watts Linkage. If you're not going to be doing the job regularly, I would advise that you get to know a local indie garage and get the complete linkage off the vehicle yourself then take it along with the new bushes and bearings to see what he can do for you if you cross his palm with the requisite amount of folding stuff.
 
brian47 said:
You're going to need some serious pressing kit for the bearings in the Watts Linkage. If you're not going to be doing the job regularly, I would advise that you get to know a local indie garage and get the complete linkage off the vehicle yourself then take it along with the new bushes and bearings to see what he can do for you if you cross his palm with the requisite amount of folding stuff.
Click to expand...
+1
 
I think you can get poly bushes for the watts linkage which would probably be doable without a press. I don't think the ride quality etc debate vs elastomer would be such an issue on the watts linkage.
 
I did mine today.

All 5 bushes totally shot.

I bought a 10T press especially for the job, which is a good job, as the most stubborn bushes took just over 6.5T to start moving.

Pressing the bushes in, on average, was a steady 2T of force.

I had a right game with the link arm bushes, if you do them yourself, make sure you put a leading edge/chamfer on them or you won’t get them in. And use cart loads of copper slip!
 
brian47 said:
You're going to need some serious pressing kit for the bearings in the Watts Linkage. If you're not going to be doing the job regularly, I would advise that you get to know a local indie garage and get the complete linkage off the vehicle yourself then take it along with the new bushes and bearings to see what he can do for you if you cross his palm with the requisite amount of folding stuff.
Click to expand...

may i ask what is it’s main purpose plse , is it to prevent body roll / assists the springs as it’s corners

is it the same as a panard bar which i think i’ve got on my disco

many thks
 
gstuart said:
may i ask what is it’s main purpose plse , is it to prevent body roll / assists the springs as it’s corners

is it the same as a panard bar which i think i’ve got on my disco

many thks
Click to expand...
same job as a panhard rod at the front to stop body moving sideways in relation to axle or vice a versa
 
jamesmartin said:
same job as a panhard rod at the front to stop body moving sideways in relation to axle or vice a versa
Click to expand...

ah, bless u for that :D

just quickly looked up the price of panard rods for mine and see the panard rods are £60 each , think mine are only fitted on the rears ?? , got me wondering now, lol

thks again
 
02Disco2 said:
Hi all (again)

Slowly getting there with the discovery, since buying it in "great condition" 4 weeks ago its had a new radiator, track rods, steering damper MAF, 2 window motors, front and rear ARB bushes and links, lots of oil and grease and battles with the crappy dealer that sold it to me. Live and learn eh!
Having never taken a spanner near a car in my life I'm learning a lot which is good fun if nit frustrating as I don't know as much as I'd like yet..

Which brings me to my next issue, the knocking from the rear (suspension?) when driving off road (woodland tracks).
It's not arb or links as they're new and I think from googleing (shame the search on this forum is still dead) that it could be watts link.

So, what's the best way to test for this and secondly if the arms need replacing to, where can I get these from or find the model numbers ?? I can't find them for anything at the moment so must be looking for the wrong thing, or do people only replace the bushes?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
to test get someone to rock vehicle hard whilst you feel each rod or link ,any worn part you will feel the play in it
 
gstuart said:
ah, bless u for that :D

just quickly looked up the price of panard rods for mine and see the panard rods are £60 each , think mine are only fitted on the rears ?? , got me wondering now, lol

thks again
Click to expand...
thought you had an independent suspension d3
 
jamesmartin said:
thought you had an independent suspension d3
Click to expand...

brian47 said:
I thought that too, at least independent on the front and a live axle on the back.
Click to expand...

my apologises guys , indeed have independent suspension front and back, the pair of bars i was talking about is on the back only,

if i turn my DSC off it puts the air valve blocks into cross over mode which makes the front and rear suspension act like a live beam axle
 
Last edited:
number 12 on the rear suspension pdf , adjustable transverse toe link

The cross-link valve provides a connection between the two air springs on the same axle. When de-energised, the cross- link valve prevents air passing from one air spring to another. When the solenoid is energised, the valve spool moves and allows air to pass from one air spring to the other. This increases wheel articulation and improves ride comfort at low vehicle speeds.

once again apologises guys for the confusion ,

will get my coat , lol

Rear

629271BF-389A-4576-826A-D684EA0E4305.png



Front


B4C9CBEB-9153-4DAC-96E6-625138375B33.png
 
gstuart said:
number 12 on the rear suspension pdf , adjustable transverse toe link

The cross-link valve provides a connection between the two air springs on the same axle. When de-energised, the cross- link valve prevents air passing from one air spring to another. When the solenoid is energised, the valve spool moves and allows air to pass from one air spring to the other. This increases wheel articulation and improves ride comfort at low vehicle speeds.

once again apologises guys for the confusion ,

will get my coat , lol

Rear

View attachment 149435


Front


View attachment 149436
Click to expand...
its what it says an adjustable link for wheel tracking ie 4 wheel tracking
 
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